Half shaft hitting

Sounds like you moved the suspension up, to where the compression at full travel would be?
Remember the actual compression of the spring on your coil over is only 1 to 3 inches max. At ride height the lower A-arm should be para ell to the ground. After you set the ride height sit on the back (with the engine cover up) and see how far you can collapse the suspension, I think you will find it is not close to your half-shaft.
You also can switch the half-shaft end to end, theirs a big side (where the shaft size is concerned) and a narrow side and their is no difference in operation. I would like to see a picture if possible.

when the suspension is sagging while on jack stands, that's when the half shaft is touching the mounts.
I still need to set the ride height but didn't want to go too far if this was a major problem which I'm kinda concerned with.
Turning the half shaft around is not something that will help.
Why would adding a shock that is about 1/2 an in taller cause this? Unless lowering the ride height is the solution?.....

In some cases involving sphere-ball contact, its not the ball mounts but the frontmost hex bolt head that touches. This can be helped if not fixed by removing the hex bolts, countersinking the top plate of the sphere-ball, and using long 5/16-24 allen-flathead screws of proper length. The metric threads are very close to the SAE threads; if your are tight, a few run-throughs with lots of thread lube will convince the welded nuts and allen screws to play nice together. I did this to my Hall sphere-balls a LONG time ago and no problems since.

If the main body is also touching, a milling machine can cut the top/bottom surfaces to a minimum and give a little more clearance. The tops of the all-aluminum assemblies need not be perfectly parallel to the ground, either, but can be cut on a slant if that will help. There are quite a few variants of the Hall sphere-balls being sold today and I'm not familiar with any except the original Halls, which used a plastic body with a separate aluminum top cap.

Thanks! I'm hoping that counter sinking won't be necessary after I adjust the ride height.

just my ramblings since I don't recall nor have the details...

If the new shock is 1/2" longer, would not that allow the upright droop down almost 1/2" farther (lower arm and shafts more of an angle).

so If you lift the upright up about 3/8 to 1/2" up, would that give you the clearance you recall with the old shocks

I doubt you will EVER see a problem under normal street driving. The suspension should not unload that much. A picture would make it a lot easier to diagnose. By the way, the shocks are approximately 1/4 longer than stock.

thanks again. I kinda doubted that it would touch but if it does, I think it would be bad.

JFB you were right, the extended angle is what was causing the clearance problem.