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Well, I've tested too many LEDs. The emergency flasher is the best way to perform side by side comparisons. Unfortunately, repeatedly pushing the emergency flasher plunger eventually broke the internal clip that retains the emergency flasher in depressed mode. Well, that stinks.

Of course, one solution is to call the vendors, break out the wallet and order a replacement. Another, is the stabbing toothpick technique. I actually tried that; but, lost all confidence when I found my lights flashing two days later.

Then an idea hit me. Not sure that I can effectively describe it. Essentially, I drilled and tapped a very small hole above the emergency flasher button and into the flasher's black surround. I used a 2/56" tap. With a 1/4" long 2/56" machine screw I mounted a metal latch (actually a portion of a small picture hanger) that can lock down the button; or, easily swivel to the side to allow release. Works great and doesn't look to cheesy IMHO.


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  • EmerFlashLatchs
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BAVAUTO.COM originally had them at $32 the last time I looked in March but I didn't need them then. Last month my flasher started popping out so I ordered one from a 2002BMW vendor on ebay. In the mean time, I ended up just openning the old flasher and fixing it by pushing the pin to the center that rides the track inside the unit. After almost 40 years of holding tension it finally got tired. I just bent it back so it can provide service for another 40. My new flasher arrived a couple of weeks ago. Now it's a spare Smiler
There are two types of e-flashers, Bayani, and that fix I described 15 years ago only works for the one held together with a steel framework. The other type needs 7 internal clips depressed simultaneously to split it open. Once open, we find the long guide-arm has been seriously shortened and the guide pin reversed, so shimming just won't work on this varient. But Wilkinson has reproduced ones in stock.
Your instructions worked for me.

Luckily, after almost ripping the unit apart trying to simultaneously push on two of the tabs with a pair of dykes while trying to pull on the ends, I found the track in tack and the arm holding th pin just lost tension. It didn't take a lot of effort to push the arm toward the center of the unit to restore the tension. My flasher rarely gets used except on the yearly safety check for my car to get the registration renewed.

Although I found the switch at $32 brand new from BAVAUTO.COM, the shipping was $28 bucks. I almost bought three to make it worth the shipping but I cancelled out at the last minute after i realized what I was doing.

The picture you have looks just like mine. Luckily, I was able to put it back together correctly Smiler
OK, I followed Garth's instructions. I found that fishing pliers worked great to pull and place the wires. Channel locks worked well for unscrewing the washer. My hands weren't strong enough without them. Bending the pin worked well. Unfortunately, when I reassembled the hazard lights would come on but not flash. Word of caution... the fishing pliers have wire cutters on the back.


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I should have left well enough alone. The Hazard light stays lit when pushed in. The hazards don't flash and the turn indicators don't blink. I bought a new switch from the current price is $60 including shipping. The diagram I drew prior to disassembly is different than the one in sobill's hazard diagram. I have tried it wired both ways and it doesn't change. I have searched previous posts. What is next step? Thanks

I have a 72 and the LB is connected to L. The LB/BK is connected to R.

The diagram you are working from is wrong. Correction- maybe not wrong but for an earlier car.

There is a Pantera TSB#13, article 106 that discusses the 'Hazard Warning Switch Connections' and references a figure on the article for the correct wiring-to-hazard warning switch connection. I wrote down the wiring from my switch before removing it for repair. It matched up to what is on the TSB.

Does your old hazard switch have the same terminal numbers as the pic that you posted? Or does it not have a terminal #30b, but has a terminal #59d?

If your old switch has the terminals shown in the pic, and your new switch has a terminal #59d, then do not make a connection to terminal #59d. Cap the unused Y/BK.

The LB and the LB/BK can be interchanged, as LB is for the right turn signals and LB/BK is for the left turn signals.

Yahoo!! I'm glad you got it working!

When you say that the flasher isn't working, do you mean that the lights won't flash, or is it just the indicator light in the tach that isn't flashing? If it's the flasher unit, you could have a 4-wire unit that isn't available any more. You will have to convert to a 3-wire flasher. If you have to convert to the 3-wire flasher, get back to us here (or send me a PM), and I will tell you what you need to do.

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