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I have a set of recently baked and blasted 4V iron quench heads (D1AE-GA casting) with pitted seats.  I was told that they might need new seat inserts so that the valves don't sit too far into the head.  They have bronze guide inserts that hold the valves tight, and the decks appear very clean but who knows if they need resurfacing.  Spring seat areas are grooved.  They need new valves, springs, retainers, etc. but are machined for screw-in studs.  

Should I keep them?  I have a Parker Funnel Web intake and intake port stuffers to go with.  I was considering two alternates:  

1.  Ditch both and buy a set of Trick Flow cleveland aluminum 2V heads & matching EFI lower intake.  I have always planned to run EFI and DIS.

2.  Keep the Parker and get a set of AFD 4V 220 cc aluminum heads from Mikes Speed Parts.  The Parker intake has injector bosses cast into it.


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I went for the 4V CHI alloy heads, 60cc chambers, 11:1 compression.
Ferrea 6000 Series Valves, Isky 9005 Valve Springs, Chrome Moly Retainers, Moly Valve Locks and spring locators etc.
All that gear comes standard in the heads.
Eight throttle body injection controlled by a Motec.
Has turned the engine from a pussycat into a rabid beast.
Instead of that lazy V8 throttle response it now picks up its revs like a bike engine, almost instant.
No more carbie flat spots or constant tune ups required.
Starts easy like a modern car, but still has that lumpy idle due to the warm Camshaft.



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  • Injection___heads_2_copy
Okay, the awesome and ALWAYS helpful POCA forum consensus is to ditch the iron and go aluminum, given the cost of what the iron heads need. A set of Cleveland Trick Flow 190cc heads runs $1850, assembled with nice valves. They might need better retainers & springs to match the chosen cam according to my chosen engine rebuilder. I think there's around $1000 difference between the aluminum and the iron, by the time I sell the iron and intake and also purchase the EFI upper & lower intakes.


Pitted Seats: (best picture- no macro lens)

The valves were in this condition when I pulled it apart:

Last edited by George P
The seats don't look terrible from here but the valves are toast.

You should look at the flow numbers that Dan Jones did on the original closed chambered iron heads. They flow quite well with numbers very much like the current batch of aluminum heads.

You just don't take a die grinder to them and expect them to flow but they take little work in the pockets and a professional 3 angle precision valve job and they are surprising.

In Pro-stock days, with racers like Dyno Don Nicholson, those heads were supporting something like 800 hp on a 357 inch displacement. On the stock iron crank and stock 4 bolt block.

Sure there were trick factory aluminum heads and blocks but those were for match races.

A lot of the game of the current aluminum heads is glitz. An iron head engine can make 500hp naturally aspirated on the street and is drivable.

Read the flow numbers. You need a lot of lift. That translates into a lot of cam. If you are not willing to put up with the drawbacks of that, then you are wasting your money on the heads.

The heads, regardless of who makes them now and how much you pay for them will not make a 351 pull like a 427.
Last edited by panteradoug
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