Height of Front engine shield stanchions???

How do you run the car without the sheilds. Tried twice and did not like it. First the glare in the back window destroys what ever you have for rear view and second the dirt and oil you end up having to clean is a major pain.

I have pics I took for another owner will send to your email in a few minutes saves me the trouble of reducing size.

Steve,
The front of the engine covers / shields contact the rear of the hinged panel that is attached to the firewall at the bottom of the glass, It rises slightly and seals against the rubber on the side panels. All you have to do is match the sealing surfaces on the side and front of the panels as they are open at the back.

I often run my car with them off.

Dick Ruzzin

Hi Steve,
Is this what you need?

Terry

Terry,

Yes! That is exactly what I was looking for!

Now, if I could find a car that has a SN# a bit closer to mine (mid production) I can move forward.

But these numbers give me a starting point. I think I can mock up the rest using yours as a guide.

The big thing I was looking for, is "are they the same length?" And from what you have indicated, the answer is "NO!"

Thank-you!
Steve

Hello Steve,
what SN have your Mangusta?
mine is 726

regards
Simon

Simon,

MY car is #878 and the stanchions look more like squished (oval) tubing than round or square as seen in the above pic!

Steve

I believe my are also oval, I check tomorrow.
Simon

Hi Steve,
just looked through my library of Mangusta pics, and they all look to be square tube.
Terry

This above pic is of 8MA 766
Terry

726 have oval
from what I remember 1116 has squere.
Simon

The rods that hand down in the engine compartment are oval with an oval foot and a small bolt extending down from that.

Dick Ruzzin

Hi Steve, 8ma878 looks great, thanks for the pic!! Fwiw tubes on #1010 almost exactly like Terry's car - regards to all, Nate

For a exactly mesurements on the rod lenghts I think you must pull the windows out.

Every car has other mesurements .
Simon

Simon,

No, one wouldn't need to pull the windows to be more exact. Just pop the 4 nuts off of the stanchions holding the shields in place, and you can measure all you want!

My debate is....can I weld the missing stanchions back in place without removing the glass!!! I don't want to mess up the window rubber as it is original with only a couple of small cracks in them!

I'm hoping that by using some heat shield matting that it will be sufficient. There is at least two inches of distance, and I won't be welding for long....nor with a torch!

Ciao!
Steve

quote:

Originally posted by Mangusta:



My debate is....can I weld the missing stanchions back in place without removing the glass!!! I don't want to mess up the window rubber as it is original with only a couple of small cracks in them!

Ciao!
Steve

Thats why my advice was pull the windows.
spry some WD40 between rubber and hood and they are easy to press out.

Simon

outboard hatch front

hatch inboard front

Any updates on this project?

The stanchions look terrible without the engine covers installed. I would love to hack them off but can't bring myself to go cutting on a car this rare. Also there are numerous benefits to keeping the covers in place (adds rigidity to the gullwing, keeps glass clean and safe, reduces glare, etc...)

If you could build a threaded bore on the rear hatch, and insert a threaded rod into the stanchion, then they could be quickly removed or installed.

Although fabricating those parts and making them fit nicely is much easier said than done.

SciFi,
Only update is that I seem to have the shorter front stanchion when I need the longer one to replace my missing one.

As for cutting off the originals, today, I would have to say no, don't do it. If you are going to ever drive the car to enjoy it, you will want these pieces in place to prevent damage from flying debris in the engine compartment, be it rocks, sand, belt pieces, ball bearings.... Unless you have replacements already in hand for the rear glass.

I was thinking that it could affect air flow, but it isn't a closed system or such that the upper air is isolated 100% from the air below the shields.....

Now, that said, the original proto type Goose had no stanchions. The shields were more of a "box top" that covered the engine and perhaps more.

If one were to devise a tidy means to mount them securely and still allow easy access to the engine for normal things, I could go along with that.....

Other than the prototype, the earliest car I have seen is #508 and it has the conventional hatch covers. Would like to know if any of the earlier than #508 cars have been found and what they have for engine covers!

Cheers!
Steve

STEVE,
Mine are not square. They are oval in section, about a 40 degree ellipse that spreads out at the bottom to create a larger foot. There is a 5mm threaded rod about 25 mm long in the bottom of it that goes through the panel with a washer and nut on the bottom to hold it in place.

The foot sits on the panel, the threaded dod goes through the panel.

DICK RUZZIN