Increasingly high oil temps

I second the suggestion that its exhaust heat intruding the lifter valley via a leak in the intake gasket.

Someone over on the DeTomaso mail list just recently experienced the identical trouble.

George

That would be me. :-)
Yes, mine was doing the same thing. It was an intake gasket leak. Your probably going through some oil as well.
Installed a new turkey tray and it solved my problem.
Felpro makes the best gasket set I've seen. Don't use the rubber ends included with the kit, they are worthless. Just run a bead of Black RTV along both ends. Be sure to use the paper gaskets against the heads, turkey tray on top of the paper gaskets. Don't over torq it down. Torq calls for 27 to 33 ft lbs on the 3/8" bolts and 21 to 25 for the 5/16" bolts.
I used 30 for the 3/8 and & 23 for the 5/16.
It's holding perfectly.

I hope it's that simple. Don't seem to be having any other problems. I hope to get to it this weekend but I have a Ford 8N for mowing. I am putting in a new engine right now and I refuse to tear down too many vehickles...vehikles....ve..dagnabit,,,,,,,Cars...and tractors!

It's a simple job Comp....Remove the fuel lines, air cleaner, throttle cable and any hoses. Leave the carb on and remove the manifold. You may have to loosen one of the valve covers. Pick the easiest side for you if you do. Make sure you clean all the surfaces before putting the new gaskets on. There is also a bolt tightening sequence for the manifold. If you don't have it, let me know and I'll post it for you.

Should take you about 2 hours. Once completed, let it sit for a couple of hours giving the RTV on the ends a chance to set up before you start it up.

quote:

Originally posted by comp2:
I hope it's that simple. Don't seem to be having any other problems. I hope to get to it this weekend but I have a Ford 8N for mowing. I am putting in a new engine right now and I refuse to tear down too many vehickles...vehikles....ve..dagnabit,,,,,,,Cars...and tractors!

Mark,

Yes, that's why I think it's real and not a guage problem. I am going to pull intake first. I have a gasket right now. We'll see how far I get on the tractor today and what I need to do fathers day. Tractor:
http://www.rc-tech.net/tract/together1.jpg

That's certainly another possibility. I have a 10 qt. oil pan. If I fill it, it runs a little hot. So I run mine at 9 qts. Pressure is good and doesn't drop when the oil starts heating up.

However, when my intake manifold had it's leak, I was losing oil at higher RPM's out of the exhaust, oil was running hot and pressure was coming down.

Roland could be right on the mark as well.

quote:

Originally posted by pantera874:
Check out, if it's overfilled. When i got my stroker, the dipstick was wrong fabricated and the motor was overfilled. I had the same symtoms until i lowered the oillevel. The crank runs thrue the oil and foames it up. Now it workes fine

Coz is right about the felpro end-seals.
I've just fitted my manifold using Felpro gasket set and I used the rubber end seals. The rear one split before I left the workshop.
The instructions with the Edelbrock manifold said "don't use the end seals, use RTV sealant" - so I should have known better .

I got the tractor back together and got the intake off yesterday. No evidence that anything is getting by. I started checking the compression and I ran out of time. First cyl was 101.

Gary

That was actually a typo. First cyl I tried was 191. Kind of high?!??! Maybe check the others tonight.

I learned the hard way too Rapier, don't feel bad.

quote:

Originally posted by Rapier:
Coz is right about the felpro end-seals.
I've just fitted my manifold using Felpro gasket set and I used the rubber end seals. The rear one split before I left the workshop.
The instructions with the Edelbrock manifold said "don't use the end seals, use RTV sealant" - so I should have known better .

I don't have a leak down checker but I have a compression tester. Here are the numbers:
Front to back:
Right Bank:
196
162
186
190
Left bank:
185
204
193
192

Isn't 200 kind of high?

This thing also has a high volume oil pump. Is it possible it could be foaming the oil?

When running a compression test higher is better. Low compression indicates a leak, either past the rings or valves. I would be more concerned about the reading of 162 then 204. You want them all with a few precentage. I thing 10% is the common rule but double check and I could be off.

You can try to squirt some oil into the low compression cylinder to see if it comes up. That would indicated ring blow-by and could raise oil temp in a round about way. Renting a leak down tester would be the final answer.

To be honest, if it runs fine (smooth across all cylinders) then it might not be a compression problem. A secondary test is to pull one plug wire at a time to see if the idle changes. Pull one plug at a time to see if the idle changes, replace and move to the next, heed all warning about being shocked. If you have a dead cylinder then one plug when pulled will have no effect on the idle this would indicate a dead cylinder.

Other then that I am stumped. Try a aftermarket oil temp gauge just to confirm your readings. For $50 it might confirm that it is a bad gauge or sender, noting all of the other problems with the Italian gauges and US senders.

Sorry, you mention a high volume oil pump. How big is the pan? Stock or a 12 qrt aftermarket? Some engines have a problem with oil return, too much oil pumps up into the top end, and not flowing back to the pan creating a oil shortage. Very unlikely that this is your problem and would only ocur in high RPM use. You would see possible low oil pressure and/or lifter noise if the oil was too low.

I would question the gauge, gauge ground, sender or voltage to the guage. Cancel out the easy stuff first.

I believe the problem to be the 160lb cyl. The reason why I questioned the high compression was that maybe it broke a ring (thus the low comp cyl). When I first tested it I had a good white plug with fresh oil on it. I thought at the time the oil had splashed in from the valley as the intake is off. I now believe that this oil is getting by the rings. This also means it was getting 160 WITH OIL in the cyl (which would make it worse). I had hoped for a quick fix so I can continue to drive till I get the new engine ready. At this point I am changing my plan of action. I should have the new engine around the beginging of Aug so I think I will begin getting the engine out and working on some other things.

I think the oil temp is correct because as it heats up, the oil pressures drop big time. The high vol pump was a bandaid for a low pressure problem. I think the engines got to come out.

http://www.rc-tech.net/pant/toplessjpg.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/pant/plug1.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/pant/plug2.jpg

Gary

Squirt some oil into the cylinder with 160 lbs pressure and see if the pressure comes up. This would check to see if the rings are the issue. At this time it might be worth renting the leak down tester to confirm. Best to double check before pulling the heads and or engine.

Was the engine sitting long before you started to drive? One other trick is to squirt automatic trans fluid into the top of the cylinder, don't fill it up too much just a few squirts. Hand crank the engine a few times and squirt a little more in. If the ring is stuck or has carbon buildup this might clean it up. A long shot but an old trick from days gone by.

I have had the car out at least once a month for a good drive. The cylinder with 160psi was already oily. The plug and the checker were both dripping. Since I have started this thread I have gotten the ball rolling on the new engine. It should be ready in a little over a month so I am going to spend my spare time getting this engine ut and getting some other things prepared. I have several things I need to do to this but I also have a couple other cars I am working on. Working for a living just takes too much time!