Anybody recognize that these junction blocks are used by any other car ? Thanks again--Lee
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Yes, for what I know all Mangusta's use those blocks l+R taillights
Simon
Simon
deniscCaretaker of 8MA1244 '70 Euro Mangusta DRIVE THEM, THEY WERE MEANT TO BE DRIVEN, IF YOU WANT TO LOOK AT ONE, BUY A POSTER!
Lee, They are a factory item on the Mangusta. Have you inquired with the Maserati Ghibli guys as the Mangusta and Ghibli were built on the same assembly line.
Denis
Denis
Panteras also use the black to connect the ignition switch. On the early pushbutton Pantera I replaced the turn signal switch on, two were used to connect to the harness.
And, speaking of the Maserati Gibli, I also saw this block used on one being restored in a shop I was touring.
And, speaking of the Maserati Gibli, I also saw this block used on one being restored in a shop I was touring.
Do NOT re-use that connection block! The screws grind directly into the wire strands, breaking many of them. This creates resistance, and heat, and a fire hazard. I've seen a number of the blocks half melted, along with the wire insulation of the attached wires, due to heat from resistance. Mine was this way.
Get a new terminal strip from Pantera Electronics.
http://www.pantera-electronics.com/isc.htm
This terminal strip/block has actual metal pads that clamp the wire when the screws are tightened so you don't break the wire strands. It makes for a much more secure connection - physically and electrically!
Get a new terminal strip from Pantera Electronics.
http://www.pantera-electronics.com/isc.htm
This terminal strip/block has actual metal pads that clamp the wire when the screws are tightened so you don't break the wire strands. It makes for a much more secure connection - physically and electrically!
Hi Garth, if you want to stay original a good way to make sure you don't cut through the wire strands is to solder the wire ends it makes a soft but solid base for the screw to bed itself in.
Richard.
Richard.
Oh and while I remember, a great way to clean the wire strands before soldering if they are oxidised is to fan the strands out then gentle heat them with a flame and then while still hot dip the wire into plumbers flux, they come out like new! Sorry if you all already know this.
Richard
Richard
Plumbers flux and electronic flux are not the same.
Plumbers flux is an acid while electronic flux is rosin.
Plumbing flux is generally not advised for use in electronic applications due to its greater susceptibility to corrosion of the connection.
My 2¢
Larry
Plumbers flux is an acid while electronic flux is rosin.
Plumbing flux is generally not advised for use in electronic applications due to its greater susceptibility to corrosion of the connection.
My 2¢
Larry
Good to know but i used for cleaning purpose only does this still cause a problem?
I have known about this for many years. However, I did Google the subject prior to posting and like many things there appear to be two sides to this story, also.
It may just be a "potential" for additional corrosion that doesn't actually materialize in real world experience.
I would venture that using plumbers flux as a cleaning process as you do may not create any issues.
However I would STRONGLY suggest never using an acid core solder for electrical work. Make sure you have a rosin core solder for electrical connections.
Larry
It may just be a "potential" for additional corrosion that doesn't actually materialize in real world experience.
I would venture that using plumbers flux as a cleaning process as you do may not create any issues.
However I would STRONGLY suggest never using an acid core solder for electrical work. Make sure you have a rosin core solder for electrical connections.
Larry
quote:if you want to stay original a good way to make sure you don't cut through the wire strands is to solder the wire ends it makes a soft but solid base for the screw to bed itself in.
Excellent idea Richard! I hadn't thought of that.
quote:a great way to clean the wire strands before soldering if they are oxidised is to fan the strands out then gentle heat them with a flame and then while still hot dip the wire into plumbers flux, they come out like new!
Another great tip!
Thanks!
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This terminal strip/block has actual metal pads that clamp the wire when the screws are tightened so you don't break the wire strands. It makes for a much more secure connection - physically and electrically!
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This is the nicest option, with the metal pads inside the clamp..
These blocks where build for SOLID wire in the first place, and that is where they are used for i.e. House wiring set up. They are NOT ideal for car wireing.
To solder the car wire (which is build up by severall thin Cu wires in NOT A GOOD IDEA, as the solder material will creep under pressure fomr the screw, hence loosening the wire, bad contact.
Good is to cover the leads with a bushing (see picture)
This terminal strip/block has actual metal pads that clamp the wire when the screws are tightened so you don't break the wire strands. It makes for a much more secure connection - physically and electrically!
------------------------
This is the nicest option, with the metal pads inside the clamp..
These blocks where build for SOLID wire in the first place, and that is where they are used for i.e. House wiring set up. They are NOT ideal for car wireing.
To solder the car wire (which is build up by severall thin Cu wires in NOT A GOOD IDEA, as the solder material will creep under pressure fomr the screw, hence loosening the wire, bad contact.
Good is to cover the leads with a bushing (see picture)
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All good information, but it just seems to me that in replacing the terminal block you would want to replace it with something more appropriate for the job i.e. 30A fully insulated/covered junction box or auto specific connector/socket?
Julian
Julian
quote:Originally posted by Mat_G:....
Good is to cover the leads with a bushing
I thought I knew most electrical terminals, but that is a new one for me.
would you have a "name" for that one?
edit...never mind, i found them
"Twin Entry Wire Ferrules"
quote:it just seems to me that in replacing the terminal block you would want to replace it with something more appropriate for the job i.e. 30A fully insulated/covered junction box or auto specific connector/socket
True. In hindsight, I probably could/should have replaced the junction block with a Molex type connector. Although I have no doubt that the terminal block I used will fare better than the half melted original terminal block.
Just as Joe had never heard of twin entry wire ferrules, I also had no experience with them and I am a retired inside wireman.
As usual the Internet and YouTube comes through to provide why we Yanks have never heard of them. These are quite common (generally required) in Europe and in Asia, but USA manufacturing requirements do not require their use on our products.
Here is a link to a YouTube video that makes things much clearer.
https://youtu.be/os66cID30Ek
Larry
As usual the Internet and YouTube comes through to provide why we Yanks have never heard of them. These are quite common (generally required) in Europe and in Asia, but USA manufacturing requirements do not require their use on our products.
Here is a link to a YouTube video that makes things much clearer.
https://youtu.be/os66cID30Ek
Larry
not to spoil the diskussion..
as I rebuild 4907 everthing which might get splashed by water (if ever) is set up by AMP super Seal. This is high end car stuff.
Should be avaialbe in the US.
They come in different desings vom 1 to 8 conections, and support 0.75 - 1.5 or 1.5 to 2.5 mm*2 wires. connector is fully water protected. One uses either the yellow seals or the red seals dependen on diamter of wire..
as I rebuild 4907 everthing which might get splashed by water (if ever) is set up by AMP super Seal. This is high end car stuff.
Should be avaialbe in the US.
They come in different desings vom 1 to 8 conections, and support 0.75 - 1.5 or 1.5 to 2.5 mm*2 wires. connector is fully water protected. One uses either the yellow seals or the red seals dependen on diamter of wire..
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That looks like a Delphi Weather Pack connector. If I'm not mistaken, they are the state-of-the-art in automotive electrical connectors.
just keep it simple, use the original connection blocks , only clean them.
Use WD40 or spray vasoline to protect the wiring connection.
never a problem whit doing it this way.
Simon (from the wet The Netherlands)
Use WD40 or spray vasoline to protect the wiring connection.
never a problem whit doing it this way.
Simon (from the wet The Netherlands)
That connector is not a Weather Pack. Similar in shell appearance but thats about it. The weatherpack stuff certainly beats the original connection types but is by no means superb quality. The pins are fairly loose in the housings which can sometimes make connection difficult. The AMP super Seal connector Mat pictured is much higher quality. You do have to be careful of current rating of the connectors. Flowing full current through some connectors will cause heat issues as well. Best option for the wires off of the ignition switch, relays.
I second the tinning method! Worked wonders on the connections for ALL the lights and such on my Goose! These are a "clamp" style as was pointed out....
I found almost exact terminal blocks at an electronics store. Cut to fit number of connections you need! I forget how many connections actually come on the huge block.....but it was a lot.
I'm still using my original blocks just fine. Of course if yours are corroded, replacement would be a good thing!
Cheers!
Steve
I found almost exact terminal blocks at an electronics store. Cut to fit number of connections you need! I forget how many connections actually come on the huge block.....but it was a lot.
I'm still using my original blocks just fine. Of course if yours are corroded, replacement would be a good thing!
Cheers!
Steve
I recall that the ends of the wires had been dipped in hot solder, then, after cooling, inserted in the small hole in the block. The screws were then tightened down.
DICK RUZZIN
DICK RUZZIN
Dick,
What you describe is "tinning".
I found one side of my car "untinned" and the other side tinned....!!!!
50ish year old hand made Italian cars.....go figure!
Ciao!
Steve
What you describe is "tinning".
I found one side of my car "untinned" and the other side tinned....!!!!
50ish year old hand made Italian cars.....go figure!
Ciao!
Steve
I know this is an old post......but wanted to illustrate the different sizes of junction blocks that are available.....from my collection! My recent post of "parts for sale list" knocked the cobwebs off of this issue!
In the pic's there are three blocks, the middle one I believe, is the original GOose block for one of the turn signal assy's. Like I mentioned, I found something VERY similar......but apparently used or gave the rest away...... haven't completely unpacked anything in the shop....so chances are good.....they will be found, if they exist.
I can also stop by the electronics store and check out their inventory!
Sizes listed are the width in pic 1. In second pic, where the blocks are on their sides, the dimensions do not apply, BUT you can see the difference in the sizes of the holes!
I believe that a Pantera ignition switch might take the larger of the three blocks here! There are some good sized perhaps #10 stranded wires on some of those connections! This large hole block would be too big for the simple light wiring circuits.
As I look more closely at the large one on the right, I can see where this does NOT have the little shields in the holds to prevent the screws from shredding the stranded wire. I believe this to be for solid copper wire......or better applied perhaps?
Upon closer examination, it might appear that NONE of these three blocks has the little tab designed to protect stranded wire damage.
Go figure! Gotta swing by the surplus store now!!!
Steve
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FWIW, I usually solder the ends of stranded wires before inserting them in any kind of screw clamped blocks.