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Do NOT re-use that connection block! The screws grind directly into the wire strands, breaking many of them. This creates resistance, and heat, and a fire hazard. I've seen a number of the blocks half melted, along with the wire insulation of the attached wires, due to heat from resistance. Mine was this way.

Get a new terminal strip from Pantera Electronics.
http://www.pantera-electronics.com/isc.htm


This terminal strip/block has actual metal pads that clamp the wire when the screws are tightened so you don't break the wire strands. It makes for a much more secure connection - physically and electrically!
I have known about this for many years. However, I did Google the subject prior to posting and like many things there appear to be two sides to this story, also.

It may just be a "potential" for additional corrosion that doesn't actually materialize in real world experience.

I would venture that using plumbers flux as a cleaning process as you do may not create any issues.

However I would STRONGLY suggest never using an acid core solder for electrical work. Make sure you have a rosin core solder for electrical connections.

Larry
quote:
if you want to stay original a good way to make sure you don't cut through the wire strands is to solder the wire ends it makes a soft but solid base for the screw to bed itself in.


Excellent idea Richard! I hadn't thought of that.

quote:
a great way to clean the wire strands before soldering if they are oxidised is to fan the strands out then gentle heat them with a flame and then while still hot dip the wire into plumbers flux, they come out like new!


Another great tip!

Thanks!
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This terminal strip/block has actual metal pads that clamp the wire when the screws are tightened so you don't break the wire strands. It makes for a much more secure connection - physically and electrically!
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This is the nicest option, with the metal pads inside the clamp..

These blocks where build for SOLID wire in the first place, and that is where they are used for i.e. House wiring set up. They are NOT ideal for car wireing.

To solder the car wire (which is build up by severall thin Cu wires in NOT A GOOD IDEA, as the solder material will creep under pressure fomr the screw, hence loosening the wire, bad contact.

Good is to cover the leads with a bushing (see picture)

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All good information, but it just seems to me that in replacing the terminal block you would want to replace it with something more appropriate for the job i.e. 30A fully insulated/covered junction box or auto specific connector/socket?

Julian
quote:
it just seems to me that in replacing the terminal block you would want to replace it with something more appropriate for the job i.e. 30A fully insulated/covered junction box or auto specific connector/socket

True. In hindsight, I probably could/should have replaced the junction block with a Molex type connector. Although I have no doubt that the terminal block I used will fare better than the half melted original terminal block.
Just as Joe had never heard of twin entry wire ferrules, I also had no experience with them and I am a retired inside wireman.

As usual the Internet and YouTube comes through to provide why we Yanks have never heard of them. These are quite common (generally required) in Europe and in Asia, but USA manufacturing requirements do not require their use on our products.

Here is a link to a YouTube video that makes things much clearer.

https://youtu.be/os66cID30Ek

Larry
not to spoil the diskussion..
as I rebuild 4907 everthing which might get splashed by water (if ever) is set up by AMP super Seal. This is high end car stuff.
Should be avaialbe in the US.
They come in different desings vom 1 to 8 conections, and support 0.75 - 1.5 or 1.5 to 2.5 mm*2 wires. connector is fully water protected. One uses either the yellow seals or the red seals dependen on diamter of wire..

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