Emergency Brake Cable

There is no adjustment in the center, only at the two ends.

The center is just a pulley that moves forward and back when the brake handle is pulled.

You should have two jamb nuts (#3 on the diagram) on the threaded end fittings at each of the rear calipers.  To take the slack out, you would have to push the metal threaded sleeves (#4) away from the calipers, and then tighten the sleeve (#4 & #6) with the jamb nuts.

There might be a way to shorten and recrimp the cable, but I wouldn't want to do that, and you probably don't need to anyway.

Looks like another difference between the Mangusta and Pantera...  at least according to the diagram.  

I think the Jamb nuts on the rear can be a point to take slack out.  Just wanted to get input from other Mangusta peeps.

Thanks

MH

The Mangusta doesn't have the rod #17, it has a long cable which is what is too long on mine.  I have a few ideas but need to get the car up on jack stands to check it out.  There is also a plate in the frunk I need to remove to get to the front end.  Surely one (if not both) can be adjusted.

Wish me luck !!!

MH

Sorry - I neglected to note this was in the "Mangusta Tech" section....

Oops!

No worries, the back half of your diagram was useful as that portion is pretty much the same.

MH

M!ke, at least the end at the brake handle is Not adjustable--the steel rope terminates at a lead sinker at the handle (then exits over the pulley arrangements), so taking out the trunk cover is only necessary if you are curious...but whatever adjustment is at each brake or there at the engine bay...Lee

I removed the bottom of the frunk when I was replacing the speedo cable and noticed the slack on the ebrake cable. 

Hopefully I'll have a chance to put the goose up on jackstands this weekend and get a better look at the adjustment options on the rear.

MH

Hi M!ke!  I agree with Lee that at the least the handle end has the lead sinker, always been curious about the other end because my car had an obviously non-stock cable clamp there.   I wouldn't be too surprised if that front cable was totally non-adjustable (i.e., lead sinkers at both ends) because the main lever arm in the system - down near the oil pan - operates over a fairly broad range of positions.  System leverage is maximized over a narrow range, of course, but overall it seems like a fairly accommodating setup. 

Curious what you find!

Sorry folks, I just deleted some of that last post, bottom line is my dash is not currently installed so the handle assembly is not supported well.  Thought I had a strange cable tension problem too but now realize it will be fixed once the dash is back in.  

I need more easy 'phantom' resto problems like this and fewer of the real, cantankerous type, for sure!! 

 3 pics of the e-brake, sorry the only good picture is quite different than any other I've seen (taken off a car at the 2016 concorso Italiano)--Lee

Lee's first pic is the rear of the cable, which is where I was able to remove the slack.  Turns out the rear end of the cable goes through a hollow bolt and through a clevis kind of arrangement.  There is a small lead ball on the end, but that seems to be there soley to keep the strands from fraying.  There is also a small sleeve with a set screw near the end.  This is where the main adjustment takes place.  Slide the sleeve up to the bolt and tighten the set screw.  Once it's snug the hollow bolt can be used to tighten it to the desired degree.

Attached is a copy of Lee's image cropped to the clevis like assembly in question .  Cable comes in from the left edge, through the hollow bolt, clevis thing, lock nut, sleeve with set screw ending with lead ball on end.

MH