KONI SHOCK ABSORBER BUSHINGS

Hi Dick, hope you are well.

They dont need to be rubber. Have some turned from Delrin and use the original steel sleeve.

Regards, Johnny

Thanks Johnny.
I will try that. Why use the sleeve at all?

Dick Ruzzin

quote:

Originally posted by Dick Ruzzin:
Thanks Johnny.
I will try that. Why use the sleeve at all?

Dick Ruzzin

1. So the Bushing can Rotate around the Bolt and Not Bind/Squeak. Grease the Bolt and Sleeve.
2. The Bolt Minus the Sleeve would More Easily 'Cut' into the Plastic.
3. The Sleeve Prevents the Bushing from being Crushed when the Bolt is Torqued Up.

quote:

Originally posted by Marlin Jack:

quote:

Originally posted by Dick Ruzzin:
Thanks Johnny.
I will try that. Why use the sleeve at all?

Dick Ruzzin

1. So the Bushing can Rotate around the Bolt and Not Bind/Squeak. Grease the Bolt and Sleeve.
2. The Bolt Minus the Sleeve would More Easily 'Cut' into the Plastic.
3. The Sleeve Prevents the Bushing from being Crushed when the Bolt is Torqued Up.

Is this a test?
I'll choose #3

The sleeve inside the bushing, at the center, is obviously there to take the wear from the bolt if it rotates.
I am talking about the sleeve on the outside of the bushing that interfaces with the inside of the shock when the bushingis pressed in.

If you make a bushing with a substitute material then you probably do not need the outside sleeve.

DICK RUZZIN

My illustraction with 4 different setups was from a past discussion. the lower left is an example of plastic inserts and using a sleeve to prevent the tighten of the bolt from clamping down on the insert. thus when the bolt is tighten, the sleeve becomes fixed to the frame "ears" and bolt.

as for the need for the outer sleeve. the lower left illustration is what I have observed as being sold. However, I noticed that the interferance between the shock blue and the plastic insert would be a thin (possibly sharp) that could "slice" of the lips of the insert. while this would work the majority of the uses,

However, if the application was severe duty, I could see the need to use an outer sleeve that had a smooth outside radius, provided a larger OD for not slicing the insert's lip

Hi everybody. I`m currently refurbishing 4 Konis and 4 Aristons (also made by Koni). I sent an Email yesterday to Koni regarding the bushings. Will post the reply as soon as I get it. The thin steel sleeve mentioned by Dick is there to facilitate the insertion of the rubber bushing into the eyelet It`s a press fit (a.k.a. interference fit)and would be very difficult without that steel sleeve hugging the rubber bushing. It should be flush with the eyelet. The inner steel sleeve where the bolt goes through should be longer than the outer sleeve. In my case I measured 6mm. This insures the proper functioning of the sleeve/bushing unit as described by Johnny.
I found a manufacturing company here in Germany that makes bushings almost identical to the original ones. Should Koni not come through with some information, I will have to order them from them.
Good luck

Hi, can you please give me the address from the German company for the Koni bushes?

thanks
Simon

Gummi-metal-puffer-shop.de
emmetec.com
sd-dresden.de

Hope this helps you!

Thanks,
Simon

Check with Roger Brotton in the UK. I believe he had these made...... Not cheap.

Not sure if they were made from natural rubber like the originals or something MUCH more modern.

I bought NOS bushings back when for my KONI's up front, and they looked like the 20 year old bushings in about 6 months! That rubber is as soft as bubble gum and useless where applied!

Cheers!
Steve