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> I understand that Headman makes a header for the 2V head.
> Will it match up with ANSA GT mufflers and who sells them?

Yes, they make a header with the proper size oval port flange for 2V
heads, 1 3/4" diameter primaries and a 2 1/4" diameter collector that
fits the Pantera GTS style mufflers and tail pipes. I got mine through
Larry Stock at the Pantera Parts Connection.

Dan Jones
Another thing you might consider is simply bolting 4V headers onto your 2V ports. This adds a big pipe to a small hole, which does not obstruct outward flow, but the small port creates a 'step' that impedes flow back inside the port. Backward flow is called 'reversion' and can reduce power noticably in a given engine. Shops build custom anti-reversion plates for 351-Cs that do exactly the same thing, to add power or torque to an engine, and you'll be getting most of this free. Worth a try, especially since you already have some type of 4V headers that came with the car.
> Shops build custom anti-reversion plates for 351-Cs that do exactly
> the same thing, to add power or torque to an engine, and you'll be
> getting most of this free. Worth a try, especially since you already
> have some type of 4V headers that came with the car.

Vizard's dyno tests indicate that anti-reversion cones (the cones
worked better than a step) only work in the presence of a crossover
pipe at or near the header collectors. Also the effect worked best
on engines with relatively tight (108 degrees or so) lobe centers.
Cylcone had the patents on the AR headers but were bought out by one
of the other header manufacturers. I called them and they said they
dropped the entire line of AR flanged headers and claimed they didn't
perform as advertised. They may have done this for cost reasons but
if they did test, my guess they were tested on an engine without a
crossover and/or with wide lobe separation.

Dan Jones
When re-installing the original headers on the original motor, my headers didn't fit right, so it was a two man job getting them in and took quite a while longer than anticipated. Of course, afterward, I learn there is a tool available called a Header Spreader Tool. It looks like the round drum brake spreader on drum brake systems, at the bottom. In fact, that little device which has the wheel in the middle for adjusting drum brakes through the slot on the outside of the brake backing plate has been called "The Poor Man's Header Spreader". Place it between the header pipes and screw it to push the header tubes apart to line them up to the exhaust port threaded holes, and Waa-La!
Also, I ended up with several sets of exhaust gaskets that didn't fit quite right and one of which was very thin on the same exhaust port that failed and burned through on the original header gaskets. I used Mr. Gasket exhaust gaskets and a friend put them on the headers before installation, inserted the bolts from the backwards direction to hold the gasket in place on the headers and got out the old Dremel Moto-Tool to match and widen out the gaskets to match the tube diameters of the Headers.
Gonna have to return some parts if I can find the receipts.
This is not the answer to your original question, but this is a bridge that's gonna have to be crossed.
Another tip, learned the hard way. Went to a muffler shop and paid $25 for the 2" long "exhaust pipe adapter" which goes between the header collectors and the mufflers at the flange. The doughnut gasket sits on this little pipe and aligns the header/exhaust assembly. They will burn out with age/use. Do yourself a favor and buy them at Auto-Zone or your favorite auto parts store for $1.49 each. Found that out a couple of days later, but I learn and share the info, so you can go out to dinner... on me.
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