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Greetings!
I just did tsolo's brake lamp switch swap, and gotta say that it went well!  Tight quarters.....but job done.

However, I do have questions about the wad of unused wires that was stuffed behind my brake booster!!!    I searched SO Bills drawings to no avail and I can't recall if I had the full sized drawing anywhere.........brain fade....  so here goes!

I actually found that the Black and White wires belong(ed) to the washer pump motor.    The smaller red and red/black stripe are the brake light switch wires are not seen in the picture as I had already pulled them back into the cabin...

There is a pair of larger RED and a RED/Black Hash markings that were shorted together.  What device were/are these for that would have been up front?

The last two wires is a pair of pink wires.  One slightly larger gauge wire.  These two are crimped together on to a female spade clip and not connected to anything.   I believe they were intended to be connected to the brake like junction block (via SOBills drawing), for the shuttle "fail" light feature.    BUTT, the switch on the junction block is the stock Ford (67-70+ Mustang) part with two "pin" connections on it...and used a special two pin connector, not spades....

I don't ever recall anyone saying that this feature (brake system failure) ever was implemented???   ...no one complaining about how to reset the displaced shuttle shaft due to a front or rear circuit failing which is a very common discussion on just about every Ford based forum site!

Just looking to know what's what!
Thanks!
Steve

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  • IMG_0098: Extra wiring...red wires and pink???
Last edited by mangusta
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Hi, Steve. Larry Stock's shop was one of the first I know of to make a practice of deleting these. We think DeTomaso/Ford used a front wiring loom from some other car- likely front engined- as a cost saving so there's maybe 10 FEET of extra wires that are factory-taped under all Pantera front hood supports. Many can be safely deleted but I can't tell you which are delete-able without a VOM. In fact that's probably why DeTomaso/Ford left them that way. I was told only a couple are 'hot'....

Yes, I've seen some extra stuff out by the turn signals, but these are the wires coming out of the trunk wall by the brake booster.   I have no idea what sort of bits were in the "frunk" !!!    But I'm guessing that since the wiring that I've identified is there, that likely the other 3-4 wires would have been for some reason originally in our cars.....?  Likely removed decades and a few owners ago!

Steve

AHAH!  OK, I saw that page but the "GY" colored wire thru me and I wasn't sure where the "whatever it is" module/solenoid/switch/thingy mounted and how involved it was.......     "starter interlock manual bypass".......   It isn't spoken of very often....perhaps because it was a 74-ish thing?   That would explain the crude jumper that is connected to it.....

The 25Amp fuse is a bit overkill??????  For a starter solenoid activate wire. 

Also what signal energized the switch to cause the contacts to close?  Or more correctly, what signal caused the switch to close the contacts? The GY colored wire from the Ign Switch is from the RUN contacts....   START goes to the Interlock module and then back to the solenoid output?    Something isn't quite adding up...perhaps there is a minor bit in the diagram that needs to be corrected or edited, as I don't see the normal wiring diagram for a solenoid and it's activation circuit......

NOW, after looking at the page a little more closely,  I think I must have a buttload of jumpered out wiring for switches missing completely...most likely since my original seats/seatbelts were removed many moons ago, so I should say I will likely have lots of wires "jumpered" together in order to keep the starter interlock module happy enuf to let me start my car!!!!

Dare I ask if any one has dissected one of these modules to see what makes it click????   I think I still see it up under the dash......just waiting to cause problems?????  ))

THANKS for the gentle course correction!!!
Steve

My “yellow box” is in a crate in the garage. I replaced it with a relay or 2 many years ago. If the seat switch is made the seatbelt switch needed to be made to start the car through the circuitry of the yellow box. The box could be bypassed by pressing the button in the trunk. I think this was for a mechanics remote start. It would make sense on a front engine car. Not so much on ours.

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