Need some more Amps.

larrywMember

Now that my A/C system is now on line (thanks Larry Finch and SOBill), everything electrical in the car is now operational.

I did the headlight, fans and ignition relay installations (thanks George).

I've got LEDs in every light socket that will accept them (thanks John Taphorn).

I've also added a lot of supplemental grounds.

I intend to put in the Quad headlamp system and I'd like to try Joules PIAA bumper mount hole driving lights and brake strobes too.

I tried a little test the other day and turned everything on, one accessory at a time, and found out the obvious. There is no way my alternator can keep up with all this.

My local alternator guy says there's no externally regulated bolt in Ford alternator that can put out the juice I need at lower RPM's

What's the current consensus on alternator upgrades? Generally (theory), and specifically (part numbers and wiring mods).

Does an practical alternator exist that can support everything at an idle?

7/29/0811:16 PM

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v8capriMember

I would start with an internal reg alternator, which there are heaps around.
the problem is if you overspin an alt to make the juice down low it over revs up high.
seriously how often is EVERYTHING on and idling ?? and for how long ? 5 mins-10 mins ? it will be fine, the battery will carry you through.

7/30/086:59 AM

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larrywMember

Well, it's not unreasonable that all the big draw stuff may be on at once. For example, in slow beach traffic on a hot night all the heavy current loads would be trying to pull their share. My gauge shows a strong draw under this condition.

I am of the largest battery that will fit mentality (1000 CCA@32 degrees)

v8capri- Can I ask what brand/model you run? I'd rather source one easily available at your average parts store. Does it fit the existing brackets? Did you change the pulley diameter? Is there a lead for the electric choke? Does your dashboard charge indicator work? Anything to watch out for when retiring the wiring to the old regulator?

And I'm sure there's some obvious question I missed.

Thanks in advance for anyones comments.

7/30/088:53 AM

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jon3613Member

The 12si is a GM alternator is the best solution, when installed properly. It has a low RPM current support capability and remote sensing for the internal regulator to compensate for voltage loss over the long cables which the Pantera has. The front bearing is large for v-belt applications. (modern alternators are designed for serpentine belts with smaller bearings) It has blower design type fan that is superior to the typical alternator fan. The housing size will fit in the same space of the original alternator.
The 12si will need spacers and some modifications to the adjustment strap but nothing too difficult. The 12si has two control connections, one for “sense” it is wired separately to the fuse panel and the other to the “gen” light in the speedometer.
These are the Lester part numbers for the 12si;
7294-3
7294-9
7294-12

I have used the 12si for years without a problem.

7/30/0810:30 AM

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comp2Member

I am running a lot of electrical components on mine. Electric power steering, trans cooler pump, fans, oil cooler fans, etc.

I had a friend in the car audio business. I worked with him. He works with power master and they have special custom built alternators built bassed on need. My #1 concern was adequat amps, number 2 was good bearings.

We added the entire electrical load with a sandard cussion and came up with 200 amps. Power master built the alternator to fit and even dynoed it. I think it did 165 amps at idle and well over 200 amps. They dyno them to test what they did but it also pays off in other ways. When they dynoed it they found they got bad set of brushes. Why my deliver was dellayed they got it right before shipping it out.

Any good car audio place can sit down with you and discuss your current requirements and have a quality alternator built to fit your spec.

7/30/0811:05 AM

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v8capriMember

All the items I have used are locally sourced, which wouldn't really help you way over there !!
I used a Bosch one from a GM car, however ford also used a bosch one, so I put the ford/ bosch front on the gm / bosch alt, that way it fits my brackets and is high current.
I have also used the mitsubishi one that comes on the GM gen 3 engines 140 amps. they are all 3 wire, but no choke !

7/30/082:27 PM

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