Greetings all!

My motor progress is actually fairly in a positive direction at this time!!! We did mate the trans and motor together the other day to check out clutch disc hub and pilot bearing holder clearance, and I'm pleased to say that there is hope!!!!

We found that by taking a standard Chevy 10.5" disc, and flipping the inner hub around 180 degrees, that all will fit into this config with no machining required!!!

My clutch shop said that this was a fairly standard operation to do and would not contribute significantly to cost of a disc. Cost is more a factor of what type of lining you have installed.... standard... or Kevlar.

When I get all the details crunched and munched, I will pass it on!

On a different note, Vance, a Goose owner from southern TX, asked me about chassis stiffening mods that many owners have been touting on cars for sale.

I have never seen anything on this subject (yet) so can claim to know nothing..... for real this time! Have any of you out there seen any info on this or know of where to look for this info???? Had it done to your cars????

Vance has his car totally apart and is ready to do floorpans and rockers, and would like to know of any other mods that can be made to help tighten the car up a bit!

Please respond directly to him at: sechelski@computron.net
and don't forget to CC me....

THANKS!!!
Steve
Original Post
Hi, Just wondering if anyone has any info on strengthening the frame of a goose. I'm in the precess of a resto now and have the car upsidedown, now is the time to take care of such items.
Also looking for info on cooland tubes since I'm replacing mine. My thoughts are to replace with Stainless Steel but looking ideas.
Thanks to All
Rich
8MA514
The Kill Bill Mangusta was formerly owned by a welder. I don't have photos as this time to share with you, however, he basically "boxed-in" the chassis with thicker steel around the original chassis and gusset plates. The welding isn't exactly of Jack Roush quality but is decent. Even though there was extensive welding performed, some cracks were found along the rear-most chassis member that have been fixed. I saw a Mangusta being restored once by Doane Spencer (deceased). He told me the Mangusta chassis was made out of "case-hardened toilet paper".
When the Fox Mangusta was built by PI Motorsports, a separate sub-frame was made encircling the passenger compartment and tying into the rear of the car. The spine chassis is just not enough by itself to deal with the anemic 302, much less a highly developed engine such as is mentioned in the chatter on this BB.
PI Motorsports built me a set of Stainless Steel coolant tubes to replace my rusted original style items. You might check with them at 714-744-1398 if you desire.
I would enjoy seeing photos of other folks 'Geese, especially ones in restoration. Ciao, Dave
Thanks for the reply. I'm in the process of a full restroation of my goose and trying to bring it back to as close to orginal as possible with sum upgrades in preformance and relilability.
For the last two weeks I have been working on the undercarraige and just about have it finished. This goose only has 25000klm on it but the floor pans showed some rust, so all sheet metal has been replaced, treated, 4 coats of epoxy primer, then 2 coats of rubberized undercoating applied. The coolant tubes were replaced with stainless steel that I had Fabed at local metal shop. My hopes are to keep future rust and problems in check as best as I can. If anyone has any suggestions of what else should be done please reply.
If you would like to see a couple of pisc of my progress Please email me, I'm new to computers and haven't learned how to post a picture yet.
jettours@charter.net
Thanks
Rich
If the sheetmetal isn't in yet you can consider having it galvanized. You need the cold thick process, not the electronic plating process.
No one wouild ever suspect that it was there.
It is what changed the 911's from rust buckets into lasting vehicles that you can drive in the wet.
Doug,
That's a great idea and I probably should have thought of it. I live on the coast and for the last two years we have been playing with epoxy primer and rubber undercoating on some of our boat trailers with great success, no rust at all. I say that but it is only a two year test whereas I have galvanized trailers that are ten years old with the only rust showing on bolt threads where most galv. has been removed. I'm confident that the galvanized method would have been a better choice but I have already spent many hours installing and finishing this sheet metal. It's not perfect but I have to say it is a much much better than when it came from factory. I think I will add one more coat of undercoating just to be safe while I have the goose turned up side down and can get into every nook.
Thanks
Rich
You did the next best thing then the galvanized.
There was a guy here that drove his every day. It was yellow. I remember him driving it in the snow.
I had a chance 25 years ago to buy a "restored" red goose but $25,000 was two years worth of beer and pretzels.
The Pantera turned up just at the time I had the money. Timing is everything.
I still think that the Mangusta is the prettiest car ever made. Unless your talking about that Checker cab with the Playmate of the Year naked live on the hood, then I'd pick that one.
It's just as well I didn't get a goose. I'd be blowing it apart with 500hp engines.
I can't help myself. I can't stop. Now I need 600hp. Help me...please.
I've found that the 3m Body shoots is the best you can use.
Likes (0)
Post
×
×
×
×