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You keep putting it in until it stops taking it.

Raise the rear of the car as high as you can in order to expedite bleeding out the air.

I have a -4 air line installed from the front bleeder on the radiator to the pressure tank in the front.

This was specified in one of the dealer service bulletins.

It helps remove the natural air pocket formed inside the header tank in the radiator and helps the air escape.

Seems to work alright.
quote:
Wouldn't the amount also depend on the radiator volume?

Yes, but probably not more than about a quart.

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When I changed my radiator (copper/brass) the system used about 4-1/2 gallons.

That sounds about right, especially if the engine block wasn't drained. That's why I said "bone dry".

I've amended the quantity (slightly) in the above post due to my error. Frowner

John
quote:
Doesn't seem like much, only 12.1133 litres
(notice I went to the fourth decimal)


..lol.. Yeah, it seems odd, and I can't recall what I did? I have a custom radiator, modified coolant tanks and SS tubes. Perhaps I didn't count the first few gallons..lol.. or "This value represent 50% of actual".. Who knows, subject to confirmation... Smiler
the best way is to jack up he back of the car about the top of your floor jack if possible, open the top bleeder on the radiator, add water ( water wetter advised ) fill till the water flows freely from the a fore mentioned bleeder, now start the car run for five minutes, check by opening bleeder again, don't be surprised to have MORE air evacuate the bleeder fill as needed, lower car and run to temp after it cools check again, but it should be water only at this point. The air in the system will seek the highest point in the system this is why you put the tail up in the air, forcing the water into the radiator. Many over heating problems can be traced back to air in the radiator.
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