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New engine ran then stopped

74lqqkr74lqqkrMember
This was a complete rebuild even the gas tank was cleaned etc.

1. Poured some gas in the carb, hit the key and she started right up then died. I never filled up the dry tank I just wanted to see if it would fire.

2. Put 5 gals in tank (really sounds funny in a completely empty tank) put in the coolant then pushed her to the driveway to start.

3. Primed it again and she fired right up then died. The filter filled up and gas was the carb.

4. Raised the idle screw a bit on the carb and hit the key and she fired right up. Idle was good running at about 1000k rpm then it was like I turned off the ignition.

5. Cranked again and nothing.

6. I started to freak out because I went to a roller cam and had to change the iron gear in my msd to bronze. I was hoping that the pind did not shear off, to many stories here about that.

7. Pulled off the cap and cranked it and it moves fine.

8. Set the balancer on TDC and checked the rotor and it's rith on #1 (well a bit advanced).

9. Put the cap back on and pulled off a plug wire, put a screw driver in and grounded it and not spark.

10. pulled off the coil wire at the dist. and put the screw driver in it and grounded it and no spark from the coil.

11. Turned the key to on and checked the positive side of the coil (msd blaster) and nothing.

What should I check next? Does the coil only get current when cranking? I don't think so because the key is on when the car is running. All fuses check out ok. Is there something funny about the ignition switch that will not give current to the msd by just turning the switch to on and not trying to start it first? I know the break lights only work if the engine is running, at least on mine it's like that.

The engine sounded great untill it was like someone turned off a switch.

Thanks all
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v8capriv8capriMember
provided the car does not have a MSD style box, but an electronic ignition, check there is 12 volts between the positive side of the coil and earth ( not neg on the coil)
if it is electronic ignition it may have 3 wires red, black and green.
check there is 12 volts between the red ( positive ) and black ( negative) the green should be on the neg of the coil.
it does sound like you do not have power there.
if you do not have power there,check why, you can 'hot wire' it if you need it running to prove the engine is okay, we can explain that later.
check your ign voltage first.
74lqqkr74lqqkrMember
Its a Edelbrock polished AIR GAP. I had to wait about 4 months for it. I just got a lower filter element and the cover fits even better.

Still have not found the problem, had to disconnect one of my fans that comes on with the ignition, running down the battery and too annoying to concentrate...

I had an Edelbrock torker and it was also under the cover but with the Edelbrock heads they recommended the AIR GAP. the torker serged too much in street driving.
74lqqkr74lqqkrMember
It's got to be my MSD 6A. There is 12.5 volts going into the 6A box. Then when the key is on there is nothing to the +side of the coil. Then when cranking there is still nothing going to the +side of the coil. Sound like the 6A BOX to you all? This MSD has worked perfectly for 4 years and as I said it ran for a few seconds then it was like someone turned the key off.
panteradougpanteradougMember
Yes it does sound like the brain is dead and that is what they do when they die.
They have a "time clock going" on them and when it 's time is up, it's up. Doesn't matter how much useage, if any, you have given it.

I hate them. I think that MSD builds the worst, least reliable brain that you can buy.

I put in a Ford Motorsport unit and have never looked back.
74lqqkr74lqqkrMember
Thanks all.

Went to the msd website and they have some tests to perform with small jumper wire (or paper clip) and it most certainly points to the brains of the mater. Oh well it sure sounded nice for a while. At least I'm glad its not the dreaded counter pin in the dist gear. The neighbors were more disappointed than I was, especially when they had to help me push her back into the garage.
74lqqkr74lqqkrMember
V8,

I actually did check the small red wire and I had it connected to a source that is hot when the ignition is in the on position. The volts have always been 5 not 12. I knew that it was only 5 but it worked so I left it for 5 years. Maybe this is the long term effect. This time I'm connecting it to a 12 volt source with the key in the on position, the same source as my fan #1 at the fluidyne, #2 is switch and thermostat controlled, if I think it's getting too hot I' can turn it on. BTW I just got a new 6A brain and am going to install it, a bit more than Summit but I can't wait. I might as well have every thing new.
74lqqkr74lqqkrMember
end of this thread.....

hooked up the new 6A and she fired right up..
Chalk up another MSD gremlin. The only thing i can say is that the car sat for about 4 months and was working fine when I shut her off. The car was in the garage so the temp was not too bad don't know what the problem might have been. On to the next chapter of the rebuild... The engine does sound good but now lets get down to the real nuts and bolts of the rebuild. Thanks v8capri for weighing in....
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