Dropped a valve...

quote:

Originally posted by No Quarter:
The cam is MME's proprietary cam, specs unknown...

I bought a shortblock from a racer with a "secret turbo cam" from a known builder. I called the builder and they said they didn't keep records on custom spec'd cams longer than 2 years. So I just sent it to compcams and they ran it on their cam doctor and $40 later I had the specs. Just an FYI.

> Dan, what about ramp rates and side-loading of the roller lifter with steep
> rates?

I don't understand your specific question.

Dan

Thanks Hustler, but over here in the underdeveloped Europe, I'm not sure where to find that.

I collected the head, the guy hadn't fixed that cylinder as agreed, he fixed the whole head, $$$. But it looks good. I've assembled the 6 valves I have.

Let me just summarize the ideas all you good people and some locals have for what went wrong:
-inferior valve quality
-inferior rocker quality
-too hard springs
-wrong adjustment of rocker
-wrong locks
-locks installed incorrectly
-rpm+++
-too steep cam profile
-faulty lifter
-oil passage to lifter clogged
-unspecified MME assembly or design flaw
-valve bounce
-rockers alu, should be steel
-any combination of the above

I've got some thinking to do...

quote:

Originally posted by No Quarter:
I've got some thinking to do...

Install a gas trubine engine

Status:
Head work done, so now only need a 6 lbs package from FedEx. I (MME) paid for having it delivered to me Thursday before 6pm. It didn't come. It arrived in Cologne Germany Wednesday, and they haven't managed to get it here yet. I called them to pick it up myself at the airport, but it's been put in a container together with packages for Sweden and Finland, and it's being shipped unopened through Denmark to Stockholm where the containerr will be opened and packages sorted, and my package will be back in Copenhagen Sunday, to be delivered Monday. Try drawing that route on the map, crazy! This means no parts for me in time unless I can find and hijack the truck on the E4 through Sweden. So no Pantera for me in Belgium

I'll get in contact with MME, they have to claim the freight cost back, that's all the compensation I get...

Thanks to all that have chimed in.

American engeneering:
100 ways and no solution.
It reminds a little bit to Microsoft Windows.....

quote:

Originally posted by No Quarter:
So no Pantera for me in Belgium

Too bad to hear that Mikael...

Is taking the Longchamp not an option then?

quote:

Is taking the Longchamp not an option then?

Yes, an Italian GT, built to cross the continent in style, speed and luxury, will do the trick. On Spa though, I would prefer the Pantera. And the countless hours in the unheated garage this winter preparing the Pantera, I had this trip in mind.

So now I have to get the Longchamp ready. Where's the nearest gasstation?

Hi Mikael!
Just discovered this thread and my heart sank as saw as I saw that it was you that started it. Very sorry to hear about this and I hope you get it running in time! But it is beginning to sound like the Longchamp is a safer bet. See you in Spa one way or the other I hope. If there is anything particular I can do to help, let me know - my number is in the phone book if you don't already have it.
Cheers, Tim.

So, back from Spa, and busy with the engine. It's now out of the car and totally disassembled and cleaned. Good news is that crank, cam and block look perfect.

Changing all bearings etc., again awaiting parts from the US, via FedEx. Come on guys, summers are short here

Just put the engine/gearbox in the car. I always wonder how many accessories you can put on it while it's out of the car. Here's what I got to.

Rear deck lid off, engine/gearbox balance to be 10-20 degrees tilting forward, headers laying ready (still connected to rest of exhaust), engine separated from car at 4 bolts going into block-not the one bolt:
-Alternator+bracket+damper+fan belt: yes
-A/C, don't know, left it in the car so not to have to refill
-distributor cap: no
-distributor: yes, but quite close, a little risky. I have a ½"x4" board protecting the rear window. But risky for the dist itself
-starter: yes
-oil filter: no
-fuel pump: no
-valve covers: yes
-hi rise intake: yes
-carb on top of that: no
-90 degree water pipe: I didn't put it on, maybe

Oil FIlter & Fuel Pump - Yes

quote:

Oil FIlter & Fuel Pump - Yes

If headers are still attached to the rest of the exhaust, I think no.

...then again, getting the fuel pump on was the most painful experience today, so I might try "yes" next time. Main reason it was to difficult was that I have a scissor lift, painful to work on the middle of the car.

Engine ran today, let it heat up. Tomorrow I'll change oil and adjust it, and maybe drive it.

A small Ford vs Chevy question: I haven't been able to assemble and install a Cleveland yet without breaking at least 3 bolts and ruin one thread. Never ever happened in my Chevy days. Non-flame comments welcome

Took it for a drive today, works fine, kept it below 3000.

Just to make sure I didn't start to relax, something else failed. I for once had the headlights up, to avoid any cops since I drove w/o engine plate and seat belts. Now they won't come down. Anything obvious to check? I haven't worked on that end of the car...

Check the limit switches at the motor plate.

MIkael. if Forest's suggestion re limit switches didn't work, the headlights themselves get power from one wire while the headlight motor gets its up/down power from a separate wire that attaches to a lug on the headlight switch. I've had that wire pop off its spade-lug...

Jack would be correct if the headlights would not come up but power is removed from this wire to close them. If not the limit switch then it could be fuse 10 or maybe a broken plastic gear in the mechanism.
Forest

Fuse 10 also protects the heater/ac blower, ac compressor, and ac condenser fan. If any one of those work, then the fuse is good.

In very rare cases, the headlight door motor relay can be stuck. Cycle the headlight switch (with the key on) and listen for the the relay's click.

John

quote:

Check the limit switches at the motor plate.

Cleaned all the terminals, now it works

I'll stop posting on this thread now, the subject has bad memories for me...