intake is off - couple questions

Gary,

The position of the cam shaft is what is causing the "lifters" to be uneven. Don't worry,everything is ok.
A good grade gasket remover and scraper will get rid of the gunk. 00 grade steel wool will also work well, but be careful, you don't want any of that crap to get inside the engine.
Doug M

quote:

Originally posted by fordgt:
I have the intake manifold and I have a couple questions please. At the attached picture with the 2 arrows the push rod "guides" (for lack of a better term) are about 1/4 inch higher than all of the others which set flush with the top of the block. Do I need to worry about this? Is there a fix to this?

Second question, what do I need to do to get all of the crap off of the surfaces where they mate up to the manifold?

thanks

Gary #06984

Is the liquid in the corner above the lifter anti freeze?

The large holes in the head can be gently stuffed with paper towels to catch debris.

Lay some soft towels down in the oil valley to catch debris in that area.

A purpose designed scraper, razor blades, wood chisel, any easy to control sharp edge can shave off most of the old gasket material. They make purpose designed remover, or lacquer thinner does fine. Scotch brite pads may be a better choice than steel wool, as whatever you use will flake and leave debris - the plastic fibers are most likely less an issue than steel fibers.

Scotch makes a 2-3" round set of rotary pads just for gasket removal. This would work fine on the intake manifold, but will fling stuff all around and I don't use it inside an engine such as in your case.

I see green anti-freeze in your oil galley. I'm not sure how you got it there - did you disconnect a radiator hose? You may have dumped coolant into your oil system. I would drain all oil from the pan, leave the drain plug out, and then pour a couple of fresh quarts into the oil galley to flush out any coolant that may be hanging up inside, to get it to also flush down into and out of the oil pan.

Please tell us what you did and if you know how that green liquid got there?

You have the option of using or not using the metal 'turkey tray' intake gasket. I vote to NOT use it. A good set of Felpro intake gaskets for the manifold to head gasket surface.

The gasket set will also come with cork or rubber end rail gaskets. Throw them away!

Use about a 1/4" bead of room-temperature-vulcanizing (RTV) silicone on each valley end surface of the block; use nothing on the intake manifold. I use a center punch and dimple the engine block end rails and the corresponding rails on the intake manifold to give a surface with a little better 'bite' to hold the silicone in place. Of course, all surfaces must be clean and oil free. Run the silicone bead the length of the rails and up onto the heads about 1/4" You will find about 20 different kinds of silicone at your parts store. If you don't know and trust the counterman, ignore their recommendations. If you can find it, I use a gray silicone with good results - Permatex sensor-safe Ultra Grey RTV, Item #82194

This is an easy task, but you need to be clean and follow steps. Good luck.

Larry

In your first question, you are seeing the valve lifters. Roll the engine over and you will see all of them move up and down. If one does not, then you have a problem (flat cam).

Second question, I usually use a wood chisel to scrape gaskets. They work well if you do not have a dedicated gasket scraper. Be sure to stuff each intake hole with a small rag or paper towel before so that you do not get debris down the ports. Use the shop vac to remove the towels so that as the towel comes out, all the dirt sitting around it is sucked up at the same time.

Third, the photo below will show how I hold my end gaskets in place, along with some contact adhesive.

Fourth, I worry about the green liquid in the corner. That looks like antifreeze and should not be there when a cleveland intake is removed since a cleveland does not have any coolant in the intake. Could mean cracked casting or bad head gasket.

quote:

You have the option of using or not using the metal 'turkey tray' intake gasket. I vote to NOT use it. A good set of Felpro intake gaskets for the manifold to head gasket surface.

This really depends on what intake manifold you are using, if it has the exhaust port crossover then you should use the 'turkey tray' if it doesn't then you don't need it.

I asked the question last week about the coolant and got this response from Kelly


Sometimes the two threaded holes (one is 3/8-16 and the other 5/16-18) in the front of the head pierce the coolant circuit. It's not uncommon due to a little core shift in the water jacket core. If so it may just be a little temperature induced expansion of your coolant back through these holes. You may want to add a little sealant to these screws when you reinstall your intake or you may end up with a coolant leak throught the screws.


What do you think?


That is the amount of seepage since last week.
By the way I am using an Edlebrock Performer manifold.

That sounds reasonable, but you will want those threads sealed. Also if you dont want this to leak or seep, clean, clean & clean. Use an evaporating type of cleaner on all surfaces & especially in the corners, numerous times. the idea is to get all oils out of the area so your sealant can adhere and seep into these areas.
I like permatex, but there are alot of sealants out there.

Happy Pantera, No Leaks

Mark

Great advice is being given....my two cents worth. I like to use a shop vac just prior to starting the installation process to clean up any pieces that may have gotten in the valley or intake ports.
Jeff