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Hi All,
Well the news wasn't good about my motor, seems
the poor oiling of the Cleveland has led to an
early failure of the crank, couple rods, etc.
Since only a Cleveland block will match up to
everything, I need a 393 or 408 Cleveland stroker long block. I have everything else from the old motor, so it will be a bolt on/in operation.
Any suggestions for the Southern Cal area, for
Ford stroker engine builders? Someone that does it regularly since that seems to be where the best prices are coming from.Thanks for any help!
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Thank you Sick Cat and Pantera 1887, your input is much appreciated. This forum is really helpful in these situations.
Of special note to all of you that have stroker cleveland motors: Sick Cat highlights a URL for the 351 cleveland.wet paint.com that has an article about oiling problems in the 351 cleveland , especially if you have a stroker crank and perhaps the wrong lifters ( which I believe was my problem). Jack Roush came up with a fairly simple solution years ago that solved the problem of poor oiling and is addressed in this article. Since our panteras sit a lot, until you check this option out, warm you cleveland up well before putting pressure on the motor ( apparently the oil comes to the crank from the cam which can take a few minutes, again especially if your motor has an after market stroker crank) My engine rattled pretty good a couple of times when I started it after sitting for a month or more, and I have a hydraulic roller cam.
I don't mean to add anxiety to any of you, its just that I have leaned quite a bit about this issue in the past week and I'm lookin at $12-15K in expenses for not understanding it quicker and being more careful. My engine failed sitting in my garage when I rev'ed it up to clean out the excess fuel from the injection work I did on it. The mechanic that pulled the pan, said it was ready to go anyway and I was lucky it happened at home.Some luck!?
Again thank you to sick cat and pantera 1887
for your help.
Last edited by George P
CCG

If you're gonna run an aftermarket crank (stroker) I believe it is imperative to bush the lifter bores & set the clearances between the lifters & bores to a very tight tolerance, 0.0007" to 0.0012". Even if a person is using the OEM crank I don't like to see those clearances any greater than 0.0017", which was Ford's nominal spec for that clearance. This is something to keep in mind when you're hunting for a pre-assembled motor.

There are a lot of good engine builders in this world, but not too many that are 'competent" where the 351C is concerned.

I understand you are concerned about the 351C lubrication system. I have written about the 351C lubrication system in the past, but if it would help we could cover it once again in a new thread. The clevo lube system is not poorly designed or defective in any way, its just that folks don't understand the features designed into it.

-G
quote:
Since our panteras sit a lot, until you check this option out, warm you cleveland up well before putting pressure on the motor ( apparently the oil comes to the crank from the cam which can take a few minutes, again especially if your motor has an after market stroker crank) My engine rattled pretty good a couple of times when I started it after sitting for a month or more, and I have a hydraulic roller cam.


Most all of the wear occurs in the initial cranking/start up period prior to reaching full oil pressure. An accusump is the best solution and I would recommend installing one on all engines that sit for any length of time between uses.

FWIW my 393C was built by Klein Eninges in Chandler AZ.

Julian
Be very careful with the Chinese crank suppliers,
as they are not taking the time to dress or straighten their grinding wheels and the journal sizes are larger at the radius's on the ends of the journals, this creates high loads or contact on your bearing edges and can result in failure of your project,found this out from my crank grinder as 75% of their work is fixing these cranks.

Mark
Supplementing Sick Kitty's comments on off-shore cranks, sure they're cheaper: no one knows what quality of metal is in them and the machining, sometimes finished in the U.S, is marginal- befitting the price. The nose of such cracks are consistently undersized, so much so that some harmonic balancer mfgrs make a special undersized unit to fit onto such cranks. A harmonic balance MUST fit tight in order to work at all.
I can also refer you to one owner of a cheap 351-C stroker that went through 3 months of down-time, three different dyno sessions and two separate crank installations to cure a persistent rear main seal leak on his brand new stroker engine. Turned out the #5 bearing journal was OK but the seal journal was machined slightly undersized and leaked above 3000 rpms.... The pro Cleveland mechanic that assembled his engine (3 times!) will not work on cheap strokers anymore.
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