Mangusta Script placement

Here are a few pics,

...that last one is esp interesting, the "g" and "a" especially thick and the 2 put tightly together...

   I'm in the same situation on my car (holes filled) and have considered scuffing the paint from below until locating the holes, vs. just locating to somewhere that looks right. I've got the original emblems, replacements seem to have different positions for the studs themselves...

the last one is from Dick Ruzzin's car.

ps: I just remember Wellis telling us that the emblems were outsourced in small batches and therefore not all identical.

https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...239#1598208420720239

...pretty fascinating...my brain wants to make sense of it (that somehow, process with the Chevy engine had something to do with it...). And you'd think I would have learned by now... That DeT was setting the stage for obsessive restoration years later (eg, don't worry about hitting the bullseye, just hit the target...)

Hi Gents, had an idea of an easy way to show the script hole locations on 8MA1010.  The paper is US standard w/ a 1/4" grid....with some extrapolation between lines you should be able to get close to 'actual'.  Note that the bottom right corner is not 90 degrees hence the 'edge' line drawn along the bottom.  The holes were made with a pin, then opened further with a sharp pencil.

One worry would be if the various batches of scripts had different post locations.  I would definitely drill holes in a test piece, then transfer those to the body only after a successful test of the scripts!!  Hope this help, let me know if any actual measurements would be useful

Nate, The diagram assumes the pins are always in the same position.

Nate, somehow when I saw your name as author on the update of this thread, I just knew that you had something precise and useful...!

Here is a scan of the original Mangusta emblem from '1076, the repros definitely vary on placement of the pins (even number). But your plot here is terrific...

My plan is to make a template first, probably grab a plastic cutting board out of the kitchen and then precisely get small hole in place (so lessen any worry about a moving drill on top of that beautiful paint).

The other option was to simply scuff the underside until the original sites were found, then do the the microdrill to avoid tearing...

But all in all, geez I wish those holes hadn't been filled (!) But if original emblems are lost, maybe better just to pretend they were never there and drill as needed.

(lastly, keeping Nate's future as a hand model , at least a couple locating dimensions for the 2 emblems...Btw, note that my vertical dimensions of 2"/4" are referenced to the sheet of paper which itself is aligned to the right vertical wall, they disregard the "edge of tail" line...ie. make the rectangular template and set in place, don't measure from the 'edge of tail' line...Note also that the Mangusta line is not exactly parallel with the "edge of tail" (even if just 6mm deviation across its width). Geez, what a good idea to use graph paper...

Any suggestions how to repair one of the pins?  The previous owner rechromed the emblems but didn’t clean up the threads. Even though I was trying to be extra careful using a thread die one of the pins broke off the detomaso script.

...I'd think, consider visiting a jeweler with a brand new replacement thread...the kind of micro-brazing here is a unique talent.

Or, buy a repro, and retire your original to your souvenir cabinet. A couple guys on Ebay advertise Mangusta emblems now. Just confirm the size is right, but as long as you don't have holes in the trunk deck, it may be a good time for a repro.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/18551...471F5EFDZ5GM68MM0EXA

I believe I found a solution for the broke pin, Loctite 430.  It's a Cyanoacrylate glue designed for metal, and so far I'm very impressed.

wow! I tried glue a long time ago on my long "Dino308gt4" emblem, w/o success...but all in all, seems like a great find here!