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I took Steve's advice and got a set of these hooks.  $20 (delivered on eBay).

They fit great, and by having them in the car, it means I will never again need to be towed.

The chain allows a standard tow hook to grab onto the hook assembly.

You can feel the doublers in the chassis if you poke your finger in there.

The holes also SEEM LIKE they are set back far enough that the cable doesn't appear like it will hang up on the front valence or my spoiler, but I would be watching that very carefully on the first pull, especially if you are pulling "up".

Certainly they will work well if you have to tie down the car.

Rocky



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Last edited by rocky

Agreed with a few here, have towed my car quite a few times different ways.  this is a pre-l btw with the small front valence.

uhaul auto transport - backward - winched just above the hitch for low angle from single a-arm - put long strap on a-arm with forward point for cable attachment.

uhaul tow dolly - backwards (locked steering wheel after wadot approved securing method) - pushed onto dolly with dolly wheels low into driveway apron for low incline up ramps. (towed over 270 miles this way) with a box truck in front of the dolly for wind break.

flatbed towtruck - backwards - the incline of a flatbed is very high on most trucks and the rear is really the best bet for no rubbing against the body with a strap.  I've had flatbed drivers put their rear wheels in driveway apron gutters to lower the incline.

i never found the decklid popping to be an issue, but i also wasn't towing at world speed records either. i like the idea of additional securing the decklid if towing backwards though. a lot of common sense, watch the cable as its pulling, if you see it getting close to touching the body, its a bad tow point or rigging, factory or not.  The factory cars sat higher with taller tires than where many cars probably sit now, so keep that in mind.

Last edited by hustler

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