The video of the white Japanese Pantera seems to have been removed.
I think those were FI throttle bodies though?
Certainly the linkage wasn't anything that I have seen on Webers?
The stacks in that one look to be about 5"?
I contcted Borla, and t seems they may be able to make me a set o 5"ers.
Then I'd have 9 lol.
Then I'd have 9 lol.
Borla got back to me. They're going to have to make a new set from billet, and it's gonna cost a cool G.
I'm gonna have to put that one on the backburner for a spell, althogh, my car WILL have 5" velocity stacks someday soon here, along with the flat black paint/wrap treatments, and Snow White will have a sexy little set of changes that will improve her look a lot I think.
I'm gonna have to put that one on the backburner for a spell, althogh, my car WILL have 5" velocity stacks someday soon here, along with the flat black paint/wrap treatments, and Snow White will have a sexy little set of changes that will improve her look a lot I think.
Mine were $240 for the set. The screens were $.97 each.
You DO NOT want the rolled over edges on top. You CAN NOT put screens on them. You would have to go to the screens that drop into the throat of the stacks. Those are VERY restrictive.
You DO NOT want the rolled over edges on top. You CAN NOT put screens on them. You would have to go to the screens that drop into the throat of the stacks. Those are VERY restrictive.
quote:Borla got back to me. They're going to have to make a new set from billet, and it's gonna cost a cool G.
What's money to the owner of an exotic Italian supercar?
That's a distributor cap, and an oil change to the Ferrari crowd!
Looking back on the ad for my car, it says my IR bodies are 48mm.
Does this make anything easier?
I see some ebay offerings that say they come in 48mm, but they're straight, and steel, and I'd rather have tapered and aluminum.
If I could get my hands on a set of 48's like Panterdoug's, I know I could have the mounts welded myself.
Does this make anything easier?
I see some ebay offerings that say they come in 48mm, but they're straight, and steel, and I'd rather have tapered and aluminum.
If I could get my hands on a set of 48's like Panterdoug's, I know I could have the mounts welded myself.
OK. Let's try this again? I thought I posted this link but I don't see it now.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/T...-550-p/52840.550.htm
I think that you can use these but will either need to use the mounting tabs for the 48ida's or make your own?
IF you could get hold of a "stock" 48 ida Weber velocity stack and try them on your TB's you can confirm or deny them?
I am surprised that there is so little help coming your way with this issue?
It could simply be that the individual EFI guys don't talk to the Weber carb people?
Inglese SHOULD know this.
If you can't find anyone locally to lend you a Weber stack, I can. I just thought it would be no BFD to find a local to lend you one?
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/T...-550-p/52840.550.htm
I think that you can use these but will either need to use the mounting tabs for the 48ida's or make your own?
IF you could get hold of a "stock" 48 ida Weber velocity stack and try them on your TB's you can confirm or deny them?
I am surprised that there is so little help coming your way with this issue?
It could simply be that the individual EFI guys don't talk to the Weber carb people?
Inglese SHOULD know this.
If you can't find anyone locally to lend you a Weber stack, I can. I just thought it would be no BFD to find a local to lend you one?
I hadn't considered asking anyone to borrow an IDA stack. I'll try calling a VW shop and see what I can dig up.
couldn't you take one of yours off, trace the flange and bolt spacing. then use that to find a match?
looks like some one would make a short base with a "coupling" that would allow you to change stack lenght as desired.
besides containing exhuast inversion and looking cool, does the tall stack provide a performance advantage
looks like some one would make a short base with a "coupling" that would allow you to change stack lenght as desired.
besides containing exhuast inversion and looking cool, does the tall stack provide a performance advantage
Just called Englese, they don't have anything, discontinued, on their site all they have is 3.5" tall stacks.
I'm going to call around to try and find an IDA stack to see of I can work with that. I can have mounting tabs welded on easily enough.
I'm going to call around to try and find an IDA stack to see of I can work with that. I can have mounting tabs welded on easily enough.
quote:Originally posted by JFB #05177:
couldn't you take one of yours off, trace the flange and bolt spacing. then use that to find a match?
looks like some one would make a short base with a "coupling" that would allow you to change stack lenght as desired.
besides containing exhuast inversion and looking cool, does the tall stack provide a performance advantage
I think that many of these throttle bodies are actually second generation derivatives from the 48 ida's.
You need an actual Weber stack in your hands to see if the stack fits in the TB and if it does what are the complications...if any.
I'll lend you one. Keep it as long as you want. Send it back eventually.
With Priority Mail it is two to three days away and will answer a million questions in just one try.
The tabs are not welded on the IDA's. They are loose tabs or fingers that apply pressure to a ring that is integral to the stack.
Inglese isn't everything. In some cases, not all, I have better, more specific information that he does. He's more generic because of the nature of what he does. I'm item specific.
That's a big difference.
...oh, and I don't cost anything either. Just one little drive...let's see, where's 10,000 rpm on the tach?
Success!
I found an outfit that had 8 aluminum stacks and I ordered them up.
We were pretty much on the same page as far as 48mm and IDF mounting, so (knocking on wood) all should hopefully work out well.
I've got some cool ideas using my air cleaner baseplate, and foam, to seal the underside of the stacks from debris being blown up from underneath the decklid, and I'm going to add side scoops where my side windows used to be.
I'm going to use Panteradoug's rubber screen mounting trick (if he'll show me), and some screens on the side window scoops ought to have my setup seeing clean air and looking as cool as it gets IMO.
I found an outfit that had 8 aluminum stacks and I ordered them up.
We were pretty much on the same page as far as 48mm and IDF mounting, so (knocking on wood) all should hopefully work out well.
I've got some cool ideas using my air cleaner baseplate, and foam, to seal the underside of the stacks from debris being blown up from underneath the decklid, and I'm going to add side scoops where my side windows used to be.
I'm going to use Panteradoug's rubber screen mounting trick (if he'll show me), and some screens on the side window scoops ought to have my setup seeing clean air and looking as cool as it gets IMO.
I have some o-rings for that which I never used.
They are for making the GT40 type cookie tray.
The o-ring fits into an aluminum, or better yet clear plexiglass sheet.
The o-rings sit around the throat of the velocity stacks.
I would recommend the clear lexan so you can see what's going on underneath.
The problem with this setup is it positively seals you away from access quickly under the sheet.
On the FI that is probably less of an issue than with the IDA Webers. Those you need instant access to the throttle linkage or else you are inviting a problem.
What problem? That is unknown. That is the issue...access instantly to an unknown or unforeseeable issue.
They are for making the GT40 type cookie tray.
The o-ring fits into an aluminum, or better yet clear plexiglass sheet.
The o-rings sit around the throat of the velocity stacks.
I would recommend the clear lexan so you can see what's going on underneath.
The problem with this setup is it positively seals you away from access quickly under the sheet.
On the FI that is probably less of an issue than with the IDA Webers. Those you need instant access to the throttle linkage or else you are inviting a problem.
What problem? That is unknown. That is the issue...access instantly to an unknown or unforeseeable issue.
What you describe is what I had in mind, but I'm going to use my lower air cleaner plate, held in place by large O-rings, with foam around the underside of the decklid to form a seal.
This will keep crap from being sucked up from under the car and up above the decklid.
Then I plan to fabricate some side window air scoops (or buy some pre-made ones), add some screens to those too, and along with your rubber screen trick, I should have the look I'm going for, with little to no restriction, and it should stay relatively crap-free while driving down the old dusty trail.
This will keep crap from being sucked up from under the car and up above the decklid.
Then I plan to fabricate some side window air scoops (or buy some pre-made ones), add some screens to those too, and along with your rubber screen trick, I should have the look I'm going for, with little to no restriction, and it should stay relatively crap-free while driving down the old dusty trail.
Scoops replacing the windows work but when they are made out of solid materials they will block your view necessary for picking up cars in the blindspots.
I have the "factory" fiberglass "bat ears" but put them on the shelf and this is the scoop I'm using now. It is vacuum molded out of clear lexan.
The screws you see are necessary to hold the gasket to the car at speeds somewhere over about 75 mph.
The scoops catch enough air that they will get ripped out otherwise.
Functionally some have found that it is better to just take out the glass and run without it.
It sure helps a lot for additional access to the engine compartment.
Unfortunately you can't leave the car parked anywhere unattended either. For one thing little pecker heads with screw drivers will come trying to pry the medallions off of the car to put onto their stunt bikes.
The other thing is they will start grabbing at things on the car like the scoops to see if they will come off of the car with a yank.
I'm working on a security system that when it is turned on, if you touch the car and you are grounded, you get a jolt of full power from the battery through anything metallic.
I want to test it on those little wankers that you see at the beach with the frizzy hair and the clogs. I want to see it the battery turns their hair straight? I'd prefer their hair to catch fire but that might be considered extreme by a third party? I'm not sure about that yet?
Unfortunately my version of "the club" doesn't work in the Pantera. There is no place for the 400# gorilla to hide in it but just the thought of one popping out of the trunk with a club and using it on the perpetrator is like Schwepps..."curiously refreshing"?
I have the "factory" fiberglass "bat ears" but put them on the shelf and this is the scoop I'm using now. It is vacuum molded out of clear lexan.
The screws you see are necessary to hold the gasket to the car at speeds somewhere over about 75 mph.
The scoops catch enough air that they will get ripped out otherwise.
Functionally some have found that it is better to just take out the glass and run without it.
It sure helps a lot for additional access to the engine compartment.
Unfortunately you can't leave the car parked anywhere unattended either. For one thing little pecker heads with screw drivers will come trying to pry the medallions off of the car to put onto their stunt bikes.
The other thing is they will start grabbing at things on the car like the scoops to see if they will come off of the car with a yank.
I'm working on a security system that when it is turned on, if you touch the car and you are grounded, you get a jolt of full power from the battery through anything metallic.
I want to test it on those little wankers that you see at the beach with the frizzy hair and the clogs. I want to see it the battery turns their hair straight? I'd prefer their hair to catch fire but that might be considered extreme by a third party? I'm not sure about that yet?
Unfortunately my version of "the club" doesn't work in the Pantera. There is no place for the 400# gorilla to hide in it but just the thought of one popping out of the trunk with a club and using it on the perpetrator is like Schwepps..."curiously refreshing"?
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My windows are already removed, and I agree, it Does make it exponentially easier to work on the car with the windows removed.
As hard as these cars are to work on, I'll take anything I can get! lol
As hard as these cars are to work on, I'll take anything I can get! lol
Stacks arrived today. They look fantastic.
I'll try to get them installed here shortly.
I plan to utilize the lower air cleaner plate to help seal off the decklid, and also to hold the temp sensor that's mounted into one side.
The correct O-rings ought to let me position my baseplate where I need it.
Some 1' or 1.5" foam, cut to shape ought to help finish the seal between the decklid and air cleaner base. Then I'll have my stacks sticking out, all sexy and all, and then I plan to install the screens like Panteradoug's setup.
I think it may even improve performance a little, but that's not important. These stacks are for looks.
Tomorrow morning I go on my search for O-rings and foam sheets.
The end result is gonna be SICK!
I'll try to get them installed here shortly.
I plan to utilize the lower air cleaner plate to help seal off the decklid, and also to hold the temp sensor that's mounted into one side.
The correct O-rings ought to let me position my baseplate where I need it.
Some 1' or 1.5" foam, cut to shape ought to help finish the seal between the decklid and air cleaner base. Then I'll have my stacks sticking out, all sexy and all, and then I plan to install the screens like Panteradoug's setup.
I think it may even improve performance a little, but that's not important. These stacks are for looks.
Tomorrow morning I go on my search for O-rings and foam sheets.
The end result is gonna be SICK!
How about some pictures?
A stack of stack pictures... 