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Now it's time to share my prodject. Try to turn my L into a GR4. When I started to tare it down I found like many of you rust party so I had to start welding and making new parts.

Here is a pic from how the car lock before taredown

Taking out the engine:

Then the rust work started:

It's just cuting and cut... Roll Eyes

Then I started with the jack to see if it where more rust. Suprice! I found some more in the front. I started to cut and cut some more!

In the end I had to cut most of the front, make new parts and build up again.

Here the strip is on it's way:

When I took out the carpet, I tought It was rust on the floorpans but lucky me only the same color.

When I got the GR4 flars I had to test fit them. This is original from the factory so the fit was good.

The sidemarkers had to go:

The wintermonths here in Norway can be hard and cold... so internet and Visa is good to have. Had to have some more power in the cat!

Complete long block assembled by Roush Yates Engines
Ford dry sump racing block R451
Bryant 8 counterweight racing crankshaft
Top of the line connecting rods
Forged pistons
Roush Yates spec'd roller camshaft with 55mm roller cam bearings
Jesel dogbone lifters
Yates D3 aluminum cylinder heads (fully ported for maximum performance)
Roush Yates Engines rocker arms
Titanium Valves
Roush Yates 2 piece valve covers with oilers
5 Stage dry sump pump with lines
Custom oil pump with 4 pickup points
Roush Yates Front belt drive assembly
ATI balancer
Stewart EMP water pump
High output alternator
All pulleys and brackets

Engine Family V8 Windsor Ford
Specification / Name Solid Roller Cam Engine
Displacement 358 Cubic Inches
Compression Approx. 12:1
Approx. 800 HP
Torque N/A
Weight 430 Lbs.

Block Ford Motorsports Iron Block
Deck Height 9.00"
Bore 4.150" or larger
Stroke 3.260" - 3.300" depending on bore size
Cylinder Head Yates D3 Aluminum prepared by Roush Yates Engines
Intake Valve Size 2.150"
Exhaust Valve Size 1.650"
Valve Accuation Roush Yates Engines
Cam / Lifter Type Solid Roller
Oil System 5 Stage Dry Sump
Induction Carburetor (not included)
Fuel Type Designed for Unleaded Sunoco Race Fuel
Ignition N/A

Got some insperation from DeMopuar about tranny!

Santa deliver:

New Ricardo, same as in Ford GT:

New shifter:

Importent, I need something to stop the car:

As parts come out they need to be cleaned:

Had to remove the lights in the front as they look like a bad fisheys:

When I'm going to have 180' they had to go:

Then the exiting days started:

As you can see it's still a lot of work. Hope you enjoy!!
Last edited {1}
Original Post
WOW! I think I said that before.

If you have questions, please come here to ask. Also, we would all love to see your progress. I would especially love to see what clutch setup you are using along with the starter placement. If I may ask, it looks like a new Ricardo transaxle -- can you give us some more details on where you acquired it? Was it difficult to find?

Very interesting -- I applaud your work and the best of luck with getting it done!

Thanks guys! For me this is as much fun as to drive the car. I work in the North sea on an oilrig. My shift is 14 days on work and 30 days off work. So I have time for my hobby and I’m loving it!
Like Mark say it's a 2005 - 2006 Ford GT, Ricardo 6 speed. This I bought in England from a guy that worked at Ricardo and now started his owne company, selling Ricardo tranny’s. Good with this one is that it has all the new upgrades.

Clutch setup: This was a difficult task, My friend Eric at SwarrAuto help me with this. Spec is making the clutch and the flywheel for me but the starter wheel Eric got from a friend of him. Ford don’t sell this loose only complete clutch kit and that’s $$$$$$ when I can only use the starter wheel.

Will: Your car look amazing! Your look and finish and Mark's engine and tranny Cool

Last edited by be4you
You right Pat can't use 98 octane. I'm going to drive with 116 octane racing fuel. When I get the engine mid-June I will dyno it and make adjustment for Norwegian condition... let’s say cold weather Frowner and humidity.
First when I bought the engine I was thinking about converting it to ethanol (E85) but when I so the cost and the amount of kilometer I will drive the car a year, I found out I can drive the car for 3 seasons on racing fuel to go breakeven.
HockeyDude: I and half to rebuild. Must widen the engine bay sins the Ricardo is much wider than the ZF

Patrick: If I only live in Belgium.. have family in Antwerp so I should import. No It cost about 6 Euro per liter, 26 USD per gallon here in Norway.
Normal 98 octane pump gas cost about 8,5 USD per gallon

Got the car up this weekend and removed all the chassi components so now it's ready for sand blasting.

Have you considered water/alcohol injection for the octane issue? A system may cost $400 USD; it appears that it may pay for itself and be much more convenient. The new computer-controlled systems should be much more effective than the old "windshield washer pump" versions.

It is sad that engines only need the octane during high torque and large throttle openings. The rest of the time the octane requirements are much lower.
Good to see you are still making progress.

I was surprised when I saw the engine/transaxle photo as I would have thought the Ricardo to sit much lower than it does due to the Ford GT having a smaller dry sump oil pan.

I am thinking to do the reverse using a Ford GT powerplant with a ZF transaxle (or maybe an Xtrac sequential). I think the ZF can handle it and the FGT can produce a reliable 700HP without too much fettling.

Last edited by joules
Beautiful. Looks like you got a pretty solid car body to work with as well.

Can you show the other side of the engine/transaxle? Would like to see how the starter hooks up to the flywheel -- assuming you have gotten that far. The Spec clutch looks great too.

Did the bellhousing from the Ricardo hook right up to the Roush engine bolt pattern?

Nice. Keep the information coming!

It’s time consuming this build. Need to be 100% strait and I Tig weld everything.
Think the block on the GT is taller and wider. I use the six top bolt holes on the tranny and had to change the position of the guide pins. the rest line up as stock. Don't have pic of the clutch and starter hocked up.

I was also looking at Xtrac but it's very expensive and to noisy for my streetcar.

As you can see on the pic I cut and removed the old steel, so tomorrow I will do some welding and start the drop of the engine an tranny


Small update from Norway Smiler
After blasting the rest of the body some surprise from the Swedish guy who claim to restore the car started to show Mad

Here are some pictures of what I find after blasting!

I just had to take the grainder and start cutting. everything was coverd in a 1/2" bondo.

After the car came home I had to build a jig so I can level the car.

Now the jig is level and I level the car on the jig and welded the car to the jig.

Her I have gut away the inner rocker and started to fit the outer rocker... Had to make new rocker when the old one was strait and not curved.

Her you can see the rocker start to fit, put on the flairs and the curve is not that bad... just need a little adjustment and tomorrow I will attracts the door.. will see if it fits

Need to cut the quarter panel to remove the nice work done to it applause

More work than expected Smiler
Last edited by be4you
This is my first look at this thread and all I can say is WOW! BIG PROJECT with a lot of great work. Very interesting to see what you're doing to the chassis/frame to handle the amazing new engine and transaxle. Any plans on to further stiffen the monocoque(add a roll cage...maybe I missed it)? Seems like with all that power and goodies to get it to the ground there will be chassis twist.
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