Fuel Tank going in - need help!

Hi Nate,

It was close to next on my list, so I just removed my gas tank today.

Item A in your picture is exactly how my car is. There is nothing covering this surface. There are a couple of small pads bonded the metal at the upper edge (just out of view in your image) that cover the back-side screws for the voltage regulator and coil.

Item B in your picture is a pad that is similar in construction (and thickness) to item #2 that just drops onto the floor (was not glued down. It is shaped to fit precisely onto the floor metal.

Item C in your photo is a matt similar insulating to #2, but is only 1/4" thick at best. It seems to be two thin layers of the hard tarpaper card with a thin layer of (now disintegrated) grey foam between. This pad is glued to the body as is #2. Sound insulation I guess.

I hope that helps,

Mark

Nate,

You need to install the gullwing release cable before you install the tank. It's also very important that you install secondary emergency cables at the same time. The emergency cables dont have to be as thick so this makes them easier to install. Also, make sure the bolts are in place for the coil before the tank goes in.

Johnny

JOHNNY,
You mention emergency cables. Was that standard on some cars? How do they work?

I have often thought of doing something like that with a smaller cable.

DICK RUZZIN

I don't believe any cars were delivered with emergency back-up latch release cables. I have a late car and a good friend has a very late car, and neither are so equipped. It is a VERY good idea if one doesn't check the integrity of the cables very often, as access will (as in a Pantera) be very expensive if one should fail. A good idea to lube those latches while you're doing this.

I plan to install some and leave them coiled up behind the firewall interior cover-panel (behind the seats). Only a few screws away if ever needed, and always out of sight.

Mark

MARK,
You could use a thinner cable and go through the same cable holes to the latches I believe. I would leave something visible, with a little tag on it so that who ever owns the car will not forget that the access is there.

Could you imagine the panic if one breaks?

I did have the cable on one of the end locks break once but I was able to still raise the wing high enough at the front to get a wire hook on the rear latch to release it. Great idea.

DICK RUZZIN

quote:

Originally posted by Dick Ruzzin:
You could use a thinner cable and go through the same cable holes to the latches I believe.

Yes, that is the plan.

quote:

I would leave something visible, with a little tag on it so that who ever owns the car will not forget that the access is there.

I assume you meant "after you", but I'll be dead then…

quote:

Could you imagine the panic if one breaks?

Yes I can, which is why I did the same thing to my Panteras after I heard about someone having to cut a hole in the under-side of their front trunk to hook the latch.

Mark

Hi Dick,

As Mark says these where not original on the Mangusta. They where however fitted to Panteras at the front. I dont know when they started but my October 73 car has it. You have to look behind the heater to see it.

Here is a pic of one I installed. For the rear latches you have to have it discreetly coming into the wheelhouse with a loop on the end.

PS, those painted screws where noting to do with me! I changed them for stainless.

Johnny

1028 has insulation at A,B and C

Sorry, I meant 528

quote:

Originally posted by Bob Ekman (8MA528):
1028 has insulation at A,B and C

So does 600.

Additionally, the insulation at "A" was overheated, and the insulation at "C" was gasoline soaked.

A few more bits of advice:

You also need to install the AC hoses before the fuel tank.

You might as well tap the fuel outlet up to 3/8 NPT while you have it apart, the 5/16 standard fuel fitting size has been mentioned as a problem since the 1970's.

Do not be in a hurry to put the gas tank in. Honestly, it can go in at the very end, and if it is installed, it covers up a good place to set tools.

Gents, thanks for your input, it is MUCH appreciated!! Some of these details need to be stamped down prior to the install so the install is on temporary hold. I'll post some pics when things are moving forward. Regards to all, Nate

Nate,

IMHO.....I wouldn't put 1, B, or C back in the car....!

Why? The original materials used, held water against the sheet metal.

#1 will cause your rocker panel panel to rust..... B- will cause the bottom of your tank to corrode... C- will cause your sheet metal panel to rot from the inside out.....

Unless you know your car will be kept in a humidity controlled environment, and never go out in the rain, I wouldn't put that horse hair crap (item C and probably B and #1!) anywhere..... that it was installed from the factory! DeTomaso put the stuff inside the doors....and how many people still have perfect doors????

That material was a natural sponge for moisture and with the "no standards" rust proofing practices....the sheet metal where this stuff was placed...was doomed the day they were covered!

If road noise is the issue, ie cutting down on road noise, I would look for a tar/rubber based modern material to do the job.

Under my tank, I used some closed cell foam. Pulled all the rest of the stuff off where I could......I still have some of the pieces floating around here....not sure why....

Anyway, that's my opinion. That stuff probably ruined more cars than it helped....

Steve