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Hello All,

I just replaced my rear calipers and brake lines.  Pantera Parts Connection for the calipers and Hall Pantera for the brake lines.  The calipers are leaking at the top where the brake line threads into the caliper. I noticed the OEM brake lines have a perfectly flat end on the side that goes into the caliper and the Hall Pantera lines have slight flair.   From what I see it doesn't look like the brake line would fully seat inside the caliper.

Any ideas?




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Or you could spend $120 and buy a set of Goodridge stainless lines with ALL the correct fittings to stock calipers and tubing runs.  I did.  This kit is a very well made product.  The vendors seem to lack knowledge these days about fittings and connections and whether what they sell even fits or works.  I found the Goodridge line from all the guys in the UK which is where all the good shit comes from.  Well engineered, well made and perfect fit.

I can't see what is going on without pictures but from Hall's website it appears that the caliper end of the kit is using an inverted flare fitting to attach the hose to the caliper.

I will have to look at my setup but I think the original Pantera connection uses a fluid bolt and a brass block. That one uses a pair of copper crush washers.

You may need to swap in a copper crush washer under the inverted flair fitting? That will stop the leak but I'm not sure that should why they supplied an inverted flair there? The "girls" are not good at all with these kinds of details these days.

I believe that when I converted mine, I salvaged the brass block and fluid bolt design, cut out the rubber hose connection, drilled out  and installed a 1/8npt to -3 adapter (steel) (or -4, don't remember which one at this writing), then used the original brass block/fluid bolt. crush washers.

Post some pictures and I can help more.

You can message me on Facebook too if that is more convenient? AKA Doug Waschenko.

Last edited by panteradoug

Here are a couple of pictures of the Hall and OE rear brake lines.  I tried a copper crush washer, and it improved but still leaking.  I think it is as tight as possible without stripping the threads.  I'm going to try a thicker crush washer to see i that helps.  As you can see the Hall has an inverted flair and the OE is perfectly flat.  The Hall version is .003" longer from the nut to the end of the flair.


Images (2)
  • Brake Line Front
  • Rear Brake Line Top View

I was able to fix the leak but nervously cautious for now.  I changed the crush washer from .003" to .006" and tightened it as much as I could without stripping the threads.  The strange thing is that the other side isn't leaking and doesn't have a crush washer on it.  Maybe it's just tolerance stack up with the slightly longer thread length on the Hall brake line.



I could be mistaken but you may be looking at this wrong. When I did this with the Hall lines 10 years ago I reused the fitting that screws into the caliper. It threads off of the rubber hose. I had them apart a year ago when I rebuilt my calipers and nickel plated those fittings at that time. The fitting you show in the picture I used on the other end to go through the fender and couple the hard line. I believe there were nuts that fit the thread on those bulkhead fittings. I can take pictures tomorrow if necessary.



Thanks for the info.  I was originally thinking the fittings would thread off the old lines but i wasn't able to separate them.  In the meantime, one of my original rear brake lines is nowhere to be found so I would be missing a fitting.  I put a .006" crush washer on the passenger side too even though it wasn't leaking. 

Mann, you guys tend to over think some of this stuff. The original line has a 3/8-24 thread and used a crush washer to seal. The new line from Hall is using an adaptor fitting that also has a 3/8-24 thread ( it also has an inverted flair that is irrelevant). The new fitting needs a crush washer just like the old one did. When I sold these same fittings I would add an o-ring to the base as it keeps the crush washer centered on the fitting and aids the sealing process. Bottom line, the fitting will work just fine with a crush washer to seal it...

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