GPM water pump

the nearest i could find was 10pm per 1000tpm

did you find (or measure) the pressure accross the pump (suction/discharge)

just going to use 10pm per 1000 rpm

10 gpm?  If not, what is 10pm?

Gallons, Liters, ???

sorry i’m on a cell 10gpm per 1000rpm

no leaks and the oil circulates without a pressure drop.

wire up the PWM fan control tomorrow.

WOW!   that's a cooler.

The following excerpt from the 1972 Ford OHO (Off-Highway Only) publication shows water flow rates of various Ford water pumps. Stock 351-C/400 (p/n DOOZ-8512 A) with straight blade impeller flows 78.8 gallons/minute @ 5000 rpm using 5.4 bhp. (Ford Note- cavitation begins at 5000 and becomes severe at 6000 rpm).  At 7000 rpm, flow= 85.9 GPM using 12.4 bhp. Note minimal extra water flow while using 2-1/4X more power, due to severe cavitation.

Stock Cleveland pump with curved Boss 302 impeller adapted & reduced in OD= 42.1 GPM @5000 rpm using only 1.6 bhp. Same pump w/cut-down Boss 302 impeller flows 60.4 GPM @ 7000 using only 3.6 bhp with no cavitation to 9000 rpm. But some low speed overheating may occur on the street with such a pump. Chart doesn't say if the numbers were free-flow or mounted on an engine with the usual flow resistance.

You can get much the same effect by slowing the stock pump down with various pulley sizes. The flow numbers also indicate why a 1/4 horse electric water pump alone will not cool a street 351-C for very long regardless of its efficiency over a belt drive pump. Ford's OHO publication was only published for a little over a year and is in the POCA Archives. Lots of good stuff in there but was dropped when Ford, GM and Chrysler stopped supporting racing.

I know that article. I think that it should be additionally noted that the original intent was to find free horsepower in reducing parasitic looses within the pump itself.

The mention of the point at which the pump impeller causes cavitation is significant. The recommendations to me are predominantly for racing purposes.

Considering those for a primarily street driven car should be taken cautiously.

I never tried Gary Halls "Phoenix radiator" but I think it is just a thicker brass radiator and that is where the additional cooling capacity originates from?

There also was some discussion about increasing the diameter of the coolant pipes running under the floor and running 100% coolant without any water.

Also a brass radiator is more efficient then the aluminum ones.

Hall said that in his experience the only advantage to the aluminum radiator was weight reduction for getting the cars weight down for racing.

Increasing the engine cubic inch displacement will also increase the amount of heat generated into the cooling system. A big displacement engine is just going to run hotter.

I know from experience that the Ford FE engines can be a real bummer to restart hot in the summer. It doesn't even need to be a monster. 390's will do that.

I've seen completely stock FE's boil the fuel out of the carb within seconds of shutting them off in the summer.

All of these factors should be considered.