EDUCATE YOURSELF!!!
Those who find good cars or good deals don't do so by accident. They know exactly what they're looking for. To be a successful buyer you need to be able to make a rational informed decision. Don't get swept-away in a rushed decision. And don't become too attached emotionally with any one car - there will always be another.
The key - EDUCATE YOURSELF about Panteras. Start with the following list of
resources, and thoroughly read everything you can find and learn from the experience of others.
12-Steps to Pantera Ownership
- Join your local chapter of POCA. Get to know other Pantera owners in your area. They will prove to be invaluable resources to answer questions, point out what to look for or avoid by showing you their cars, and they may know of cars available that have not yet been advertised. They will also serve as an excellent sounding board for your price expectations - they'll help you determine if you (or a seller) is "a dreamer," or if a car sounds like a good value. They may even volunteer to go and help you "check-out" a car!
- Get to know other Pantera club members and their cars!
- Learn everything you can about the cars - models, differences, upgrades, corrosion, availability and cost of various parts and upgrades you may need.
- Thoroughly read Mike Dailey's "Pantera Place" website (http://www.panteraplace.com/), which is an excellent starting point to begin your Pantera education. Then, follow the links to any other Pantera websites (both vendors and owners) and use a search engine (i.e. Google) to look for any other owner or vendor sites to continue your education.
- Regularly check any website advertising Panteras for sale (eBay too - but NEVER bid without actually inspecting a car, or having it inspected by a trusted club member or "expert"). And NEVER buy a car you have not personally seen. I was always amazed at how different my definition of "like new" was from those who told me a car was "like new." Caveat emptor!
- See as many cars as you can - make appointments to inspect any and all cars within your price and geographic range (a $100-$200 round-trip plane ticket to inspect a car is cheap compared to the investment you're planning to make). My search ranged from Sacramento to San Diego, and included trips to Las Vegas, NV and Phoenix, AZ. I also planned flights to Seattle, Ohio and Chicago, but they proved unnecessary.
- Follow-up all leads that appear on the Pantera International bulletin board, and let people know what you're looking for. I found a 71 for sale that was not yet advertised merely by telling a friend behind the Parts Counter at my local Ford dealership that I was looking for a Pantera. He knew of someone who had owned one for 19 years and was planning to sell.
- Visit PI Motorsports in Orange, CA. They probably have the single largest collection of Panteras for sale under one roof anywhere in the nation. It's extremely valuable to compare them side-by-side, especially if one or two appear to be what you're looking for, and then go for a drive.
- Determine what you want in terms of model, colors, level of upgrades, etc. Also, know what your budget is, realistically. A "bargain" car on eBay or Beverly Hills Car Club may appear to be a great deal, but it may also need another $20-30K worth of repairs and upgrades. Often, a car with modest upgrades can be had for less than it would cost to perform the same upgrades to an original car. However, buying an original car, or a "fixer," allows you to make modifications and upgrades as time and money permit. Know what you want, AND what you're getting into.
- And remember: There will always be another car. Don't get swept away when looking at a car thinking that a certain car is the "perfect" or "only" car for you. There will always be another one, it just takes time. And perseverance.
- Join Pantera International (sponsor of this website).
- Last, join your local Pantera club and POCA, and get to know other Pantera owners and their cars! It should have been the first thing you did.
Good Luck!
Pantera Place - Buying a Pantera
Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist
- Try to start out with the car ice-cold.
- Jack the rear end up, crawl underneath and inspect for rust.
- Grasp the rear wheels at the 3 and 9 o'clock position and wiggle them in and out. If there is ANY movement and/or clunking, then normally the rear wheel bearings AND the rear axles are shot. Figure about $300-400 a side to fix them.
- Sometimes the bearings and axle are fine, and the problem is the two hub carrier bushings, where the bottom of the hub carrier mates with the lower control arm. I'll have a helper wiggle the wheel while I watch from behind/beneath. If you can see movement where the driveshaft flange/axle goes into the hub carrier, then the problem is obviously there. If that's solid, and you can see the hub carrier moving around relative to the A-arm, then the problem is trivial--a pair of new bushings and a few hours and you're good to go.
- Lower the car onto the ground, and then go to the passenger side and jack the right side, just ahead of the leading edge of the door, on the factory jacking point (a circle punched into the underside of the chassis).
- Grasp the passenger side wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and try to turn it in and out. If there is any movement or clunking, the steering rack is shot. However this is a simple fix, consisting of about $50 in parts for a new bronze bushing, etc. To confirm, have a helper wiggle the wheel and eyeball the accordion-style boot where the tie rod mates with the rack. You will probably see up-and-down movement here, where there should be none.
- Check the forward mounting straps for the front sway bar (where it is mounted to the chassis). Those are known to break.
- Check the lower valance and the radiator support; these are badly designed water traps, and tend to rust out badly.
- Rust spots on the body are at the bottom of the front fenders, just ahead of the doors, the undersides of the doors, and the front of the driver's side quarter panel at the bottom. Also the rocker panels and the bottom of the door post pillars.
- Check for even panel gaps and alignment.
- Start it up, see if it starts cleanly, or blows smoke out the pipes. If it blows smoke initially, that normally means the valve guide seals are shot.
- With the engine running, hop inside and start actuating all the switches to make sure all the lights, accessories, windows etc. work.
- Check for even and smooth clutch engagement.
- Once the car is warmed up, try some acceleration tests in 2nd gear, feeling for smooth acceleration, and watching the mirror for smoke, etc.
- Wiggle the car from side to side looking for clunks, etc. Also look for self-steering under throttle, which can indicate worn-out suspension bushings.
- Turn on the A/C and see if it operates correctly.
- When done driving, let it sit and idle for a long time - 10 minutes or so? Check the temperature gauge and watch the engine bay for any signs of overheating.
