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I believe I have TWM IR's on my car, which I believe use the same mountings as Webers for the stacks (2 screws). I believe they are 48 or 50mm.

Presently I have a short set that I use with an air cleaner setup, but I was thinking if I came across a set of 4" stacks for cheap enough, I might jump on a set for the occasional times I want to show off the injection.
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I found that TWM was bought out by Borla. I will have to measure to find out if they have longer stacks available.

I also think I'll be switching to a crank-trigger ignition, with Electromotive ECU.

Price is right for the whole system, I can install it myself.

This will be in a few months.
How about 5"? Will those fit? Show me a picture of how your stacks mount to the throttle bodies.

These are the stacks for the Webers. They have no mounting flanges. They are held in place by mounting tabs.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/T...-550-p/52840.550.htm

I found this picture of what you had previously posted.

The 48 IDA is a different mounting method then yours are which are like the Delorto carbs or the Weber IDF series.

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  • MTS_velocity_stacks
Last edited by panteradoug
quote:
Originally posted by 4NHOTROD:
Careful of the screens you use. My old ones cost me over 50hp.


The best screen mesh has a 46% flow rate. In other words you loose 54% of the flow, more or less. So you need a screen with about twice the surface area of the stack intake to compensate.

I have not seen any that are premade like that. You actually need to make your own.

There are a couple of vintage pictures of Indy and Can-Am cars with that kind of screen on the stacks. I can't say that I have saved any of them.

The hard ass race teams understood this and the concept of not sucking in something under full throttle so this idea is not new.

God gave us all a brain with high capacity and some with operational capabilities? If you need to fall back on anything, this would be a good time. Hopefully it won't give you a migraine?
Last edited by panteradoug
These are the 5" tall stacks for 48 IDA's. With the screens they fit under the roof with about 1" of clearance over the screens which are about 1-1/2" high.

You need to make your own screens for them. These are mine. These have a surface area 247% of what a flat screen would. That means there should be virtually no restriction to them. Less anyway.

These, the tall stacks, also help with the fuel reversion caused by a conventional non-"Weber specific" cam with a high overlap. The cloud stays more in the stack because of their greater than stock height.

The Pantera can run them. Other cars don't have the hood clearances for them.

These are spun aluminum. Really nice stuff.


Stainless screens and rings, a la Shoppe d'Doug. Don't like 'em? Don't look at 'em. Read it and weep. Wink

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  • 2015-07-16_07.46.13
Last edited by panteradoug
I'm kind of striking out finding tall aluminum velocity stacks for my setup.

I'd love to find some 5" aluminum stacks similar to the shorties I have, and then I could do Panteradoug's screen trick to that.

I might settle for the steel versions if I can find a set that fits.

I may have to find someone who can help me mod mine, weld a center section in place.
Send him the pic of your stacks. It might help him.


I don't know how the 51mm designation on yours effects the situation?

The picture I posted should fit yours. At least the bolt pattern will and the trumpets themselves appear to be the same ones that I have.

IF your intention is to attach the screens like I have then you do not want the rolled over edges on top. There is no "flange for the rubber ring to attach to like on mine.



You are going to have to do something with keeping water out of all of them but mostly on #4 and #8. Those two will be completely exposed since the roof does not cover them.

The others although they are open as well are tucked up under the roof.

You just have to wash the car from a garden hose carefully with those. It can't go into a carwash any more (as if it ever did).

The Pantera "sugar scoop" roof spoiler that came on th L's becomes functional with an IR induction system especially with tall ram stacks like this. It directs the air coming over the roof into the intake area of the stacks.



The taller stacks also change the frequency of the sound that the engine makes at full throttle. I suppose it is like playing a trombone which has a slide tube to change the notes it plays.


Someone had actually done a flow test on these things and said that the wider mouth opening increased the flow through each runner by 25cfm over the stock Weber stacks. It seems like a lot but there is logic to a reduction in restriction of flow.

I think it was one of the VW people but they don't use the tall stacks like this, just the wide mouth stacks.

How this effects a TB system, I don't know? You will find out.



On 48 IDA's you can change the "venturis" and that does effect the flow of the carburetor.

Stock, IDA-4's come with 37mm "chokes" (venturis). The Ford GT40's used 42mm ones and those carbs were designated as IDA-1.

This is all with 48mm throttle bores. Yours are using 51 mm throttle bores so those give the engine different characteristics in where the "torque curve" comes "in" as does the id of the header tubes and their lengths.

WEBER says the 48 IDA system with 37mm chokes flows 2400 cfm. 300cfm x2 x 4 carbs. That is 300cfm per intake throat. That is right around where you want them but is becoming restrictive right there.

42mm would be better putting the system right around 320-330cfm especially with a less restrictive "trumpet". Now you can see how changing these parts "tunes" the intake flow and power range of the engine?

This is also where the lift of the camshaft has to put the intake flow of your heads into the 300 to 330 cfm vicinity. That information is determined on the flow bench.

From what I have seen the lift of the cam needs to be .600 or more and lifts over about .630 no longer are adding any contribution to that flow. They are just adding unnecessary stress to the valve train? BUT even if they did, the induction is already at it's limit and maxed out. Wink

ALSO, I too am using that Hall Pantera intake manifold. Even though a 51mm throttle plate will flow more cfm, the manifold runners are at their limit somewhere right around there (as cast). The runners right under the flanges need to be worked in order to use the additional flow.

On mine, that flange was as delivered machined exactly at 48mm.

On yours, you would see that immediately when the TB's were off for the o-ring repair. You would see on the mounting flanges where there was work with a die grinder done AND the throttle plate opening in the intake flange enlarged to 51mm.

I have had BOTH of the Hall manifolds and there is a diffeence in the casting between the original 4v head manifold and the A3 "raised port" manifold. You want the "raised port" manifold. It has better line of sight to the intake valve but that only matters if your throttle plates open on the inside rather than the outside of the port. You gain throttle response opening on the outside.



If you noticed the rpms used in the youtube of the blue Pantera on the track, it never goes above 6700 rpm and rarely below about 4,000rpm. That is where that car is "tuned".

Simply put, you do not need an engine that turns over 7,000 rpm. As tuned it will even pull with a 427 which is what I said about driving a 427 Cobra and a Gp4 on the same day.

I actually thought the Pantera was faster. It certainly was dialed in better than the Cobra was.



With a Pantera with IRS, independent runner system induction, you are actually tuning the system to the car and the way the engine and induction fit into the body of the car. If you put this exact system into another body and chassis, you need to start all over again. It will not be the same solution and it will not give you the same results. Big Grin



OH! Almost forgot! There was an Aussie selling stacks to fit both setups on Ebay. His solution was to take a 48 IDA stack and make bolt on flanges that clamped the stack to whatever you were using. That made the stack a modular system by the adjustable bolt on clamps.

Trouble is I can't seem to find the guy now? I will search again later.
My engine I was told has C3L heads, and with the TWM injection manifolds, looking down the throats it looks as if everything has been matched.

The engine pulls WAY past 7000, but I really won't ever be revving it that high. I'm just happy to have it back up and running.

The taller stacks I want mainly for looks. I know their lengths affect the engine behavior, lots of engines have telescopic stacks to take advantage of this (Mazda, Ducati, KTM, all used, and presently use variable length velocity stacks).

IMO there's just nothing cooler than 8 tall stacks sticking up high like the ones in the video of the white Pantera.

I hope to run 5" stacks with the same screens and rubber attachment that Panteradoug has goin on.

Not worried about water. Car's on slicks, and will never see water or rain. Washing's done by hand and polish and spray bottles.
quote:

I hope to run 5" stacks with the same screens and rubber attachment that Panteradoug has goin on.



Big Grin



[/QUOTE]
Not worried about water. Car's on slicks, and will never see water or rain. Washing's done by hand and polish and spray bottles.[/QUOTE]



I try to prepare the car for the unexpected. Here in the east this time of the year it is not unusual to get sudden deluge out of no where.


Albert Hammond - "It never rains in California"


Also you have to look out for someone else's kid or maybe a girlfriend who wants to help out and surprise you...the car... with a surprise wash job. Wink


I wash my engine too. "it's a clean machine". Cool
Borla got back to me. They're going to have to make a new set from billet, and it's gonna cost a cool G.

I'm gonna have to put that one on the backburner for a spell, althogh, my car WILL have 5" velocity stacks someday soon here, along with the flat black paint/wrap treatments, and Snow White will have a sexy little set of changes that will improve her look a lot I think.
Looking back on the ad for my car, it says my IR bodies are 48mm.

Does this make anything easier?

I see some ebay offerings that say they come in 48mm, but they're straight, and steel, and I'd rather have tapered and aluminum.

If I could get my hands on a set of 48's like Panterdoug's, I know I could have the mounts welded myself.
OK. Let's try this again? I thought I posted this link but I don't see it now.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/T...-550-p/52840.550.htm

I think that you can use these but will either need to use the mounting tabs for the 48ida's or make your own?

IF you could get hold of a "stock" 48 ida Weber velocity stack and try them on your TB's you can confirm or deny them?

I am surprised that there is so little help coming your way with this issue?

It could simply be that the individual EFI guys don't talk to the Weber carb people?

Inglese SHOULD know this.

If you can't find anyone locally to lend you a Weber stack, I can. I just thought it would be no BFD to find a local to lend you one?
couldn't you take one of yours off, trace the flange and bolt spacing. then use that to find a match?

looks like some one would make a short base with a "coupling" that would allow you to change stack lenght as desired.

besides containing exhuast inversion and looking cool, does the tall stack provide a performance advantage
quote:
Originally posted by JFB #05177:
couldn't you take one of yours off, trace the flange and bolt spacing. then use that to find a match?

looks like some one would make a short base with a "coupling" that would allow you to change stack lenght as desired.

besides containing exhuast inversion and looking cool, does the tall stack provide a performance advantage


I think that many of these throttle bodies are actually second generation derivatives from the 48 ida's.

You need an actual Weber stack in your hands to see if the stack fits in the TB and if it does what are the complications...if any.

I'll lend you one. Keep it as long as you want. Send it back eventually.

With Priority Mail it is two to three days away and will answer a million questions in just one try.

The tabs are not welded on the IDA's. They are loose tabs or fingers that apply pressure to a ring that is integral to the stack.


Inglese isn't everything. In some cases, not all, I have better, more specific information that he does. He's more generic because of the nature of what he does. I'm item specific.

That's a big difference. Smiler


...oh, and I don't cost anything either. Just one little drive...let's see, where's 10,000 rpm on the tach? Eeker
Success!

I found an outfit that had 8 aluminum stacks and I ordered them up.

We were pretty much on the same page as far as 48mm and IDF mounting, so (knocking on wood) all should hopefully work out well.

I've got some cool ideas using my air cleaner baseplate, and foam, to seal the underside of the stacks from debris being blown up from underneath the decklid, and I'm going to add side scoops where my side windows used to be.

I'm going to use Panteradoug's rubber screen mounting trick (if he'll show me), and some screens on the side window scoops ought to have my setup seeing clean air and looking as cool as it gets IMO.
I have some o-rings for that which I never used.

They are for making the GT40 type cookie tray.

The o-ring fits into an aluminum, or better yet clear plexiglass sheet.

The o-rings sit around the throat of the velocity stacks.

I would recommend the clear lexan so you can see what's going on underneath.

The problem with this setup is it positively seals you away from access quickly under the sheet.

On the FI that is probably less of an issue than with the IDA Webers. Those you need instant access to the throttle linkage or else you are inviting a problem.

What problem? That is unknown. That is the issue...access instantly to an unknown or unforeseeable issue.
What you describe is what I had in mind, but I'm going to use my lower air cleaner plate, held in place by large O-rings, with foam around the underside of the decklid to form a seal.

This will keep crap from being sucked up from under the car and up above the decklid.

Then I plan to fabricate some side window air scoops (or buy some pre-made ones), add some screens to those too, and along with your rubber screen trick, I should have the look I'm going for, with little to no restriction, and it should stay relatively crap-free while driving down the old dusty trail.
Scoops replacing the windows work but when they are made out of solid materials they will block your view necessary for picking up cars in the blindspots.

I have the "factory" fiberglass "bat ears" but put them on the shelf and this is the scoop I'm using now. It is vacuum molded out of clear lexan.

The screws you see are necessary to hold the gasket to the car at speeds somewhere over about 75 mph.

The scoops catch enough air that they will get ripped out otherwise.

Functionally some have found that it is better to just take out the glass and run without it.

It sure helps a lot for additional access to the engine compartment.



Unfortunately you can't leave the car parked anywhere unattended either. For one thing little pecker heads with screw drivers will come trying to pry the medallions off of the car to put onto their stunt bikes.

The other thing is they will start grabbing at things on the car like the scoops to see if they will come off of the car with a yank.


I'm working on a security system that when it is turned on, if you touch the car and you are grounded, you get a jolt of full power from the battery through anything metallic.

I want to test it on those little wankers that you see at the beach with the frizzy hair and the clogs. I want to see it the battery turns their hair straight? I'd prefer their hair to catch fire but that might be considered extreme by a third party? I'm not sure about that yet?

Unfortunately my version of "the club" doesn't work in the Pantera. There is no place for the 400# gorilla to hide in it but just the thought of one popping out of the trunk with a club and using it on the perpetrator is like Schwepps..."curiously refreshing"? Wink

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  • 2015-07-29_19.45.18
Last edited by panteradoug
Stacks arrived today. They look fantastic.

I'll try to get them installed here shortly.

I plan to utilize the lower air cleaner plate to help seal off the decklid, and also to hold the temp sensor that's mounted into one side.

The correct O-rings ought to let me position my baseplate where I need it.

Some 1' or 1.5" foam, cut to shape ought to help finish the seal between the decklid and air cleaner base. Then I'll have my stacks sticking out, all sexy and all, and then I plan to install the screens like Panteradoug's setup.

I think it may even improve performance a little, but that's not important. These stacks are for looks.


Tomorrow morning I go on my search for O-rings and foam sheets.

The end result is gonna be SICK!
Went with something different.

My manifold is low Pro i think, because I have lots of clearance to the roof.

I made a nice plastic cover that will snap across the fuel rails, cleanly covering everything underneath, and holding the temp sensor as well.

I still have to make the snaps for the cover, and install the beauty covers, but she's done, save for the screens.

Here's some sexy shots of the new look

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  • sexy1
It looks nice.

You can put spacers under the throttle bodies. Many of the specialty shops offer them made out of billet aluminum.


Wasn't it determined (in an earlier post) that YOUR intake manifold is the Hall Weber manifold that was sectioned to fit the taller deck height that you have?

If so, it's the same height manifold as I have. The greater space that you have is just because your TB's are shorter then the Webers are.

These are solid 1" spacers. There are 2" spacers also.

They won't hurt anything, just will lengthen the distance to the intake valve and give you more low end. You don't want that right?

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Last edited by panteradoug
Air cleaners are boxed up for now. The car will run in this configuration for a while at least.

I DO plan to add screens a-la Panteradoug.

Still have to go to Wal-Mart and get my screens, then I'll PM him and ask for the secret rubber mounting method.

I think at least for a little while I'm going to let Snow White breathe a little, and run her open, just like in the pics.
With my basic knowledge of aerodynamics, the stacks are located in a low-pressure zone if I'm not mistaken.

The shape of the rear of the car is such that is almost acts like a diffuser, causing debris to be sucked up into the car from underneath.

I'm wondering if window scoops might help with keeping the area behind the window where the stacks are in more of a high-pressure state, and therefore possibly lowering the chances of stuff getting sucked up and making it's way to the stacks
quote:
Originally posted by mike the snake:
With my basic knowledge of aerodynamics, the stacks are located in a low-pressure zone if I'm not mistaken....


It has been stated here that (i believe) the Boxer design suffered a loss of HP at speed due to the low pressure zone created by a similaer roofline. the Boxer "suger scoop" was an improvement. this is the GTS roof spoiler.

When I contemplate cusomizing my build, I have though of using the orignal roof spoiler and adding a blocking edge on the underside in hopes of creating a high pressure area there

Oh yea, those stacks do look sexy!

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I can see my car running a sugar scoop (possibly with your trip-strip idea) and a ductail spoiler.

Next after the air screens (if I do it) is getting my front decklid, sides, and rear trunk wrapped in satin black, with a large Pantera graphic lettering on the side.

That should finish off the look I'm going for.
Webers typically will loose around 80 hp with air cleaners on them. I don't know about FI TB's? I would presume they are similar?

The sugar scoop is what you want over the stacks. You do not need a ram air effect on a Pantera, just access to enough volume of air which you already have.

The window scoops are also in a dead air area. The air stream is actually along the roof of the car and the "bat ear" shape is because the edge of the scoop needs to reach up into that air stream.

As it turns out, this type of a velocity stack does not like being in a turbulent air flow location. They like drawing in gentle air, like the drain in a sink or a bathtub.

Drawing air flow from beneath the car works into the concept but it is not quite a vacuum cleaner effect in the this car.

There is an airscoop made for a Pantera which draws air from the top of the windshield and ducts it across the roof and directs it down into the window area.

It is a modification of a scoop built for the Poniac Fiero but the sugar scoop from the L's does the same thing.

Putting a 90 degree trailing edge on the roof spoiler is just going to add lift to the rear like full flaps do on an airplane. I don't think that you want to do that?


Look at this scoop. It is a modification of the Fiero thought.

http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...5562/m/4561096316/p1


This is Mad Dogs Pantera. It has the Bat Ear scoops on it. Notice how the corners stick up?

You need to watch this car in action. Then there will be no question why they call Denis "Mad Dog". It is very self explanatory?

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  • Mad_Dog's_Pantera
Last edited by panteradoug
quote:
Originally posted by MarsRed:
JFB

Thanks (I think) for those links. That second one was really depressing. Especially the fireman trying to open the trunk, from the front, with a fire ax. (?!?!?!)

Is PanteraDoug's picture of the blue car AFTER the fire??


Unknown. Probably before. Someone who is active in that region would know more. Probably Bosswrench might know?

On any car that is going to be raced hard like this an onboard fire extinguisher system is as close to a must as you can get to.

The proximity of the fuel tank to the source of the fire is always a concern in a Pantera.


Unfortunately well meaning firemen with axes are always an issue. Courage is what they excel at, not smarts?
I saw one of the Cobra Coupes burn like that. I don't remember what year. 64 or 65. Daytonna or Sebring.

Everyone thought the car was destroyed.

It was back the next day and people thought Shelby had a hundred of them as backups?

It all depends on the nature of the fire. Gas fires are hot and they usually warp the sheet metal like the decklids.

I'm not sure why the front of that Pantera was burning? Maybe just from the heat, the tires caught fire?

I didn't notice what wheels were on it but magnesium definitely burns.



On the room above the stacks, this is what I have.

These are 5" tall stacks. There are 6-1/2" stacks, the source of which I could not find.

Those would have been too close to the clear plexiglass roof/roof extension that you see in this picture. It's there as a water shield so you can't take a hose and squirt it at the open stacks.

The silly aluminum panels on the carbs sit over the screens and do the same thing.



The screens keep large unfortunate animals like bears from getting sucked in.

Towards the rear of the engine, there is only about 1/2" clearance between the screen and the plexiglass.

That's where the top of the 6-1/2" stacks would be and is too close to put a screen on and the rule of thumb with stacks is that you want the same space above the stack as the diameter of the stack.

These stacks are 3-1/4" od, so this height is ABOUT right with those parameters.



The rubber in the screen retaining rings is rated for 400 degrees F. Where they are located that should be fine.



I'm thinking about putting Budwieser decals on the stacks? They do look like beer cans, so why not?

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  • 2015-08-02_16.02.49
Last edited by panteradoug
Answers to your qustions as I understand:
The Ferrari Boxer suffered from a loss of power (and valves) at very high speeds due to their Pantera-style decklid creating a swirl over the back end of the car. In the Ferrari, the carb air intakes were at the back edges of the decklid. At speeds above about 160 mph, the aero-swirl moved past the end of the decklid, leaving the air intakes running in a partial vacuum. The mixture went lean and much damage followed. The 'Boxer slat' modified the swirl such that the intakes continued to get air up to some much higher speed. Ferrari also later went to EFI, which may have been less speed-sensitive; dunno.

Mounted on a Pantera, the slat works nicely as a sunshade. Speculation is that in combination with a wing or ducktail spoiler, the Boxer-slat MAY make them more efficient, but to my knowledge, no one has ever actually tested this theory. Few consistently run their Panteras above 170 for more than seconds- if that.

This is the story of the blue car of Dennis Antennucci, as I remember him telling it. It ran stock cast-magnesium Campagnolo wheels, and due to a maintenance error by his mechanic, a bolt holding a stock rear caliper came loose. This allowed the iron caliper to move & drag on the inside of the magnesium rim. Enough friction heat was generated during a 92-mile Open Road event at speeds up to 170mph, that the right wheel ignited. A cover photo in Autoweek magazine showed the car crossing the finish line at a clocked 170+ while trailing a sheet of flame. The firemen at the event were untrained in dealing with burning mag, so when they sprayed the fire with water, the burning mag reacted to form hydrogen and oxygen, became far worse and the car subsequently burned to the ground with everyone watching from a safe distance. A year or so later, the entire car was completely restored and ran Open Road events again for at least a dozen more years with only small problems. Dennis still has his ol' blue car which looks pretty good for the life its led.
Well, "they" just don't say Dennis is "colorful" for nuthin'? Wink

Cheers


The sugar scoop on the Pantera actually acts as somewhat of a roof extension for the Webers and deflects air downward towards the stacks.

With stacks, it is actually functional.


I find it a bit ironic that there are those Pantera aficionados that flat out resent add ons like the sugar scoop but will fall down on their knees worshiping a Lamborghini that all but adds lightening bolts coming out of the exhausts that makes those cars more applicable to a comic book then to reality?

I find that a contradiction of terms and just amazing?
Last edited by panteradoug
It surprises that so much time has gone by that this generation of list members are unfamiliar with the Mad Dawg history. The heat from the fire and quick cooling by the firemen, made the metal work a real effort for the body guys repairing the damage. The metal was so hard that working it was difficult.

The resurrection of the car was a tribute to the camaraderie of fellow Pantera enthusiasts as replacement parts found their way to Dennis as a donation out of many garages. I don't know the % of parts donated as to what he actually had to pay to replace; but, I assume the number donated was impressive.
quote:
Originally posted by JTpantera:
It surprises that so much time has gone by that this generation of list members are unfamiliar with the Mad Dawg history....


I am one of those that KNOWS NOTHIN and appreaciate when you fellows repeat the stories of old and share your knowledge.

Just then, You informed me of something I didn't consider was the quinching of the metal by fireman.

I had been wondering today if during the repairs if the entire body/frame had been subjected to some sort of heat treatment during the repair to restore the temper cause by the fire annealing, but it sounds like tempering to reduce the quich harding was needed
Went to the hardware store and found the exact same drain screens as Panteradoug, and then at the auto parts store, I found some weatherstripping/rubber/plastic-ish piping that wraps around the top of the stack and ends up looking identical to Panteradoug's setup.

Now I just have to decide if I want to remove the stacks, and do them one at a time, or try putting the screens on with the stacks installed on the car.

I'll probably freeball here for a few drives, and then tackle the whole job when I'm more mentally prepared.

Every job on this car is HUGE compared to working on ANY other car I swear!

In the end it'll be sweet though, and will be exactly what I want.
quote:
Originally posted by mike the snake:
Went to the hardware store and found the exact same drain screens as Panteradoug, and then at the auto parts store, I found some weatherstripping/rubber/plastic-ish piping that wraps around the top of the stack and ends up looking identical to Panteradoug's setup.

Now I just have to decide if I want to remove the stacks, and do them one at a time, or try putting the screens on with the stacks installed on the car.

I'll probably freeball here for a few drives, and then tackle the whole job when I'm more mentally prepared.

Every job on this car is HUGE compared to working on ANY other car I swear!

In the end it'll be sweet though, and will be exactly what I want.



Removing the stacks is one of the simplest things you can do on the car. If you are getting stressed out over that then maybe it's time to move onto something simpler?

Maybe a Prius? It has no velocity stacks at all?


You also want the edging to be rated for a useable temperature for the engine. The stuff I used is rated for 400F.

I could be wrong but I don't think that storm doors and window a/c units need to use anything that sophisticated.


The stainless mesh in the strainers also needs to be sturdy enough to not get sucked into the stacks under full load.

That is also part of the consideration in increasing the surface area of the screens.

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