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I just finished the restoration on my 72 and now my fuel gauge is not working. It worked prior to the tank coming out and being cleaned / sealed. I did make sure the sender arm was making a full sweep before I put the tank back in the car. I just want to make sure I rewired correctly. By putting a volt meter on the remaining two is there a way to test that the wiring is ok?
Thanks,
Toby
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Toby,

explain "not working". Is the gage reading empty, full, or somewhere in between?

The sender is a variable resistance, a rheostat if you will. The resistance at empty is 200 ohms, the resistance at full is zero ohms (a short circuit). The circuit is powered by fuse #12, which also powers the oil pressure & coolant temp circuits.

If all 3 gages are non functional, check the fuse.

If the gage is reading empty, this would indicate an open circuit, a wire is not connected. If the gage is reading full, this would indicate a short circuit, possible to the chassis, or between the two wires.

good luck, George
Toby,

disconnect both wires & measure the resistance between them, the resistance should be somewhat less than 200 ohms, depending upon how much fuel is in the tank.

If the resistance is less than 200 ohms, and is approximately correct for the amount of fuel in the tank, then you have an open circuit elsewhere, perhaps a bad ground or a loose wire behind the fuel gage. If the resistance is right around 200 ohms, the sender is stuck at the bottom (or no longer buoyant). If the resistance is very high, in the thousand ohm or meg-ohm range, or even infinite, you have a poor connection or an open circuit in the sender.

George
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