Garth's post reminded me, put anything and everything on wheels. Makes cleaning the garage much easier.
Being able to move things make the workshop easier to clean. Here us an industrial workbench from Whalen. Buy two or more to give you all the workspace you need.
Dago, how is the shop progressing? Post some pictures as you go. I am working on the in floor heating right now.
Richard
Richard
Sorry was out of the country for a while. I have visit the jungle they call Los Angeles.
But I see a lot of great ideas. The sprinklers are a novice to me but I might consider them. Also to put everything on wheels might be handy. Roll doors are OK, but the rails to support the doors are alway's in the wrong place. You can't put the lift under them. They will restrict my working place.
The loft will be there as the electric overhead winch. Floor heating!
I started to think aboud this workshop, because I could not sell my house. I was looking for a smaller house with a much bigger barn/workshop. however nobody was interested in two years. So best thing was to build a bigger workshop in my garden.
But today the phone rang. Somebody want to see the house. The first in two year. Now they are to late.
Does anyone have a single pole lift or scissor style lifts? Happy with them?
Arno
But I see a lot of great ideas. The sprinklers are a novice to me but I might consider them. Also to put everything on wheels might be handy. Roll doors are OK, but the rails to support the doors are alway's in the wrong place. You can't put the lift under them. They will restrict my working place.
The loft will be there as the electric overhead winch. Floor heating!
I started to think aboud this workshop, because I could not sell my house. I was looking for a smaller house with a much bigger barn/workshop. however nobody was interested in two years. So best thing was to build a bigger workshop in my garden.
But today the phone rang. Somebody want to see the house. The first in two year. Now they are to late.
Does anyone have a single pole lift or scissor style lifts? Happy with them?
Arno
Just to throw this out there...garage doors that roll up into a tight roll...saves overhead. But not knowing your layout I would also suggest a high lift mount with a jackshaft motor to raise it.
good luck with your project, mine is almost done.
good luck with your project, mine is almost done.
good info on the garage doors. doors that roll up in a ball are called rolling steel doors the insulated ones have an r-value of maybe 4.5, however sectional doors can get an r-value of nearly 26 lift clearance would get the doors up and out of your way spending 1,000 on a jackshaft motor isn't necessary as a 3" track system with a solid shaft and lift clearance would operate very smoothly.
Our 3-bay shop is 30x60, with 10' from the floor to the bottom of the trusses. The 4/12 pitch trusses are 10' on center, so a 10k floor lift with floor cables fits well.
I believe this is the lift we have: http://www.completehydraulic.c...-post-cj10000bp.html It cost less than $2,000 delivered to our shop, and works great.
The vehicle on the lift rises between two trusses, and even a full-sized van clears the roof easily.
We've got sectional roll-up doors with torsion springs. The door must be at least partially down to allow some vehicles to be lifted on the hoist.
We do not have running water available, yet we have hydronic heat and a sink. The hydronic system is a closed system, heated by a simple LP water heater.
Mounted atop a closet is a dehumidifier, which collects in a 50 gal. drum. This provides enough water to wash your hands with, although it's only cold.
It's cheap to heat, and only cost about $20K to build, not including labor nor the equipment.
I believe this is the lift we have: http://www.completehydraulic.c...-post-cj10000bp.html It cost less than $2,000 delivered to our shop, and works great.
The vehicle on the lift rises between two trusses, and even a full-sized van clears the roof easily.
We've got sectional roll-up doors with torsion springs. The door must be at least partially down to allow some vehicles to be lifted on the hoist.
We do not have running water available, yet we have hydronic heat and a sink. The hydronic system is a closed system, heated by a simple LP water heater.
Mounted atop a closet is a dehumidifier, which collects in a 50 gal. drum. This provides enough water to wash your hands with, although it's only cold.
It's cheap to heat, and only cost about $20K to build, not including labor nor the equipment.
High ceiling really make the lighting better. I have 16 foot with 4 foot windows up high. I have low ceilings in other parts of the shop and I hate it. In floor hydronic heat is simple and cheap. I'll never pour concrete with out it again. I use a standard 40 gallon gas water heater. Put a few pull anchors in the concrete in case you need to attach for a pull. You may be limited to 744 square feet. Build up! I like my insulated sectional doors. Buy them first off craigslist and then make the opening to fit. Go at least 9 foot wide, 10 is better.put a walk through 3' door next to the garage door so you can get in or out without lifting the big one.
Oh yeah. If you go with hydronic heat, make SURE you use a temp probe which reads the slab temp. I sealed one end of a water tube, and inserted it about 5' into the slab. The temp probe fits inside.
If you have a regular wall-mount thermostat, it only reads the air temp, not the slab temp.
If you have a regular wall-mount thermostat, it only reads the air temp, not the slab temp.
In floor Radiant heat in the cold climate is definitely the way to go .. 30-40% less in cost to operate. Only problem is you have to layout the anchor bolts for the Automobile lift while your installing the tubing.
Ron
Ron
quote:Only problem is you have to layout the anchor bolts for the Automobile lift while your installing the tubing.
We used 6"x6" re-mesh, and laid out the hydronic tubes on 12" centers, then took photos from above - so we can pretty accurately locate the tubes even now. (We haven't hit one yet - knock on wood.)
The perimeter of the building got 2" foam under the slab. The center of the slab got no foam, to allow for better heat storage. We also poured the area under the hoists 8" deep to provide strong anchor locations, and made sure to keep the tubing away from the area where the anchors would go.
I laid out the pec tubing by hand, then I realized I was running out....sooo I spaced the tubes 2 feet about apart, instead of one. I figured that the heat would still warm the concrete. To my surprise, I can rub my hand over the floor and feel the cool areas. It still works great, and this shows just how fast the heat escapes the concrete and enters the room air. My advise. Keep the 12inch spacing. Mars red, no way in hell I'm drilling my floors any where! I did put 2 small anchors at the bottom of staircase, without thinking. I woke up in the middle of the night and realized how lucky I was! I love the silent clean floor heat!
Chors
Chors
quote:Mars red, no way in hell I'm drilling my floors any where!
LPB,
In addition to the hoist, we drilled in anchors for a trip-hammer for a blacksmith who once shared our shop. I located the anchor holes, and he welded new tabs on the base of the machine to correspond with my holes. Talk about feeling lucky...
Yeah, hydronic is the best heat for a workshop.
Oh, one last suggestion: We use an inexpensive LP water heater to heat the shop. We isolated it in a closet, and then mounted it 16" off the floor to avoid any chance of it igniting any flammable vapors from the shop floor.
I put the radiant tubing approx 8-12" apart with 2" styro insulation below the entire ground floor. Then staple up to the side of the joist on the 1st and 2nd floors. I used an instantaneous domestic water heater and zoned it like a heating system.
The key to estimating the tubing is simple .. 1' of tubing for every square foot if your doing 12" on center.
The key to estimating the tubing is simple .. 1' of tubing for every square foot if your doing 12" on center.
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Nothing more comfortable than radiant heating
quote:Originally posted by Belgiumbarry:
is she a good mechanic ?
Who cares! she can hand me whatever she wants to and I will work with it.
