Hi. My decklid is starting to separate from the frame and seem's like the it's a little loose and rattles over bump's. Has anyone experienced this or have a solution as to a good [neat] fix / repair?
THANK'S JOHN.
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I could joke around about putting machine screws thru the decklid and frame with some rubber washers...but I'm sure you wouldn't appreciate that too much.
Auto body shops have this black adhesive that mixes together as it travels down two twisting clear cylinders. It's like epoxy and dries hard like epoxy too, but it's black and kind of expensive, like $25 a tube I think, and the tube is just good for one use, it hardens and that's it for that tube. You may try MAPA Auto Body Store or any auto body jobber or even ask a body shop where they get that black epoxy like stuff. The tubes are about 12" long and look trick with internal clear twin winding small diameter cylinders.
I need to do that to my Pantera too, but if rattles bothered me when driving my Pantera, I'd be in a straight jacket, it makes a noise each time the frame twists, which is entering a driveway at an angle. My driveway.
If you find a internet link for the black epoxy stuff, can you post a link or make a referral please. That stuff seems to be what the original bodywork manufacturers use.
Auto body shops have this black adhesive that mixes together as it travels down two twisting clear cylinders. It's like epoxy and dries hard like epoxy too, but it's black and kind of expensive, like $25 a tube I think, and the tube is just good for one use, it hardens and that's it for that tube. You may try MAPA Auto Body Store or any auto body jobber or even ask a body shop where they get that black epoxy like stuff. The tubes are about 12" long and look trick with internal clear twin winding small diameter cylinders.
I need to do that to my Pantera too, but if rattles bothered me when driving my Pantera, I'd be in a straight jacket, it makes a noise each time the frame twists, which is entering a driveway at an angle. My driveway.
If you find a internet link for the black epoxy stuff, can you post a link or make a referral please. That stuff seems to be what the original bodywork manufacturers use.
I just did my repair/fix: didn't have that expensive mfg epoxy so I used clear silicon, pryied the lid apart slightly with two screwdrivers, forced the silicone in as far as possibble with the nozzle, smothed it in with my finger, removed the screwdrivers and wiped the area and screwdrivers clean, but left the clear silicon on my finger.
I think part of the problem is vibration cracking the hard mfg epoxy and it breaks out, so silicon will damp the vibration and prevent worsening of the deterioration/seperation of the deck and lid.
Let's shake hands. Oops, I forgot to wipe that silicone off may finger.
I think part of the problem is vibration cracking the hard mfg epoxy and it breaks out, so silicon will damp the vibration and prevent worsening of the deterioration/seperation of the deck and lid.
Let's shake hands. Oops, I forgot to wipe that silicone off may finger.
If you are able to gently separate the parts and can force in some high quality premiun construction adhesive the bond would be very good. It is not black, but it could probably be painted. I've used it for lots of things and it sticks better than silicone (if surfaces are clean) but it is not as flexible. I recommend that you do your own test on some scrap parts because it's a LOT harder to remove than silicone if you aren't happy with the results.
My solution as a remedy to the hood and trunck frame frame the sheetmetal panel was to use spray foam. In the construction industry this is becoming more and more useful. Since the bonding, and vibration properties are useful. Some are also fire proof. It will expand and then as it drys retract back to the desired form. Try it! After it drys you can break away the undesirable parts you dont want.