Dry Sump Oil System Upgrade? How? What Parts?

Larry,

I've never done a dry sump system myself, but besides the oil pan you will need an external belt driven pump, and an external resevoir to hold the oil (and hoses/fittings to connect it all together). Good luck, I'm sure you'll do it well.

Michael

Thanks Michael, i'm still trying to learn the benifits and the idea of a dry sump system.

So my understanding has been, that it would benifit by allowing the engines to be mounted lower to lower center gravity, and then the engine woudln't be starving from oil due to high corning forces... and hmm that the oil is always being pumped up and fed into the engine? Doesn't a regular enigne does that as well?

As for the belt driven pump, is it a speical type of pump designed to pump oil for a dry sump system? And does anyone know of a company that sells them? or better yet,. a electric driven one?

And the external reservoir, information on this?

Best Regards,
Larry

Larry,
As an addition to the benefits you stated there is also a big benefit from negative crankcase presure. This will help ring sealing and free up some horsepower. In a pump with more stages you would add a scavenge pickup from the lifter valley area which keeps excess oil from pooling in this area. You might also need a seperate remote oil filter and depending on what tank you get you might also need a breather tank. The reservoir tanks are typically cylindrical , baffled and range anywhere from around a gallon to bigger than 5 gallons capacity. As far as the external pump they are specially designed for oil systems. There are two types that I know of; gear pumps and gerotor pumps. Gear pumps are the most common and but are less efficient and will aerate the oil more. Gerotor pumps are more efficient but also typically more expensive. There are a few companies that supply these pumps. Peterson, Barnes, Aviaid are good places to start though they are not the only ones. You will need to decide how many pump stages you will need for your application and you will also need a drive system (ie. Belts,pulleys,brackets)which can be expensive. Be prepared to spend a bit of $$$$ to do it right. Good luck with your project.

Blaine

Larry, go to a site called Corner Carvers and look in the engine tech forum. Do a search for dry sump.It will provide you with hardcore tech info by hardcore racers.

Danno

Larry.
I can not comment on the Dry Sump story but was just recently faced with the same problwm / querie. What to do about the 351C oiling problems, discussed fully at length by lumenaries such as 'Prof' Jack del Rich /and the 'Mad Swede'Goran on this very forum. Look under 'search.'
And yes, all mentioned above by our learned friends is absolutely correct. Dry sump IS the way to go. If you are going to spend a lot of time on the Race Track. Pulling heavy G's around the turns, running big rubber and power.....The dreaded oil-surge or should I say scourge,... will raise its ugly head and u WILL run your bottom end dry enough to force u into a rebuild eventually. Not a nice sound to the ear I am afraid....nor to the pocket book.
My solution has been to go a much easier and cheaper,(not nessesaryly better.....)route.
10qrt. properly baffled-sump with relocated oil pick up combined with one of CANTON's ACCUSUMP oil-presurized kits. Awesome. Looks great and works a treat. Ask the Rally Boys,- they swear by them.- ( friend of mine who just built my new motor does the tough Kenya Rally here in good old Africa every year, says he gets at least an extra season of racing in, with out any motor rebuilds due to this fiendish device....)- presurized oil immediately on start up every time, and pumps oil under presure from the oil resivior/cylinder to the bearings when u need it, --going thru the turns....
Canton sells various sizes and i must tel u the one for my Pantera cost me $148.00.from Hall Pantera. - Cant be bad. Thats with out the fittings, pipes and gauge, but u could put that together urself, one time....
Canton of course supply the lot,( also the Pantera vendors like ur very own P. I. which have provided us all with this quite incedible WebSite. Isnt it just the best!)...which I have just instaled on my Pride and Joy: a full-on copy of one of the six factory racing Pantera Grp4's built.
I would love to hear Jack's opinion on going this route compared to the Dry Sump,- better but much more expensive.
Hey Jack ? Goran ?
If u are interested in seeing pics of my Grp 4 with the 180 degree exh. and 4x IDA Webers etc. plse look on this Forum under ALAN B's posting awhile back ; "180 Degree Headers."
Or E-Male me on taiandagna@mweb.co.za & I'll Jpeg them to u.
If P.I. will tolerate more of my pics on this Forum I will post pics of my 'new look' Grp 4 now with the ACCUSUMP system plumbed in plus full 3-noozle HALON Fire Suppresion (an absolute essential bit of, not expensive gear /insurance.. see a few P.I. Newsletters ago...total 'burn- down' on the poor guys maiden-run, just rebuilt Pantera....i could cry.)
Also have just fitted Carbon Fibre lite-weight race, fully vented rear deck lid....
Wicked. - weighs a whole bunch less than the std. one and lets the hot air out big time...

Let us know how u go with this interesting dilema Larry.
tai.