Dynamat

When I applied Dynamat in 2511, I got down to the metal floor, removed any loose paint and then covered with a high solids paint similar to POR 15.

I then applied a coat of thermal insulating paint similar to “lizard skin”

I applied a single layer of Dynamat to the floor area, and double layers of Dynamat on the center tunnel and engine firewall, as both of these are a large heat source.

I also added one 12 x 24 piece of Dynamat to the inside of each door, which made a very noticeable difference to the sound made while closing the door. Much more of a solid closing sound.

Larry

Larry

what areas did you not put Dynamat or carpet jute one (left metal)

did you go up around the shifter?

there was fiberglass batting in the tunnel below the shifting rod, was this normal or was this a rats nest? Did you replace that with anything ?

Hi Dan

I searched for pictures but did not really take any of the dynamat install. Sorry!

My cabin floor was finished internally in a heavy coating of red oxide paint,.

I covered the floor and the upright sides of the tunnel with a single coat of Dynaliner , and wrapped the rear firewall and footwell area as far as practicable to the midline  . I considered doing the doors but decided against it due to the additional weight ,  but note Larry's positive comment. The clearances inside the doors to the mechanisms are tight so you would have to carefully choose the location for any matting.

All of the floor areas were also covered with a 12mm Dynaliner foam matting, under the carpet, in addition to the single layer of Dynamat .  The rear firewall area was covered with a 3mm Dynaliner over the Dynamat  and I also adhered  3mm Dynaliner directly to the roof metal by itself under the roof lining.

The Dynamat has the potential  of coming loose if  adhered directly to the underside of the roof and its a very hot day . In addition its too heavy to want to put it up high anyway and not required  IMHO.

I cant say its quieter, as I don't have a before experience to compare it to, as 6997 was not running when I got it .

All I can say is its still pretty loud in the cabin but is significantly quieter than standing outside , as at least you can talk to another person if your inside the cabin. No chance outside !

There appears to be no floor or roof resonance to speak of now this has been done .

There was a post a while back about someone who used a 3/8 inch piece of rigid foam to fix their headliner to, and that tucked up into the edges, forcing the foam up against the contour of the roof.

It seems this approach would provide some amount of noise deadening.  I don’t have any direct experience, but I agree with the concern of the heavy Dynamat not being able to permanently adhere to the roof.

Whatever was stuffed into the tunnel underneath the shifter is not factory, as far as I know.

in addition to the Dynamat I also installed an aluminized foil heat barrier on the tunnel and the firewall

Larry

Thanks Larry and others

I’m installing the sound deadner and the Upolstery guy is going to install MLV +foam on the floors and tunnel if there is room, where the MLV won’t fit double foil backed carpet jute will go.

what about the fire wall under the pedals, is this just carpet? I remember the gas pedal didn’t have a lot of travel, only drove her a few times before she came apart so I don’t know.

wont get the roof till down the road

at a later date during reassembly of 2511 after the collision damage, I fully covered the roof of the cabin with Dynamat

getting anything to stick to the roof will require time, patience and a lot of drop cloths as you remove the remnants of the OEM foam-backed headliner material

after mechanically cleaning the roof you will then want to use a solvent to remove remnants of the OEM foam and adhesive

like others, I had concerns about the Dynamat losing adhesion due to the exposure to full sunlight heat

Prior to installing the Dynamat to the roof I used my heat gun to warm the Dynamat and also to warm the roof, figuring the heat would improve adhesion

I spent considerable time using a roller to firmly press each piece in place prior to installing the next piece

I chose a foam backed modern headliner material to replace the OEM headliner, and used 3M spray adhesive to attach it to the Dynamat

this was probably two years ago, car has spent many hours at shows and on the road in full California sunlight and there is no evidence of sagging anywhere on the headliner

As for the Dynamat on the doors I used a 12“ x 24“ piece, cut in half for better manageability. Again I used my heat gun to improve adhesion and I have had no signs of anything loosening

Larry

Thanks Larry - good to know it can be done. After the dynaliner install I procured some snake bite pattern vinyl from Alpa which is exactly the original roof vinyl .  I secured the vinyl with spray adhesive  to a carefully cut piece of corflute plastic which was then arched in tight under the the foam covering  the roof . The edges were then secured with the trims . It has not moved . But it is removable if I wanted to run a wire.

It also performs well in heat and it is really light.

BTW Larry - love the Caution sticker -dont open windows in excess of 150MPH......!

There is another product that can be applied over Dynamat and it is called Noico Red 150 mil (4 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sq.m) Liner Car Heat and Sound Insulation.  You can see details at the link below.  Does anyone have experience with it?

https://noico.info/products/no...of-sound-insulation/

Thanks Steve, I just ordered it..  cheap… I’m going to use it on the tunnel and vertical sections. MLV on the floor boards