Electromotive crank trigger wheel and pick-up install

This is my way of mounting the MSD crank trigger, not much room.

… I have the same wheel mounted on My Cleveland.

Your Pick-Up is mounted properly. I would Remove the 3/4" spacer to bring the Crank pulley Back into alignment, and take a angle grinder and grind the waterpump interference into Clearance. There Is NOT Going to be an abundance of 'Room', for anything on these Panteras! That Timing Wheel clears the Lower Coolant hose by Only 1/8", on My Set-Up!  If this, then, puts the pick-up MOUNT into Interference with the Shown Fan-belt...take a Hack-Saw and Cut the Mount Back!! If you prefer a 'Finished' Look, cut it off on a Milling Machine, as I Did! I had to Modify the pick-up Mount.  MJ

…Just A Suggestion, You don't have to do this, to make the above Work. This would be a Great Time to change over to the 'SACC RESTO', Overdrive WP Pully (Smaller). 

I see the main problem now, my wheel is just too large. I believe it is the Electromotive Ford 4 bolt 7.25".  As you can see in the photo it would hit the bolt below the hose connection if I removed the spacer. They appear to have a Ford 3 bolt that is 6.5". Perhaps that could be drilled to match the 4 bolt pattern?

So trigger wheel aside, what did you do for belt alignment? I have a set of spacers to move out the water pump pulley but the AC/ Alt. belt would need to move forward an 1/8". I could slot the holes in the stock bracket to move that unit forward but I would still have the stock idler pulley location and I was going to add the AC idler pulley that would also need to be shimmed forward. Or if somebody makes a crank pulley that has an 1/8" less 'stick-out' that would be a nice solution too.

I was thinking about picking up that smaller water pump pulley so thanks for the recommendation.

John

...Spacer the Pulleys? Perhaps.

Here's what to do:

Remove the Bolt that is in the way, 'Spot-Face' the Boss, Down with a Piloted Counterbore. Because this is a 'Piloted' Counterbore, You can Machine it with the WP still mounted and in the Car. Use a 1/2" Hand-Held Drill MOTOR. Mill the Boss, Down to Achieve clearance, being careful Not to break through the Jacket! 

Next, CounterSINK, the Bore, deep enough to seat a New Bolt. Install a Grade 8 'Countersunk-Flathead' Allen Head Bolt of the Proper Dia., Thread and (decreased) length. Be Very careful if You go this route, as Tightening the CounterSINK Bolt TAPER, can split the Aluminum.

OR, You can, perhaps, spot face deep enough to use the same Hex Bolt. 

Job Done!

MJ

P.S.    Yes!  You can Re-Machine From 3 to 4 Holes. You'll need a Rotary Table or an Indexer, Center with a Dial Indicator, find the Exact Bolt Circle, A go to town with the proper size drill bit... every 90 Degrees. The Experienced will First Center-Drill the Position Before Drilling. This Helps Prevent the Drill Bit from Walking off-Center. "When the Bore Starts Straight, It will End Straight!"

Keep it Balanced by NOT Using Any One of the Existing Holes, I.E. You will end with 7 Holes!!

This will be My last Reply on this matter.

Marlin,

You are a gentleman and a scholar!

Thank you,

John