Any thoughts or anyone own the 5000# drive on model ? Can be seen @ http://www.kwiklift.com
With low ceilings in the garage I am lift height restricted. This model will provide 20" of lift and the option to remove wheels.
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
quote:Julian, any idea what they cost?
quote:Originally posted by Backmarker:
Any thoughts or anyone own the 5000# drive on model ? Can be seen @ http://www.kwiklift.com
With low ceilings in the garage I am lift height restricted. This model will provide 20" of lift and the option to remove wheels.
quote:Originally posted by TomCat: I have a 4-pole Direct Lift (with casters) with a 9' ceiling in my garage...It's not great for working on tires/wheels/brakes (since the car still sits on the tires BUT I think it does EVERYTHING else great.
quote:Originally posted by Joules5:
I'd second the jacks for the 4 post lift. I have the Direct lift and shelled out the extra for the package with two jacks and do not regret it.
Julisn
quote:Originally posted by Panterror:quote:Originally posted by TomCat: I have a 4-pole Direct Lift (with casters) with a 9' ceiling in my garage...It's not great for working on tires/wheels/brakes (since the car still sits on the tires BUT I think it does EVERYTHING else great.
Have you looked into a sliding jack stand? They're pretty pricy (I paid $400 but this ad says $495) but I must say it really makes working on your 4 corners a pleasure. I have enough clearance for my Pantera and even GT40 (though barely) without 2by timbers. Plenty of jack for a sports cars. Dont know if that would be the case for big SUV but maybe.
http://www.bestbuyautoequipmen...0-p/pro-jack3500.htm
Kelly
quote:Originally posted by TomCat: Do you have any mis-givinga about being under the car when you are physically moving the jacking handle?
I wonder if you could add some length to the hand pump and do the lifting "remotely".
quote:Originally posted by Panterror:quote:Originally posted by TomCat: Do you have any mis-givinga about being under the car when you are physically moving the jacking handle?
I wonder if you could add some length to the hand pump and do the lifting "remotely".
It's a fair point and good self preservation thought but I'd answer your question that I have no misgivings at all. When I use the sliding jack, the wheels are still on the car and it's only typically being lifted enough to exceed the travel of suspension and get the wheels an inch or two off the lift. If the jack fails during this time it will only fall an inch back onto its wheels and the suspension settle. The sliding jack has a stout mechanical interlock that I utilize to rest the car and don't rely on the hydraulic cylinder. It also has good telescoping arms and pads so it is easy to place the points at a strong and stable location. I typically only have one end up at a time and the other pair of wheels are locked and chocked. Before the other set of actually wheels come off I throw blocks between the chassis and lift platform before the wheels come off just in case, but I can honestly say, IMO, it is much more stable and safe than laying under a car on jack stands on a concrete floor. The vast majority of deaths are from suffication from people working alone who get pinned under a car that has fallen off of what is usually a poorly suspended car. The threat with four post lifts is the whole lift falling, and IMO, if you use a little common sense and keep the work fairly light in nature, this is not a problem either. I bought a Back Yard Buddy and paid extra bucks because I like their posts, locking features and the overall stability of the lift compared to others since I wanted to do light service in addition to storage. If I die in a car related accident, I'll much more likely be behind the wheel than under the car.
Best,
Kelly