FUSES

I am wondering if anyone has a Mangusta wiring diagram, if so I could really use a copy.

The reason I am fooling with the fuses is that the Painless adjustable thermostat that I wired into my fan system about seven years ago quit. It caused a dead short that drained my battery completely overnight.

I got everything going except the little light that says GEN that goes on when you turn the key. Also the dome light works with the dash switch but not with either door when opened. Door lights work.

The GEN bulb and the dome bulb both work when tested. (Interesting, the original GEN bulb, installed in 1968, has CHINA stamped on the brass case).

I went through the fuse box and found a few that made iffy contact, that is now fixed. Alternator is working fine, GEN light does not.

If anyone has any ideas please let me know, also where can I get a wiring diagram?
All the best,
DICK RUZZIN

Hall Pantera sells one

http://hallpantera.com/cgi-bin...ntera-inc&item=45168

I removed and replaced my Painless adjustable thermostat and the battery drain is gone. GEN light still does not light when the key is turned although the amp meter shows a strong alternator.

I have put together a translation of the fuse box cover which I will put on this site after another review.

I still do not have any information about the different fuse values that are assigned to each of the twelve fuses. If anyone has that please send it to me.

Either that or I will have to consult with someone and take a guess at it by using what is generally used in the industry for the different systems.

Also, fuses with copper instead of aluminum are also available so I have ordered a selection of those to replace what I have. After just cleaning the corroded ends of my fuses I noticed
that my dash lights were brighter.

I think I will drive the car today.
DICK RUZZIN

quote:

Originally posted by Dick Ruzzin:


I have put together a translation of the fuse box cover which I will put on this site after another review.

I still do not have any information about the different fuse values that are assigned to each of the twelve fuses. If anyone has that please send it to me.

I think I will drive the car today.
DICK RUZZIN

The vintage Italian cars shared many components. In this case the fuse panel is sourced from the same supplier Maserati used.

I have not ascertained that every circuit is exact as stated on panel.

#1.- ABBAGLIANTE S (Sinistro) SPIA - Left High Beam Lamp
#2.- ABBAGLIANTE D (Destro) – Right High Beam Lamp
#3.- LUCI POSIZIONE ANT POST SPIA - Park Lights, Front, Rear
#4.- ANABBAGLIANTI FENDINEBBIA - Low Beam lights Fog lamps
#5.- ALZACRISTALLO S (Sinistro) – Left side glass lift
#6.- ALZACRISTALLO D (Destro)
AVVISATORI ELLETTRICI - Right side glass lift – Electric Horns
#7.- TERGICRISTALLO LAMPI - LUCE - Windsheild wipers lights
#8.- LUCI INTERNE LUCI PORTIERE OROLOGIO - Interior lights, door lights, clock
#9,- ACCENDISIGARI CASSETTO RADIO - Lighter, cassette radio
#10.- VENTILATORE TROMBE - Fans. Airhorns
#11.- POMPE BENZINA - Fuel pump
#12.- INTERMITTENZA RETROMARCIA STOP - Flashing , back-up, stop (lamps)

Recommended sizes were
#1.- 15A
#2.- 15A
#3.- 15A
#4.- 15A
#5.- 25A
#6.- 25A
#7.- 25A
#8.- 15A
#9.- 25A
#10.-15A
#11.-15A
#12.-15A

Caution on Lucas fuses as the ones on my car are not 15A & 25A they are plastic body, some of you have replace with the glass body pointy ends (GRCs) they are not a direct exchange.
http://www.drooartz.com/index.php?page=29

Nice. I never looked in there.

quote:

Caution on Lucas fuses as the ones on my car are not 15A & 25A they are plastic body, some of you have replace with the glass body pointy ends (GRCs) they are not a direct exchange.http://www.drooartz.com/index.php?page=29

Thanks everyone for all the input. I am putting together a document that assembles all of this. I will then put it on the Forum.

I have not had a single electrical problem with my car since I have owned it. I have corrected the battery drain, it was a Painless adjustable fan thermostat.

It put my GEN light out. The bulb works but no longer goes on when you turn the ignition on.
I have to find out what is causing that, any one with an idea please let me know.
Thanks,
DICK RUZZIN

quote:

Caution on Lucas fuses as the ones on my car are not 15A & 25A they are plastic body, some of you have replace with the glass body pointy ends (GRCs) they are not a direct exchange.
http://www.drooartz.com/index.php?page=29

Denis and others,

I believe the link Denis provided, and thus the caution, do not apply to Mangusta or Pantera stock fuses.

This is lengthy and confusing, so please bear with me.....

The proper fuses for our cars are the pointed-end fuses, designated as GBC fuses.
These were (originally?) made with a ceramic core and a copper strip as the fuse element. Current GBC offerings all seem to be of a plastic core with aluminum elements.

Bussmann DID make proper pointed-end GBC fuses with the fuse element contained within a glass tube. The metal end caps were pointed. These are no longer made and only NOS stocks are available.

Denis incorrectly described them as GRC fuses.

The information provided in the link Denis provided, regarding the differences between British and American fuses, contains correct information. If you have a Triumph, or MG, etc then using a barrel-shaped American fuse equal to the value on the barrel-shaped British Lucas fuse is most definitely a BIG NO-NO.

BUT, the American fuses referenced in Denis' link are NOT our pointed-end GBC fuses; they are barrel-shaped AGC fuses. The British fuses (I cannot for the life of me find a type designation for them other than "British Lucas fuse") are a barrel fuse, like the glass AGC fuses.

Everyone now confused enough?........

So, for our cars - Mangusta and Pantera - we should use pointed-end GBC fuses (ceramic, plastic, glass)wth the same amperage rating as the original GBC fuses.

Larry

If you are looking for ceramic body copper fuses try searching "vintage volkswagon fuses".
Like
mofoco.com
jbugs.com

Doug M

Thanks Larry

I am confused. Good information, but why do you recommend a 35 and 17 amp fuse? And show a picture of a fuse that will not fit the retainers?

Dick Ruzzin

I have purchased the VW type with copper,
15 and 25 amp. They look like the original and should fit like the original.

DICK RUZZIN

quote:

posted Jul 26, 2017 12:58 PM Hide Post
I am confused. Good information, but why do you recommend a 35 and 17 amp fuse? And show a picture of a fuse that will not fit the retainers?

Dick Ruzzin

Dick,

Sorry for the confusion, Dick. I really was trying to clarify things here.

The photo I included was solely to illustrate that the British barrel fuses referenced in the post by Denis are in fact barrel shaped and do not have the pointed-end that our GBC fuses do.

It was taken from a British car parts supplier and confirmed the information previously referenced by Denis.

Once again, for a Pantera or a Mangusta the correct fuse to use is the pointed-end GBC fuse rated at the amperage originally assigned to each circuit.

The caution only applies to cars originally equipped with the British Lucas barrel shaped fuse.

Larry

quote:

It put my GEN light out. The bulb works but no longer goes on when you turn the ignition on.
I have to find out what is causing that, any one with an idea please let me know.

Dick,

Does your Mangusta have the Corvette alternator or the Ford alternator?

In either case, find the Gen light wire in the engine compartment. It should be at the voltage regulator (the "I" terminal on Ford). You should be able to unplug the connector from the voltage regulator and add a jumper from the Gen light wire to ground.

Turn on the ignition switch. If the Gen light comes on, then the bulb and wiring into the engine compartment are good, and the problem most likely lies within the voltage regulator.

John

FWIW the Mangusta I have recorded all have Bosch alternators. Same alternator as Alfa-Romeo Montreal and Lamborghini Miura.

Thanks Larry for the clarification.

John,
I have a GM alternator with internal regulator. It has two wires that go into it I cannotlook at it right now but there is a white plastic plug that plugs into it with a red wire also attached to the external alternator post.

I know this is a vague description concerning the wires.

Could the problem be inside the alternator?
Dick Ruzzin

quote:

Could the problem be inside the alternator?

Dick,

Yes, it could be inside the alternator.

Remove the plastic plug from the alternator and connect a jumper wire from the single wire in the plug (NOT the one with the red wire) to ground.

Momentarily turn on the ignition switch to the run position. If the Gen lamp illuminates, then the circuit wiring is good up to the alternator plastic plug, and the problem is in the alternator.

If the Gen lamp does not illuminate, then the problem is somewhere in the car's wiring.

John

JOHN,

Thank you very much! I will try that today

DICK RUZZIN

I received my copper - ceramic fuses, the right ones, today from MEMOTRONICS in Spring, Texas. Six for $2.99.
I got the 15 and 25 amp.

I have not tested the alternator yet.

Dick Ruzzin

...curious about the fuel pump fuse (!), but see from the schematic that it is for the AC blower motor and also the tach...Also, just a small difference from what is available at Maseratinet for the fuse cover...

http://www.maseratinet.com//pc...-fuse-box-cover.aspx