Here you go
Just asking stupid me… There is no secondary return spring installed?
@LeMans850i posted:Just asking stupid me… There is no secondary return spring installed?
For mine I have dual return springs, but not installed until I get the throttle cable attached.
This photo is from May when I had it dyno tuned. That is the same day the guys at Race Krafters made the required modification on the throttle arm. I don’t remember if I took the photo after everything was put on or it may be possible it has a return spring and I took the photo before it was put on. I have to get in there and look and then report back to you.
Fuzz
@LeMans850i posted:… There is no secondary return spring installed?
there are torsional (mouse trap) springs on both primary and secondary plates.
the shop did NOT install a throttle return on mine at all.
I have a problem with idle being erratic. I just noticed the secondary is sticking!!!! there is a youtube showing the recentering the secondary plates (by loosing screws to shaft and retighting). I don't want to go that far (yet) and plans today is to add an extension spring to the secondary, maybe another to cable.
@jfb05177 posted:there are torsional (mouse trap) springs on both primary and secondary plates.
the shop did NOT install a throttle return on mine at all.
I have a problem with idle being erratic. I just noticed the secondary is sticking!!!! there is a youtube showing the recentering the secondary plates (by loosing screws to shaft and retighting). I don't want to go that far (yet) and plans today is to add an extension spring to the secondary, maybe another to cable.
I would send the unit to a dealer and let them take care of the issue….
I’m Having issues with the sniper, it’s always backfired under sudden acceleration, i recently took it on the freeway and got the car up there in speed, it almost sounded like the valves were floating but it was certainly backfire, after that the car backfires through the car on any acceleration.
i just ordered a new O2 sensor that gets here today, verified and added/improved grounds.
checked compression in all cylinders.
i had the car tuned by a knowledgeable guy but not on a dyno. he thinks it’s a valve guide/spring issue because one cylinder was 5-10% higher than the other (also had a wet plug)
well known great engine builder said he only used top quality everything and believes it’s a tuning issue.
any thoughts or insights
@Bell3156 posted:I’m Having issues with the sniper, i...
i am having similar symptoms. (plus others)
I changed target A/F from 14.0 to 14.5. I "think" that made improvement. but I ease into throttle now. I think it goes very lean with initial throttle increase. the manual does not recomend changes to "accel pump" setting
I've notice that after change, the "improvements" occured after the next crank. so hoping it "learns" that very little throttle opening needs extra fuel
I changed air filter because the INSIDE was black
Dan,
Before you do anything else, I'd have a look at what is causing your wet cylinder. I had a similar problem and it turned out, the rings in one cylinder had not seated properly. Ugh. The solution involved new rings and honing the cylinder. I hope that is not your problem!
It's doubtful your O2 sensor is bad although oil from the wet cylinder may be fouling the O2 sensor. When you remove it, you'll know.
Good luck!
Details- the o2 sensor(s) go in the side or top of the collector anywhere between the last pipe branch and the long extension to the muffler. Do NOT put it in the bottom of the exhaust because depending on the climate where you live, upon starting, momentary condensation in the engine runs like a river on the bottom of the pipes and water is a sensor killer. Its kind of a tricky weld job to add the screw-in boss(es) while the headers are in the car. Use anti-sieze on o2 sensor threads.
Any electric fuel pump that's the same OD as a stock Ford electric pump will fit inside the stock tank (either early or late) thru the fuel sensor hole on the top. There are two identical looking fuel pumps- one for TBI-injection (14 psi) while the other is for multi-point EFI (50 psi). Dunno which Holley specifies. You'll need to add a sealed power wire thru the stock fuel sensor top to power any in-tank pump.
Mounted inside the tank like millions of other Fords since the late '80s, fuel pumps run much quieter and cooler. There's an illustrated POCA Newsletter article from about 15 yrs ago on this. I use mine as a carb primer or emergency pump backup.
Can anyone confirm whether or not the grey tach wire from the Sniper2 will work with the Pantera tach? I saw in another post that there was some issue with 9 or 12V, but as the original wire goes to coil -ve, it's going to be seeing spikes upward of 200V as the coil fires....
Yes, but you have to get a tach adaptor from Pantera Electronics. Works perfectly. And whatever you do, do not pass the grey wire close to any other wire with current going through it. It prevents the signal from travelling. Jon at Pantera Electronics can walk you through it. Good luck.
Fuzz
Thanks Fuzz. I have two questions....
1) Why do I need the tach adapter, i.e. what is it doing to the tach signal from the EFI?
2) Can I use the brown wire that goes to the Hyperspark coil -ve terminal, instead?
The original tach on the car wouldn't move off 1,200 without the adapter. Both Holley (who were very helpful) and Jon at Pantera Electronics confirmed it would not work without the adapter. And my mechanic, who is a wiring wizard, couldn't get it to work without the adapter.
I don't know the answer to your second question, other than we tried everything and the tach adapter solved it within minutes. Easy installation and works perfectly and in synch with the Sniper II digital screen readout, meaning they show the same RPM.
I'm switching over to the Sniper 2 EFI while I have the engine out.
Is anyone using both the factory coolant temp sensor and the Holley CTS PN# 543-120? I would like to keep the Veglia analog temp gauge if possible.
If using both where should the Holley coolant sensor be mounted? I'm currently using the location in the front of the block by the water pump for the Veglia gauge sensor.
I will adding an electric Stewart boost water pump at the output of the radiator and use the Holley Fan output to for control. Keeping the mechanical FlowKooler water pump on the engine.
Thanks,
John
#3590
I'm running the Holley temp sender along with the Ford sender for the Veglia gauge. The Holley sender is in the engine block below the thermostat. I moved Ford sender to the swirl tank.
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I had the Holley sensor placed in the front of block. (most relevant position for fuel management.
I had the Veglia semsor put in the INLET of the water pump. (this would be near the temp leaving radiator, lower than front of block position)
I also had idiot switch placed in the swirl. after having a couple loss of coolant and I thinking about making idiot lamp be from a coolant pressure switch
Thank you for the replies. I converted my swirl tanks to header tanks a few years ago so I don't have the temp sensor bung in the tanks anymore.
I'm also relocating one of the tanks during this process so maybe I can add a bung to one of the stainless coolant tubes for the Veglia sensor.
Thanks again.
John