0 ohm is full and 200 is empty. And mine reads full all the time. (full when full, when empty it reads 90 % full)
So should I add a resistance or maybe something is wrong with the sender?
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Contact Thomas Tornblom in Sweden (Thomas.Tornblom at hax.se). He makes a fuel gauge corrector that allows you to map the sender readings to a correct gauge reading.
Someone else on this list makes one too, but I don't remember who it was. IIRC, he's an aerospace engineer.
Cheers!
Garth
Someone else on this list makes one too, but I don't remember who it was. IIRC, he's an aerospace engineer.
Cheers!
Garth
Thanks - I'll do that.
I measured the ohm to 88 between the + and the white/black wire. And the tank is about 80% full. If the scare was linear I guess the ohm should have been 40. so maybe 88 is not totally wrong, but why does the gauge still show full?
If I have time tomorrow I'll try again with 50% in the tank, if the ohm shows 120 then maybe the gauge is defective?
I measured the ohm to 88 between the + and the white/black wire. And the tank is about 80% full. If the scare was linear I guess the ohm should have been 40. so maybe 88 is not totally wrong, but why does the gauge still show full?
If I have time tomorrow I'll try again with 50% in the tank, if the ohm shows 120 then maybe the gauge is defective?
Red is + and connects to one terminal of the fuel gauge and connects to one terminal of the red low fuel level warning light.
Yellow goes to the second terminal of the red low fuel warning light.
W/Blk connects to the other terminal of the fuel gauge (other end goes to the sender).
Black connects to the ground tab.
John
Yellow goes to the second terminal of the red low fuel warning light.
W/Blk connects to the other terminal of the fuel gauge (other end goes to the sender).
Black connects to the ground tab.
John
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And with John's diagram you can test the gauge with a potentiometer or a set of resistors...
quote:I measured the ohm to 88 between the + and the white/black wire.
You need to measure the ohm's between the terminal on the sending unit where the white/black wire connects and ground. The white/black wire should be disconnected when you do the measurement.
The way you did the measurement you are measuring the resistance in the gauge...
In your two pics showing the light on, what switches do you have on? Ignition? Headlight? Both? Is it the bulb that is connected to the yellow wire that lights up?
With all of the wires disconnected from the gauge, turn on the ignition switch. Which wire(s) become hot? Should only be the red one.
Turn off the ignition switch and turn on the headlight switch to the first position. Now which wire(s) is (are) hot? If the yellow one is now hot, that is your gauge light and not the warning light. There should be two yellow wires going to this gauge. Yellow/black goes to the gauge light, and yellow goes to the fuel sender for the warning light.
It would appear that someone has done some rewiring, or at least replaced all but one (the white/black wire) of the connectors on the wires.
If the yellow wire in your pic is hot when the headlight switch is on, then that is your gauge light and it appears to be installed in the correct place on the gauge. If it is not hot with the headlight switch or the ignition switch, then this is for the warning light and it needs to be moved to the other, taller "tube", and the red wire (hot with ignition switch) needs to connect to the tab at the base of that taller "tube". The red wire also needs to be connected to the other instrument tab (it's the one sort of opposite the tab where the white/black wire attaches). It is the tab at the bottom of your last pic.
Check this out and get back to us.
John
With all of the wires disconnected from the gauge, turn on the ignition switch. Which wire(s) become hot? Should only be the red one.
Turn off the ignition switch and turn on the headlight switch to the first position. Now which wire(s) is (are) hot? If the yellow one is now hot, that is your gauge light and not the warning light. There should be two yellow wires going to this gauge. Yellow/black goes to the gauge light, and yellow goes to the fuel sender for the warning light.
It would appear that someone has done some rewiring, or at least replaced all but one (the white/black wire) of the connectors on the wires.
If the yellow wire in your pic is hot when the headlight switch is on, then that is your gauge light and it appears to be installed in the correct place on the gauge. If it is not hot with the headlight switch or the ignition switch, then this is for the warning light and it needs to be moved to the other, taller "tube", and the red wire (hot with ignition switch) needs to connect to the tab at the base of that taller "tube". The red wire also needs to be connected to the other instrument tab (it's the one sort of opposite the tab where the white/black wire attaches). It is the tab at the bottom of your last pic.
Check this out and get back to us.
John
Maybe you have one of them new fangled econoboxes? I've heard they don't use gas, actually you have to suck out some gas from the tank occasionally, it produces more than it uses? 
quote:Originally posted by No Quarter:
Maybe you have one of them new fangled econoboxes? I've heard they don't use gas, actually you have to suck out some gas from the tank occasionally, it produces more than it uses?
That would be nice get rich driving the pantera
quote:Originally posted by jb1490:
and the red wire (hot with ignition switch) needs to connect to the tab at the base of that taller "tube"
This got me on the right track. Since I had the black there you described the red should be, I moved it. And now it works!
I have attached this picture of how I think it all should be connected.
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Excellent! And your pic and notes are correct.
John
John
Here's a picture of the fuel gauge wiring hookup from the PanteraPlace.com for reference.
