Does anyone have a diagram that shows all the waterhoses? After engine installation I do not have coolant flow through my heater. The system is full of coolant. I am going to change the valves.
Dick Ruzzin
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There is a cooling diagram on the Manusta International web site.
quote:Originally posted by Dick Ruzzin:
Does anyone have a diagram that shows all the waterhoses? After engine installation I do not have coolant flow through my heater. The system is full of coolant. I am going to change the valves.
Dick Ruzzin
Hi Dick, don't know if you have fixed your heater yet, but I had a similar problem with my car (8MA 1298)and fixed it by the changes shown in the attached diagram.
Regards Terry
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Thanks, Terry.
I now have both and will comparte it to what exists on the car sometime later this spring.
All the best, and thanks again.
Dick Ruzzinh, 8MA670.
I now have both and will comparte it to what exists on the car sometime later this spring.
All the best, and thanks again.
Dick Ruzzinh, 8MA670.
I believe I was the author of the diagram that shows up in the MI web pages.
This is a "best guess" scenario based upon a very original car that I had a chance to look at, plus a diagram from a guy back east that also had a largely unmolested car. However, he did have somethings connected improperly and like I said, between the two cars and some head scratching, I came out with this very crude drawing.....almost pre-internet!
I was looking through an Alfa Romeo parts catalog the other day and noticed that they have some new water valves available that look similar to the Goose versions. I have only ever held one in my hands....and can't recall them exactly.
I don't ever intend on putting the stupid valves back in the rear of the car..... If anything, a voltage controlled valve would be fantastic! However, I have decided to go the way of the racers, and install two manual valves in my heater lines where they exit the top of the center spine under the dash accessible to the driver and passenger in the event of a core rupture.
With some minor contorting I can actually reach the valves, one on each side of the console so to speak while driving.
I leave one open full, and modulate the rate of flow with the other one...or you could leave them both partially open/closed. It doesn't take much flow to heat up a Goose rather quickly!!!!! It IS nice to have heat from time to time!!!
One thing that you DO need to to, and DeTomaso did this with the original design, is to insure that when the valves are closed, that there is still flow in that circuit, from the top of the intake back to the water pump (Engine side of valves, not heater core side). Those are the stock Ford heater hookups and they should be used that way still. Doing so (I used two "T" connections in place of the "Y" connections that DeT used) will prevent air bubbles from forming in the top of the water pump cavity, which could certainly hinder the pump's ability to pump water into the block! Doesn't take much....a 3/8" crossover line is sufficient.
Panteras can suffer from this same problem!
Steve
This is a "best guess" scenario based upon a very original car that I had a chance to look at, plus a diagram from a guy back east that also had a largely unmolested car. However, he did have somethings connected improperly and like I said, between the two cars and some head scratching, I came out with this very crude drawing.....almost pre-internet!
I was looking through an Alfa Romeo parts catalog the other day and noticed that they have some new water valves available that look similar to the Goose versions. I have only ever held one in my hands....and can't recall them exactly.
I don't ever intend on putting the stupid valves back in the rear of the car..... If anything, a voltage controlled valve would be fantastic! However, I have decided to go the way of the racers, and install two manual valves in my heater lines where they exit the top of the center spine under the dash accessible to the driver and passenger in the event of a core rupture.
With some minor contorting I can actually reach the valves, one on each side of the console so to speak while driving.
I leave one open full, and modulate the rate of flow with the other one...or you could leave them both partially open/closed. It doesn't take much flow to heat up a Goose rather quickly!!!!! It IS nice to have heat from time to time!!!
One thing that you DO need to to, and DeTomaso did this with the original design, is to insure that when the valves are closed, that there is still flow in that circuit, from the top of the intake back to the water pump (Engine side of valves, not heater core side). Those are the stock Ford heater hookups and they should be used that way still. Doing so (I used two "T" connections in place of the "Y" connections that DeT used) will prevent air bubbles from forming in the top of the water pump cavity, which could certainly hinder the pump's ability to pump water into the block! Doesn't take much....a 3/8" crossover line is sufficient.
Panteras can suffer from this same problem!
Steve
This is another link:
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...860082015#2860082015
When I was working on my Goose, I found that there were several variations of how things were routed.
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...860082015#2860082015
When I was working on my Goose, I found that there were several variations of how things were routed.
The heater hoses should not be completely closed as I did years ago when I first got my car. That resulted in the hose directly in front of the engine drying out and cracking over the summer. I replaced that section with a short piece of metal tubing.
I am going to install new valves also.
Dick Ruzzin
I am going to install new valves also.
Dick Ruzzin
It appears that Terrys diagram on top of the sheet
marked original is the same as Dana Hansens on Mangusta International.
Dick Ruzzin
marked original is the same as Dana Hansens on Mangusta International.
Dick Ruzzin