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these bolted down properly will pick up engine and trans. pantera engine /trans balances approximately at third cylinder centerline about 2-3 inches behind this plate
my main reason to use one is to move just the motor, hopefully loading it into the back of a truck.
what bolts are need? (carb and studs haven't been found!)
I had a balance beam to pick the motor/trans. something I had made 30years ago, excessive overkill.
what bolts are need? (carb and studs haven't been found!)
I had a balance beam to pick the motor/trans. something I had made 30years ago, excessive overkill.
You could EASILY just use a couple of bolts & washers ( Head/exhaust/intake) and a length of chain with links large enough to pass the appropriate bolt through...Markquote:Originally posted by JFB #05177:
my main reason to use one is to move just the motor, hopefully loading it into the back of a truck.
what bolts are need? (carb and studs haven't been found!)
I had a balance beam to pick the motor/trans. something I had made 30years ago, excessive overkill.
I needed to purchase one or the other.
Just thinking chain and bolts into the iron heads does sound stronger, but if I try to rig short, the chains would dig into the valve covers. (and I wouldn't like the more horizonal angle needed in the chain pull. for the balance bar I used to pull the engine/trans, it had a spreader so I did use straight down cables to extending brackets bolted to the exhaust manifold.
I forgot to mention the intake is aluminum, would that make a differance?
Hopefully I can make a trip to AutoZone this PM
Just thinking chain and bolts into the iron heads does sound stronger, but if I try to rig short, the chains would dig into the valve covers. (and I wouldn't like the more horizonal angle needed in the chain pull. for the balance bar I used to pull the engine/trans, it had a spreader so I did use straight down cables to extending brackets bolted to the exhaust manifold.
I forgot to mention the intake is aluminum, would that make a differance?
Hopefully I can make a trip to AutoZone this PM
Carb bolts are 5/16 thread- sometimes coarse, sometimes fine thread depending on what intake manifold you have. Fully tightened, the lift plate with four bolts should hold OK. A fully assembled 351-C weighs 550 lbs without the carb, flywheel & clutch or A/C compressor which can be laid in the passenger compartment without disconnecting anything, and the rear AC condenser laid over on the right rear fender on a blanket- also without disconnecting.
Add 30 lbs for a stock flywheel, 20 lbs for a clutch, 15 lbs for a bellhousing, 12 for a Holley 4bbl and 155 lbs more for a complete ZF, making the assembly as lifted around 780 lbs. It's a really good idea to NOT get any human body parts anywhere near the thing as its coming out or going into a truck bed, if things go wrong....
Some guys pull at least the distributor cap or the whole distributor, as the powertrain assembly often tilts while being extracted and a common occurence is a distributor cracking the rear window. Good luck.
Add 30 lbs for a stock flywheel, 20 lbs for a clutch, 15 lbs for a bellhousing, 12 for a Holley 4bbl and 155 lbs more for a complete ZF, making the assembly as lifted around 780 lbs. It's a really good idea to NOT get any human body parts anywhere near the thing as its coming out or going into a truck bed, if things go wrong....
Some guys pull at least the distributor cap or the whole distributor, as the powertrain assembly often tilts while being extracted and a common occurence is a distributor cracking the rear window. Good luck.
I just picked up an assortment of 4 pack grade 8 bolts when I got the $10 plate from advance auto today.
I've got a Torker intake, the 5/16-18 X 3/4" were used. the 3/4" were a little too long for the front two holes so I used a flat washer and a linotype sheet gasket (mainly to block the spare holes into the intake.
from a material handout, I think the allowable bearing load for a 5/16-18 in aluminum varies from 580# to 800# with pull out about 1300# to 1800#. so with 4 bolts it should be fine.
today I search other sights and there were multiple page discussions about using these plates and there was only one incident mentioned. But the concensus was they work with aliminum manifolds fine.
I'll do a bounce test before I get it up high. I am thinking a differnt manifold will be used following the rebuild. so if it does pull I could Hcoil it.
My need now is just to get the engine out of the shed, put it on a crate and load it in truck. the engine and tran are up against the wall with little room to move at the moment. My plans are to try and pull clutch and flywheel before shipping it off.
I've got a Torker intake, the 5/16-18 X 3/4" were used. the 3/4" were a little too long for the front two holes so I used a flat washer and a linotype sheet gasket (mainly to block the spare holes into the intake.
from a material handout, I think the allowable bearing load for a 5/16-18 in aluminum varies from 580# to 800# with pull out about 1300# to 1800#. so with 4 bolts it should be fine.
today I search other sights and there were multiple page discussions about using these plates and there was only one incident mentioned. But the concensus was they work with aliminum manifolds fine.
I'll do a bounce test before I get it up high. I am thinking a differnt manifold will be used following the rebuild. so if it does pull I could Hcoil it.
My need now is just to get the engine out of the shed, put it on a crate and load it in truck. the engine and tran are up against the wall with little room to move at the moment. My plans are to try and pull clutch and flywheel before shipping it off.
The plate will work fine, I used it the first time I pulled the motor. I much prefer the adjustable balance type that allows you to dip the front of the motor and level it according to your needs, this makes the instillation, extraction much easier, it attaches to the heads.
These things always scare the H&*# out of me but I've pulled and set lots of engines without indecent.
quote:Are those plates that bolt to the carb flange of the intake manifold safe and apropriate?
Perfectly safe! Gearheads have been using them for the last 5 decades without issues. Unless you're lifting over 4,000 lbs. you have nothing to worry about. Just be sure to use good quality hardware and properly secure everything.
Mustangs Plus tested one of these lift plates to the point of failure and found that it took 4,000 lbs of force before the plate began to deform, and almost 4,500 lbs before failure, so that means you have a healthy safety margin with a 500-600 pound Cleveland.
Here's a link to the test:
http://www.mustangsplus.com/ca...s_lift_engine_08.pdf
I'll admit I made this query before I did my due diligant evaluation. if they were truely unsafe, the parts store wouldn't sell them. the plate was not what got my attention, what raised my neck hairs was four 5/16" screws only engaged 1/2" into unknown alulimun alloy. but over the last day I have verified they should hold all the plate is rated.
My engine and transaxle are in an accessible side of the shed. No access to use the engine floor crane to get where I can load in truck. Yesterday I purchased a boom pole for my lawn tractor in plans to pick them out. My next rigging evaluation will be if I have enough weight to keep the tractor's front wheels on the ground. I also want to proof out the cable comealong since I haven't used it in 30 years.
I have also found out I don't have the wrench strenght I once thought I had. So I have found my fathers electrical impacts and test ran them for the first time in 30 years also. Hopefully the impact will let me remove the clutch and flywheel before I start crating the engine and transaxle.
Even though I am working slowly, I feel I am at least progressing now. Thanks for the encoragement and help!
My engine and transaxle are in an accessible side of the shed. No access to use the engine floor crane to get where I can load in truck. Yesterday I purchased a boom pole for my lawn tractor in plans to pick them out. My next rigging evaluation will be if I have enough weight to keep the tractor's front wheels on the ground. I also want to proof out the cable comealong since I haven't used it in 30 years.
I have also found out I don't have the wrench strenght I once thought I had. So I have found my fathers electrical impacts and test ran them for the first time in 30 years also. Hopefully the impact will let me remove the clutch and flywheel before I start crating the engine and transaxle.
Even though I am working slowly, I feel I am at least progressing now. Thanks for the encoragement and help!
quote:Even though I am working slowly, I feel I am at least progressing now. Thanks for the encoragement and help!
Congrats! Progress is progress, no matter how small or slow. A little each day and you'll eventually get there.