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'MJ' Oilite Sintered Bronze Pilot BEARING for Pantera 351C to ZF-2

SELF Lubricating. 20% Oil by Volume.

Absolutely NON-Magnetic at 90% COPPER see chart

Proudly Machined in the USA.

$125.00 USD Each. Shipping by Priority Mail in the USA is FREE!

NOTICE: Worldwide Shipping has Been Discontinued! NO Shipping Worldwide! Shipping to USA, Hawaii and Alaska, ONLY! You May Have Your 'Agent' IN The USA, Purchase Bearings with a U.S. Money Order. I will Mail to Their Address, and Your Agent can Ship Your Bearing to You. Thank You.

PM Me for Mailing Address to Receive Payments.

Chemical composition of various Oilite grades[1]
Copper [%]Iron [%]Graphite [%]Tin [%]Other elements (max.) [%]
Oilite87.2–90.51 max.0–0.39.5–10.51.0  Oil 20% by Volume
Super Oilite18–22Balance--2.0
Super Oilite 1618–22Balance0.6–1.0-

2.0 'Super Oilite' 80% IRON

Last edited by marlinjack
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OMG! DO NOT SAY BUSHINGS! That means that I am FOREVER BANNED! i SHOULD BE! I feel the urge to say it now...but I'm holding on...so far!



I have no issue that this is by far the BEST BEARING available anywhere. (I never said that it wasn't). It is also the BEST ENGINEERING SOLUTION to that part and likely the best, most accurately manufactured that can be made. So why argue?

Anyone who would suggest that it is out of round by just holding it in their hand, I would check THEIR credentials on. Seriously. What a dipshit!

Do we need to debate on the definition of round too?



Buy these now before there is another panty twisting incident! PLEASE!

You know who, doesn't often come to down to Earth and EVEN speak to just mortals like us none the less make an offer like this! It is absolutely inexplicable but do not question it.

I think that it is likely that the problem is now solved? So stop bitchin' over nothing.

BELIEVE IT!

Last edited by panteradoug

Is it not that a Bronze-steel Alloy pilot bushing not wearing out so fast as an all bronze bearing which is softer ?

On my race Mustang I use a Bronze - steel alloy bearing because the all bronze is wearing out fast , because the hard shifting on high rpm's, dual clutch aso. ,whit the result that my dual clutch dont came ,, free"

Now my bronze steel alloy bearing dont wear out and my input shaft looks  also good.

I am not a fan of roller bearings , when they failed there is always more damage on the inputshaft.

Dont want involved of this yes or no war , it's just my experience and want to share this.

Simon

@simon posted:

Is it not that a Bronze-steel Alloy pilot bushing not wearing out so fast as an all bronze bearing which is softer ?

On my race Mustang I use a Bronze - steel alloy bearing because the all bronze is wearing out fast , because the hard shifting on high rpm's, dual clutch aso. ,whit the result that my dual clutch dont came ,, free"

Now my bronze steel alloy bearing dont wear out and my input shaft looks  also good.

I am not a fan of roller bearings , when they failed there is always more damage on the inputshaft.

Dont want involved of this yes or no war , it's just my experience and want to share this.

Simon

AS I UNDESTAND IT, the caution here is that it is thought that the ZF input shaft is not hardened to the level of the Ford top loader.

A bronze oilite bearing is the best option.



Racecars all vary according to exactly what they are put through. Experience with each will tend to determine where additional changes need to be made.

While the drivetrain of a vintage Mustang (I have two) is as close as you can get to the Pantera, without being a Pantera, in this instance, there is a difference in the durability and therefore the engineering approach to the pilot bearing needs.



I don't think that any one really was debating that the ball bearing or pin bearing was better then oilite, they were suggesting other solutions that others with knowledge and experience are using as a possible solution to the unavailability of the oilite bearings?

You may read it differently? That's fine.



Ford has been using the oilite bearings seemingly forever? Considering the negative characteristics of the possible substitutions, I tend to agree here with the original Ford thinking. It is the right part for the application.

I think that has been illustrated well in these discussions?



I would think that if someone with a racecar is going in to the bellhouse for servicing the clutch and the clutch discs for wear much more then a street car would need, then the pilot bushings would likely need attention at that time as well?



To me, the new availability of Marlin's part solves the problem, at least for Panteras. Obviously it also has other Ford applications that it could be used for as well?

Everyone is going to make that selection based upon their own requirements but to me, the problem is solved, at least for now.

Last edited by panteradoug

Just a general reflection and above all without wanting to open any controversy.


When a soft material rubs against a hard material, it is often the hard material that wears more than the soft because abrasive particles can become embedded in the soft material and it then acts like a grinding wheel.
I don't know if this applies to the case of the pilot bearing because there must be abrasive particles in the environment.

@rene4406 posted:

Just a general reflection and above all without wanting to open any controversy.


When a soft material rubs against a hard material, it is often the hard material that wears more than the soft because abrasive particles can become embedded in the soft material and it then acts like a grinding wheel.
I don't know if this applies to the case of the pilot bearing because there must be abrasive particles in the environment.

All "bearings" wear.

In this case the bearing is self lubricating. It does not eliminate wear, but reduces it.

Ideally the lubricant absorbs the wear particles.



So far, there have not been any, or not many, input shafts that have shown the need to be resurfaced and bearings made undersized. If anything, it is the bearings that are showing the wear, which is the desired result.

It is essentially, "the fuseable link".



The rate of which the bearing wears is called the "bearing life".

In the situation of the Pantera we think of the life as around the life of the clutch assembly itself. That's all it needs to be.

Until someone invents or discovers a frictionless bearing, this design is more then adequate.

It works. "If it isn't broken...don't fix it".



There has been some discoloring of the input shafts shown. I acknowledge that. To me it is overheated lubricant solidifying. It generally cleans off which also seems to be an indication that the input shaft is hardened enough?

You don't want to harden the steel to the point at which it becomes brittle.



The concern with a lubricant here would be that it had enough quantity to contaminate the friction between the pressure plate, clutch disc, flywheel.

The oilite volume has proved to be it is right where it should be based upon the expected/desired life of the bearing.



I suppose anything is possible but empirical analysis has not shown that leaking lubricant out of the bearing, is any kind of an issue with the clutch itself. It's just the best solution to the situation so far.

A seal is just not needed and would be needless overkill with likely it's own issues?

It is just that the bearing needs to be changed at some point in the future, not the input shaft. It is the best solution. Not a perfect one.



Order two from Marlin so you will have a spare.

Last edited by panteradoug
@marlinjack posted:

...Because I DON"T FEEL Like It!!

I Got Your 'Expansion of the Shaft'!!! and You're a 'Professional BULLSHITTER'!!

The O Ring Must Rotate Freely with the Shaft Independant of The Bearing.

WHEN You Start Machining Your Bearings...You Can Machine Your Idea into it!

You Posed the Problem, I offered the Fix.

A 'Genius Engineer' from "The Best School in France", should realize that.

And Your Thoughts of imbedded Grit in the Bearing wearing out a 'Gear Hardened' Shaft, are BULLSHIT!!

A "Legend in his Own Mind!"

Folks, see what I Mean about this guy Following me around this Forum!

You need to Start your own thread, and stay the hell Out of mine.

I'am here to help with bearings...and you're all Talk and Theory.

...Maybe you can get a job running a Laundromat, somewhere!

Did you ever see the bearings in those washing machines? They look very similar to these "pilot bearings" in the Pantera! Funny you should mention that! No oilite though. Solid bronze. They eat up the unhardened shafts!

Last edited by panteradoug
@marlinjack posted:

...GOOD!! Show Me Your PROOF!

I'm Laughing at that guy!

To future Customers, I Appreciate Your Business! The Bearings are here when You Need them. For all others, they can  'Take It Or Leave It!'

MJ

I predict that you are going to need to hire more machinists to handle the orders.

These will fit all Ford small block applications with the Ford transmission and small input shafts.

You are now the ONLY source.

841 Bronze SAE - Sintered Bronze

-124 Products

Bronze SAE 841 is particularly noteworthy because it is a powdered metal. These are a special class of materials designed to be used in bearings. Where most of our materials are cast or wrought, powdered metals are first cast, then ground down into powder. This powder is then combined with oil and a binding agent and compressed under high heat to make a shape, typically round rod or hollowbar. Roughly 19% of the volume of the material is SAE 30 weight oil. As a machine using this bearing comes up to speed and temperature, a fine layer of oil sweats out of the bearing and coats the shaft, providing self-lubrication. When the machine is turned off and the bearing cools, capillary action within the bearing acts to absorb the oil back into the metal.

...2 More Oilite Bronze Bearings are Born! These are for Ken in Washington.vid cvid bvid evid f rejectsvid fvid g

The Row of Bearings sitting beside the Lathe are ALL REJECTS, from the 18 Years, Gone By! Either TOO Small a O.D. or TOO Big a I.D. Some as Less as 0.002" Off. They can be used to Machine Different Bearings.

The Gage is 0.67001" The Bore is 0.6715"

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...See! Marlin Makes Mistakes!

ONLY GOD is Perfect!! But He Gave Me the Skills to Strive to Be. I Never Thought to Sell Anybody a Bearing that I Would NOT Install in My Own Pantera! If it was Not (Nearly) Perfect, I would Just Start Over and Machine One to My Higher Level of Discipline. Hence All the Rejects...on Average, One Per Year.

In the Photos you can see the Yellow Oil that Oozes out of the pores During Machining.

Last edited by marlinjack
@forestg posted:

Can you make one that would fit the 429/460 crankshaft?

...I can Machine You a Bearing for Anything!! Just give me the Measurements of the Shaft* and the Counterbore Pocket of the Crankshaft! To the 0.001" *Are we talking for a ZF-2 Transaxle?? Got It! The Crankshaft Pocket should measure out to a 'Nominal' Size...such as 1.375" (1-3/8") for the 351 Cleveland. I put the Bearings .0050" Max. Over-Sized, so they 'Hammer' In, to Stay In!

Last edited by marlinjack

...Yes, give me the Crankshaft Pocket measure in your book. For the -2 Transaxle!! We are a Go!

Custom Machining Bronze Bar. $125.00* USD Shipping in USA is FREE. NO Worldwide Shipping.

Thank You,

Marlin

* Future Custom Machined LARGER Diameter Bearings, 2", will be $145.00 Due to the Increase Cost of Solid 841 Oilite Bronze Bars. The 351C to ZF-2, Oilite 841 Bearings will Remain at $125.00. All with the Shipping FREE.

Last edited by marlinjack

thumbnail [5)...Yes!! OfCourse I have One of these Bronze Bearings in My Own Pantera! It has been My Testbed for these, for Many Years! As yet, I have Never had to Replace the Original Bearing. It is so Smooth and Quiet, I just forget it's even there! I would say, I have Over 15,000 Miles On It. They are the Best They can Possibly Be!

Thank You,

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Last edited by marlinjack

...This was removed by Mistake. Should answer a Lot of Questions. Any other Questions Please ask. MJ

  PANTERA - GT40.  Oilite Bronze Pilot Bearing Installation Instructions. 351C to ZF-2

First: Clean the Snout of the Transaxle Input Shaft, and Test-Fit this Bearing onto the Transaxle Shaft. If the shaft is Free of Damage, burrs, dirt...the bearing will slide-on, Smoothly and with Precision. If the Finish on the Steel Shaft is Not 'Smooth to the touch', Polish It with 'Crocus Cloth' ONLY!  Polishing Cloth, The Finest Grit You can obtain.  
Next: Clean the Crankshaft Bearing POCKET, of all dirt rust Debris, OIL,  BUT Do NOT make it Larger!
The Bearing must be Hammered Straight in Square, and DRY. Use NO Lubrication! Using a hand held 'Sledge' hammer, Heavy!, NOT a Carpenters Hammer (too light). AND Using a block/piece of hardwood, IN BETWEEN the bearing and hammering...start the Bearing in Straight and True, There is a 6 degree Chamfer to help in Alignment. If it starts Crooked, STOP!! and pull it out and start again. Using the Wood on the Face of the Bearing...Hammer the Bearing Straight-In UNTIL Fully Seated, You'll feel IT and STOP! The Bearing will Protrude Aprox.1/4", It will NOT be Flush with the Crankshaft Flange.
Do NOT Hammer directly on the Face of this bearing. (You May see a 'Sliver' of bronze peel-off, this is to be Expected, as there is a .0050" 'Interference Fit'. .0025" Per side, This is Necessary to keep the Bearing In Place during Hard Shifting. Bronze is Very 'Slick'!)  If You Hammer Directly Onto the Face, You will Destroy any Chance of the Transaxle Shaft Sliding-In!!!. That's a Warning!! Here's Another and Be advised, if the Crankshaft IS Installed in the Engine...You are Also Hammering on the 3RD Main Thrust Bearing!!! GO EASY. It will Not Take a Lot of Force. Just before Bolting up the Trans, Smear 3 Drops of light oil onto the 'Transaxle Input Shaft Snout', At the bearing contact area. This is so the bearing does not start 'Dry'. Although...as Oilite wears/gets warm, a Thin Oil Oozes-Out of the Pores. DO NOT Carry it in your pants pocket, it will leave a Stain. Congratulations!! You have just 'Custom' Fitted a Bronze Bearing to Your 351 Cleveland Crankshaft!
There is a Specially Machined 'Inside-Chamfer' at the Lip of the Bearing. This Specific Angle Mates-Up with the Angle On the Snout of the Input Shaft. What It Does, It Kicks the Shaft Up Into Perfect Alignment. Just Slide the Transaxle Into Position, NO Surprises!!  
MJ 2019
NOTES:
1) '3 Drops' should be read as Just a 'Thin Smear' of 30 wt Motor Oil...Or Thinner!
2)Important!! The Chamfer on the Bores' Inside 'Lip' Points OUT, when Installing.
3)This Bearing WILL protrude from the Crankshaft Flange. it will not be Flush. It has been Machined Thicker Beefier, to Last Longer, And for added Stability.
Last edited by marlinjack

Marlin, FYI ... Isky makes solid roller lifters that, I assume, use similar bearing technology as you use in your pilot bearings. I purchased a set about ten years ago and they were problem free. They are expensive, however, they tend to not fail. Anyone who has ever had a needle bearing fail in a roller lifter, knows what happens to all those "free" needles. Isky keeps pretty quiet about the materials involved but they do say the bearing material has a 350% greater load rating than the needle bearings they use in other lifters.

Here's the only photo I could find.

ISKY

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...Thats Because ONLY ONE 'Needle' is Ever Taking the FULL Directed 'Centered' FORCE, at any One Moment, Theoretically!! Where-as The Bronze Takes The Full Load Spread-Over HALF of the Inner Diameter, at the Axle. Just Thinking Out-Loud, I could be Totally Wrong!

Very Interesting! I never knew of that Lifter! 350% More Load Bearing!?

Thanks for Posting This.

Last edited by marlinjack
@marlinjack posted:

...Thats Because ONLY ONE 'Needle' is Ever Taking the FULL Directed 'Centered' FORCE, at any One Moment, Theoretically!! Where-as The Bronze Takes The Full Load Spread-Over HALF of the Inner Diameter, at the Axle. Just Thinking Out-Loud, I could be Totally Wrong!

Very Interesting! I never knew of that Lifter! 350% More Load Bearing!?

Thanks for Posting This.

I think that you are 100% correct. It is a big advantage of this oilite type bearing and that is the weakness of the roller bearing. It does depend on the oilite material having the bearing (as in bearing the load) capacity necessary to take the load.

I've seen the roller (pin rollers) "cage" have problems as well.



The solid material will still tend to take the majority of the load at one point along the radius and will indicate overloading by cracking at that point. If it is too soft, it will just crumble.



There should be two engineering specs for the material determined by the manufacturers testing. Compression capacity and tensile (stretching) capacity. But you need to know the amount of the load being placed upon it.

In the case of the roller lifters that would have to be the spring pressure.



Bending capacity would generally be viewed as tensile strength that I am aware of.

Last edited by panteradoug

...I tried a Video today (8/28) This single Bearing Shipped Out Today, to 'Joe A.' The Bearings are Machined and Shipped, in Order of Receiving Payment.

The Bearing is Reversed and Spun with the Gage, Running True, Proving 'Zero Error Concentricity and Axial Alignment'. The Video won't load.gg lgg kgg jgg h

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Last edited by marlinjack

...Remove from chuck, reverse and re-chuck by 'Feel', with-out dialing-in, and have the Gage still run True...is a 'Near Impossibility'! It is Testament to the Accuracy of the Machine.

Also when the Oilite Bronze Heats Up and then, Cools, the Diameter Grows LARGER! Time Must be Taken to Let the Bearing Cool Down... and Cut to Finish, .001" at a Time.gg ggg fgg dgg a Before removing from the Chuck!

This Bearing went out to Joe A Today.

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to size but loose...Remember, a .001" Too Far, and the 'Work' is Junked. I'm posting a Picture of a Bearing that came out of My Pantera. It was the First I Ever Machined, and was Precise to the 1.3750" of the 351C Crank Pocket! It Installed Easily, But was Too Loose, and Spun in the Pocket. It DID NOT come out of the Pocket, until I pulled the Transaxle, to remove the Engine for Other reasons, and The Bearing was Hanging Off the Input Shaft! That is why, from the Second Bearing, (Now in My Car) On, I Machine the O.D.'s to 1.380".

The warn marks are at 1.3690", but the Un-Warn O.D. IS AT 1.380"...It Must have 'Grown' Somehow!! Testing the I.D. with the Gage, Fits, Spun Smoothly, but was a 'Little Snug'! The Cause of coming Loose in the Crank Pocket, and wearing Down. I Know I put it at 1.3750".

MJ

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Last edited by marlinjack

...Forest Ordered One of These. Pilot Bearing for His '460' to mate with the ZF-2 Transaxle. These are The Big Ones!

We have No Problem Machining Custom Bearings for You!. All we need, is the I.D. and O.D. (Shaft and Pocket) Measurements, Accurate to .001".

Who's Next??big9big10big11big4big6big8mic

$145.00 USD Shipping FREE

2" Oilite Bronze Bar, Tested NON-Magnetic

MJ

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Last edited by marlinjack

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