All, and Nate!

Nate has some questions below regarding rear hub link end bolts,
alternators/brackets, and the windshield washer fitting. I will add my
commments with a *** preceding them, please reply back if you know better
or have any good info!!!

Steve


>Return-Path: <nate.stevens@worldnet.att.net>
>From: "NATE STEVENS" <nate.stevens@worldnet.att.net>
>To: <NoJaVa1@aol.com>,
> <steve.liebenow@divatv.com>
>References: <77.a97fa13.2713bc7e@aol.com>
>Subject: Re: Goose items
>Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000 22:41:06 -0800
>X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
>X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600
>
>Hi Eugene (&Steve!), thanks for the input and sorry so slow getting back to
>you! My question was confusing as I was pondering how to remove bearings
>that support the accessory drive shaft over the engine. HOWEVER, I have
>also been pondering removal of the rear hub bearing so your note was very
>helpful. I checked my Pantera manual and will go ahead as you did, once the
>right tools are in hand. (As an aside, I did finally mange to get the
>accessory shaft bearings off with light heat and a bearing puller. I was
>convinced the aluminum carrier was covered with baked-on grease, but after
>scrubbing turned out many areas were 'accented' with black paint).
>
>That was interesting about your parts book. My 'copy' came with the car and
>is a stack of 8.5 x 11" Zeroxes with no cover. Currently compiling a list
>of 'needed' parts - includes a few mechanical items, LOTS of fasteners, and
>almost all rubber parts!
>
>Wonder if you or Steve might have ideas on the following:
>
>#1 Regarding the support rods that span between the rear wheel wells and
>the cockpit roof area: Do the bolts at the lower (wheel well) end have an
>unusual 'flower' shaped head about 1" diameter? (they didn't match on my
>car - one side had a standard bolt and the other had the 'flower' head).

***Nate: I will be visiting these areas soon, and will be able to advise
better. The fact that you mention that your jackshaft bracket was
previously painted, would simply lead me to believe that someone simply
lost or damaged the original "flower" headed bolt and replaced with a
standard SAE bolt? Some SAE sizes are so close to metric that you can
interchange them with no problems. Biggest clue would be the exact fitment
of a metric or standard wrench to the heads, and then the marking on the
heads themselves. Three strikes is a grade 5, 6 strikes is a grade 8 etc.
Metric bolts will typically have a number on them or two numbers ie
5.8.... Your decision is wether to stay metric or go with what fits....
or what you ahve in the toolbox....


>
>#2 For unknown reasons, #1010 was previously fitted with a Delco alternator
>and bracket, with the mount area on the bell housing being modified
>accordingly. I plan to re-fit original type parts and presume a Motorcraft
>alternator is stock (from a late 60s 302 Mustang?). If so, is the
>alternator bracket a normal Ford part too?!

***Nate: I have a Bosch alternator, which I believe to be stock.
Unfortunately, my bracketry was modified after a nonstock motor was
installed. There appear to be several ways that Mangustas came regarding
alternators. There were smog pump cars, where the pump sits on the right
mount, the alt on the middle mount. There were EARLY cars with only a
center mount and no RH mount. (I think Koji has one of these cars in
Japan.) There were cars that came with three mounts and still had the alt
in the center. On my car, the alt sits on the RH mount and appears stock,
as the wiring is not long enough to reach the center mount, and I appear to
have all the stock ends on the wiring.....
SO, depending on if you have a 68 motor with air ports in the heads, or a
69 motor without, could make a difference.
I would ask the gang here, that if you have access to your alternator
bracket, to look at it for a Ford partnumber stamped in it. IF we can get
an affirmative, I can look this up in the Ford books for a cross ref!!!!
(Looking for something like C8OE-xxxx-A or C7ZE-xxxx-A or even just C9ZE-A)
Check 'em out and get back please!


>
>#3 Any idea what other cars have the same windshield wash nozzle as the
>Goose? Possibly a late 60's Jaguar? The few Geese I have inspected
>recently had a two-nozzle unit that I cannot identify - just know it's not
>a Pantera part!

*** Nate: Good chance this guy is gonna be Fiat, Alfa Romeo, or something
British as the washer bottle was done by Lucas.... who knows!!! You may
check with PI to see if there is one left on the rollover car!
Anyone else recognize this little bugger!????
>
>
>Much obliged for any help! Let me know if I could check anything for you.
>
>For Steve: upon removal of the clutch t/o bushing, believe it was the same
>you described some time back. It is fully cylindrical bronze unit with no
>'steps' and no rollers:
>
>OD measured 1.379" (35mm is 1.378") ***This will be a standard
measurement due to the American crank shaft.
>ID measured 0.589" (15mm is 0.5906) ***This will be metric, due to
German trans.
>Length was 0.915".'
>Appeared to press into the flywheel about 0.420" but did not measure
>exactly. ***YUP! All of this is about right. The length can vary slightly
from car to car..... the rest should be the same.
>
>The inner shoulder showed scuffing/contact with the transaxle input shaft,
>suggesting the bushing fitted was slightly too long. Also, a 0.020" deep
>ring was worn around the rear face of the bushing, indicating additional
>contact with something else. Curious if this jives with what you saw?!
>
***Nate: The inner shoulder scuffing is indeed contact with the input
shaft. NOT a good thing, but thankfully it is bronze and would mush out of
the way!!! First few shifts were probably interesting!!! If you have the
block plate (1/16" thick steel plate) removed from the engine, this could
explain some of it. IF not, and your plate is installed, someone goofed
and should have made it a touch shorter.

The ring groove in the end of it, is most likely from center section of the
clutch disc, or a previous clutch disc. Check your disc for a
corresponding wear pattern.

With all assembled, there should be a gap of .040" between the clutch hub
and the pilot bushing (Yours appears to have been too tight at some
point...) in order to allow for clutch disc wear. As the disc wears and
becomes thinner, the center hub will get closer to the bushing....
Something to keep in mind to check!!! IF YOU SURFACE YOUR FLYWHEEL, you
need to recheck this measurement as this does the same thing as putting in
a slightly longer bushing.... it moves the disc more forward or closer to
the bushing. See how this gets complicated and how the overall length can
be different from car to car!!!!?????

However, it is all a matter of math and accurate measuring of all the
components involved. Use clay when checking clearances you can't see and
all your measurements fall apart, but check them! You can use clay to
check the gap between the disc and the pilot bushing, and you can use it to
determine how deep your tranny input nose sticks into the pilot bushing....

Out, Steve

>Best regards and good luck with your vehicles! Nate Stevens.
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