In my experience, don't spend a lot of time trying to find or fabricate a 'limiter' for the decklid latch to prevent the thing from chipping paint on its corners. The forces involved are simply too large and none of the three different latches worked for me, so after fixing the chips on our '72 L, I added a rubber bicycle tire patch to each corner of the rain gutter, and let the sucker shake. That was 10 years ago; no chips yet....
quote:
Originally posted by DeMopuar:
DOES 200,

Do you know the source of the little rubber button that you have shown? Sources are good.....

Thanks,

Mark

Mark, the car came like that with the rubber. I have seen one other car with that set up. If Wilkinson is building your car, just request that be done, I am sure he can fabricate it, I would recommend that to anyone doing a restoration to weld in that small piece of metal and insert the rubber. It fits perfect when closing the decklid, and no hood shake.
DOES 200,

Can you take a photo of the rubber piece and the metal insert/ holder/ whatever is welded to the decklid? I have tried to explain this to Steve, but like most guys, myself included, I need photos -- of pretty much whatever it is.....

Anyway, if you could show the whole tamale here, that would be GREAT!!!!!!

Thanks,

Mark
quote:
Originally posted by DeMopuar:
DOES 200,

Can you take a photo of the rubber piece and the metal insert/ holder/ whatever is welded to the decklid? I have tried to explain this to Steve, but like most guys, myself included, I need photos -- of pretty much whatever it is.....

Anyway, if you could show the whole tamale here, that would be GREAT!!!!!!

Thanks,

Mark

Ha, dude, Group 4 is on my 4 post lift, but I will see what I can do. Here is a photo of the other car I saw the modification on in the link below. Not a real good photo but it seems he used felt on the metal piece instead of rubber. This freakin car I saw for sale in AZ was unreal, many aspects of the car I saw were like mine and since mine was built in AZ I figure maybe this is an AZ thing.
http://www.poca.com/index.php/gallery/?g2_itemId=5630
Yo,

Nice photos on the POCA site -- I took a look a while ago, but wow, nice collection of Group 4 and other nice cars with that link.

If you could show how the rubber piece is affixed on your car, that is all that I am looking at. I have seen Triumph TR-6's that have a similar thing on their front hood -- except instead of mounting on the engine cover, it would be a wedge of rubber mounted on the opening surrounding where the engine cover goes, kind of like the jamb of the engine opening. I wonder if something like that would work? Early 70 Mopars have a similar type of thing -- maybe able to be modified to work, it is just that the rubber "button" on your car does look pretty cool and obviously it works, so why reinvent the wheel?

Thanks again,

Mark
That car from Az that Jan showed was built by the owner. His name was Avo (not sure of the spelling but that was how it sounded and was pronounced) He owned a body shop in Phoenix, I think it was called Custom auto Body. He always put in some kind of detail to prevent scratching on the deck lid.Then Tom Bechtel bought the car and had another body shop that took care of the car. They even went to the car shows with him to make sure the car looked Perfect!
quote:
If you could show how the rubber piece is affixed on your car, that is all that I am looking at.

They are most likely simple rubber button bumpers that are pressed-in through a drilled hole, like these from Atlantic Precision:

http://atlanticprecision.net/index.php?id=58



Or they could be screw-in bumpers like these from McMaster Carr, but they would require a nut from behind:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#bumper-pads/=1jmf9n

quote:
I found a better idea on this same site. It involves taking out your tail lights and installing a hoodpin on each side. Let the pi go through the under side of the deck and it does not protrude through. It makes a perfect X brace under the decklid.

I have the hood pin modification. It is better than nothing.

However, if I was in full re-paint mode, I would go for the welded-in plate and the rubber bumpers.

Larry
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