Hey George and others.
Whats the deal with nitrous?
Can it be used safely without damaging internals?
Will
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
I have no experience with nitrous, but I can share a bit about the durability of the 351C castings.
The 351C was designed for endurance racing at 515 horsepower and 7200 rpm, naturally aspirated. I have high confidence with the motor within those limits, as long as it is balanced and blueprinted properly. The crankshaft is actually the toughest part of the motor, its good for ~800 BHP and 10,000 rpm naturally aspirated. The block is the weakest part of the motor, it was intentionally made thin to make it light, just enough material was used for 500+ horsepower and ~7400 rpm naturally aspirated; it is prone to cracking the cylinder walls and the bulk heads above the main bearing saddles at higher rpm or even at lower rpm if it isn't prepared properly. The block will normally break before the crankshaft does. However guys seem to keep the block alive in recreational applications using nitrous, super charging or turbo charging up to around 800 BHP IF they keep the maximum rpm down. Dave Dodeck is one such guy. I wouldn't expect it to survive the abuse of road racing/endurance racing at 800 BHP for very long however.
-G
The 351C was designed for endurance racing at 515 horsepower and 7200 rpm, naturally aspirated. I have high confidence with the motor within those limits, as long as it is balanced and blueprinted properly. The crankshaft is actually the toughest part of the motor, its good for ~800 BHP and 10,000 rpm naturally aspirated. The block is the weakest part of the motor, it was intentionally made thin to make it light, just enough material was used for 500+ horsepower and ~7400 rpm naturally aspirated; it is prone to cracking the cylinder walls and the bulk heads above the main bearing saddles at higher rpm or even at lower rpm if it isn't prepared properly. The block will normally break before the crankshaft does. However guys seem to keep the block alive in recreational applications using nitrous, super charging or turbo charging up to around 800 BHP IF they keep the maximum rpm down. Dave Dodeck is one such guy. I wouldn't expect it to survive the abuse of road racing/endurance racing at 800 BHP for very long however.
-G
As long as the additional fuel is added when the nitrous is engaged and you are not installing a ridiculously sized system it is a fairly safe power adder. Issues can occur if the nitrous is engaged at too low of an RPM. I have seen videos and heard stories of nitrous explosions which have caused intake manifolds and hoods to blow off of cars. That being said it is being used reliably on tons of cars out there.
Yes and no.
Yes, because it's safer than a blower and a turbo because they introduce extra heat while nitrous cools. So an engine can take more nitrous power than blower and turbo, or put another way, you can use it on your stock engine without having to lower compression.
No, because all this is only true if you keep nitrous/fuel ratio steady. If for whatever reason your extra fuel pump or a clogged filter or too narrow fuel line reduces the extra fuel at WOT, then you'll have a melt down in seconds. In my street racing days, I used to bolt a fuel pressure gauge on in front of my windshield to monitor. Today modern electronics can cut the nitrous if the fuel pressure falls.
If you have a pretty stock engine and want some fun, nitrous is great. If you have an engine you poured a lot of money in already, maybe it's too risky.
But the sensation when accelerating, and just pushing a button and getting 200HP extra, is fantastic.
Yes, because it's safer than a blower and a turbo because they introduce extra heat while nitrous cools. So an engine can take more nitrous power than blower and turbo, or put another way, you can use it on your stock engine without having to lower compression.
No, because all this is only true if you keep nitrous/fuel ratio steady. If for whatever reason your extra fuel pump or a clogged filter or too narrow fuel line reduces the extra fuel at WOT, then you'll have a melt down in seconds. In my street racing days, I used to bolt a fuel pressure gauge on in front of my windshield to monitor. Today modern electronics can cut the nitrous if the fuel pressure falls.
If you have a pretty stock engine and want some fun, nitrous is great. If you have an engine you poured a lot of money in already, maybe it's too risky.
But the sensation when accelerating, and just pushing a button and getting 200HP extra, is fantastic.
I ran nitrous for years without a problem. It was on a bone stock 289 (9.5:1 CR) in a jeep that I built for street and off road (desert hill climbing) use.
If the fuel fails, you have no more than about 9 seconds before the engine begins to self destruct.
John
If the fuel fails, you have no more than about 9 seconds before the engine begins to self destruct.
John
DUH, I typed out a whole reply and then thought hey check out a site!!! heres the FAQ from NOS(Nitrous Oxide Systems) they were one of the first and still are one of the best.
One other thing. You can buy so much for these things now, automatic bottle valves so you dont even have to turn a knob, purging valves for the nitrous side so you are ensuring the line is
full at the solenoid, and on and on. Just call em Will!
I had a 250HP plate system on my 351C powered Ranchero. Step one load the converter, Step two floor it, Step three hit the button(I didnt like throttle switches), Step four HANG ON!
QUESTION Will Nitrous affect engine reliability?
ANSWER The key is choosing the correct H.P. for a given application. A kit that uses the correct factory calibration does not usually cause increased wear. As the energy released in the cylinder increases so do the loads on the various components that must handle them. If the load increases exceed the ability of the components to handle them, added wear takes place. NOS kits are designed for use on demand and only at wide open throttle. Nitrous can be extremely advantageous in that it is only used when you want it, not all the time. All NOS kits are designed for maximum power with reliability for a given application.
QUESTION Can I simply bolt a nitrous kit onto my stock engine?
ANSWER Yes. NOS manufactures systems for virtually any stock engine application. The key is to choose the correct kit for a given application; i.e., 4 cyl. engines normally allow an extra 40- 60 HP, 6 cyl. engines usually work great between 75-100 extra HP, small block V8’s (302/350/400cid) can typically accept up to 140 extra HP, and big block V8’s (427-454) might accept from 125-200 extra HP. These suggested ranges provide maximum reliability from most stock engines using cast pistons and cast crank with few or no engine modifications.
QUESTION What are some of the general rules for even higher HP gains?
ANSWER Generally, forged aluminum pistons are one of best modifications you can make. Retard ignition timing by 4-8 degrees (1 to 1-1/2 degrees timing retard per 50 HP gain). In many cases a higher flowing fuel pump may be necessary. Higher octane (100+) racing type fuel may be required as well as spark plugs 1 to 2 heat ranges colder than normal with gaps closed to .025"-.030". For gains over 250 HP, other important modifications could be necessary in addition to those mentioned above. These special modifications may include a forged crankshaft, a high quality race type connecting rods, a high output fuel pump dedicated to feeding the additional fuel demands of the nitrous system, and a racing fuel with high specific gravity and an octane rating of 110 or more. For more specific information about your application, please contact the NOS technical dept.
QUESTION How does nitrous work?
ANSWER Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and 1 part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F, nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous “intercooling” effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F.
QUESTION How much performance improvement can I expect with a nitrous system?
ANSWER For many applications an improvement from 1 to 3 full seconds and 10 to 15 MPH in the quarter mile can be expected. Factors such as engine size, tires, jetting, gearing, etc. will affect the final results.
QUESTION How long can I hold the nitrous button down?
ANSWER It is possible to hold the button down until the bottle is empty. However 15 continuous seconds at a time, or less, is recommended.
QUESTION When is the best time to use nitrous?
ANSWER At wide open throttle only (unless a progressive controller is used). Due to the tremendous amount of increased torque, you will generally find best results, traction permitting, at early activation. Nitrous can be safely applied above 2,500 RPM under full throttle conditions.
QUESTION What kind of testing or research is performed on NOS products?
ANSWER NOS maintains a complete research and development center including computerized dynamometer equipment as well as a nitrous/fuel flow testing facility. In addition, NOS is actively involved in many aspects of racing: working closely with many top name racers to develop the most powerful and reliable nitrous systems in the world.
QUESTION How long will the bottle last?
ANSWER This largely depends on the type of nitrous kit and jetting used. For example, a 125 HP Power Shot kit with a standard 10 lb. capacity bottle will usually offer up to 7 to 10 full quarter-mile passes. For power levels of 250 HP, 3 to 5 full quarter-mile passes may be expected. If nitrous is only used in 2nd and 3rd gears, the number of runs will be more.
QUESTION Will I have to re-jet my carburetor on my car when adding nitrous?
ANSWER No! The NOS system is independent of your carburetor and injects its own mixture of fuel and nitrous.
QUESTION Is nitrous oxide flammable?
ANSWER Nitrous Oxide by itself is non-flammable. However, the oxygen present in nitrous oxide causes combustion of fuel to take place more rapidly.
QUESTION Will nitrous oxide cause detonation?
ANSWER Not directly. Detonation is the result of too little fuel present during combustion (lean) or too low of an octane of fuel. Too much ignition advance also causes detonation. In general, most of our kits engineered for stock type engines will work well with premium type fuels and minimal decreases of ignition timing. In racing application where higher compression ratios are used, resulting in higher cylinder pressures, a higher fuel octane must be used as well as more ignition retard.
QUESTION Where can I get my bottle refilled?
ANSWER Simply call 1-800-99-REFILL for the location of the nearest NOS dealer with refilling capabilities.
QUESTION Is there any performance increase in using medical grade nitrous oxide?
ANSWER None! NOS recommends and sells only the automotive grade, called Ny-trous Plus. Ny-trous Plus contains a minimal amount of sulfur dioxide (100 ppm) as a deterrent to substance abuse. The additive does not affect performance.
QUESTION Is it a good idea to use an aftermarket computer chip in conjunction with an NOS System?
ANSWER Only if the chip has been designed specifically for use with nitrous oxide. Most aftermarket chips use more aggressive timing advance curves to create more power. This can lead to possible detonation. You may wish to check with the manufacturer of the chip before using it. The top manufacturers, such as Hypertech do make special chips for use with nitrous.
QUESTION How long does it generally take to install an NOS kit?
ANSWER The majority of NOS kits can be installed using common hand tools in approximately 4 to 6 hours. NOS instruction manuals are by far the best in the industry and include specific installation drawings, wiring diagrams, and bottle mounting procedures as well as performance tips and a thorough trouble shooting guide.
QUESTION Which type of manifold is better suited for a plate injector type of nitrous system, single or dual plane manifold?
ANSWER As long as the manifold doesn’t interfere with the spray pattern of the bars, either will work fine in most cases. The distribution is better with a single plane at high RPM. If your goal is to increase power by more than 150 HP, the single plane manifold is better.
QUESTION Does nitrous oxide raise cylinder pressure and temperatures?
ANSWER Yes. Due to the ability to burn more fuel, this is exactly why nitrous makes so much power.
QUESTION Are there any benefits to chilling the nitrous bottle?
ANSWER No. Chilling the bottle lowers the pressure dramatically and will also lower the flow rate of the nitrous causing a fuel rich condition and reducing power. On cold evenings you might run on the rich side. For optimal running conditions, keep bottle pressure at approximately 900-950 psi. NOS has a nitrous pressure guage that allows you to monitor this. If you live or operate a nitrous system in colder temperatures, it may also be a good idea to purchase a bottle heater kit, part #14164. Generally, ambient temperatures of 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit will allow for best power potential of NOS kits.
QUESTION Are there benefits to using nitrous with turbo or super-charger applications?
ANSWER Absolutely! In turbo applications, turbo lag is completely eliminated with the addition of a nitrous system. In addition, both turbo and superchargers compress the incoming air, thus heating it. With the injection of nitrous, a tremendous intercooling effect reduces intake charge temperatures by 75 degrees or more. Boost is usually increased as well, adding to even more power.
QUESTION How complete is an NOS kit?
ANSWER NOS prides itself on offering the most complete systems on the market today. They include virtually every component that may be needed for a complete installation; parts such as extra long carburetor studs, gaskets, pipe tap, fuel hose, brackets, filters, fittings, hardware, wiring, 10 lb. bottle with Hi-Flo valve, comprehensive instruction manual, and all other major components are standard in every NOS kit.
QUESTION What is the difference between a standard and an NOS Hi-Flo bottle valve?
ANSWER The orifice of the Hi-Flo valve is much larger than the standard valve allowing for a larger flow of nitrous. With a small orifice valve a pressure drop could occur when nitrous flow is high; causing surging or inadequate nitrous flow. The NOS Hi-Flo valve eliminates this problem. NOS Hi-Flo valves are standard in all NOS kits.
QUESTION What affect does nitrous have on an engine with considerable miles on it?
ANSWER This depends largely on the actual condition of the engine components. Any performance modification to an engine that is worn out or poorly tuned will have detrimental effects. However, an engine in good condition, with good ring and head gasket sealing, should be able to use nitrous without any abnormal wear.
QUESTION Will the use of nitrous oxide affect the catalytic converter?
ANSWER No. The increase in oxygen present in the exhaust may actually increase the efficiency of the converter. Since the use of nitrous is normally limited to 10-20 seconds of continuous use, there usually are no appreciable effects. Temperatures are typically well within acceptable standards.
QUESTION How important is it to use nitrous and fuel filters in a kit?
ANSWER Some of the most important components of any nitrous system are nitrous and fuel filters. To keep contaminants from attacking the solenoid or plugging up a jet, NOS nitrous filters feature a special stainless steel mesh element from the aerospace industry.
QUESTION Will the percentage of performance increase be the same in a highly modified engine compared to a stock engine when using the same NOS kit and jetting?
ANSWER Not really. In most cases the percentage of increase is greater from a stock engine because it is not as efficient as the modified engine in a normal non-nitrous mode. However, since the effects of nitrous oxide magnify the output of any engine, the total power output will be much higher in the modified engine.
QUESTION Can high compression engines utilize nitrous oxide?
ANSWER Absolutely. High or low compression ratios can work quite suitably with nitrous oxide provided the proper balance of nitrous and fuel enrichment is maintained. NOS kits are used in applications from relatively low compression stock type motors to Pro-Modifieds, which often exceed 15 to 1. Generally, the higher the compression ratio, the more ignition retard, as well as higher octane fuel, is required. For more specific information talk to one of our technicians.
QUESTION Can service station fuel be used for street/strip nitrous oxide applications?
ANSWER Yes. Use of a premium type leaded or unleaded fuel of 92, or greater, octane is recommended for most applications. Many NOS systems are designed for use with service station pump gas. However, when higher compression or higher horsepower levels are used, a racing fuel of 100 octane, or more, must be used.
QUESTION What type of cam is best suited for use with nitrous oxide?
ANSWER Generally, cams that have less exhaust overlap and more exhaust duration. However, it is best to choose a cam tailored to normal use (when nitrous is not activated) since 99% of most vehicle operations is not at full throttle. There are special cam grinds available for nitrous competition which have more aggressive exhaust profile ramping, etc. Since cam selection depends largely on vehicle weight, gearing, etc., it is best to stick to cam manufacturers’ recommendations for your particular goal.
QUESTION What type of nitrous system is better; a plate injection system or a direct port injection system?
ANSWER The advantages of a plate system are ease of installation and removal, ability to transfer easily to another vehicle, ability to change jetting combinations quickly, and in most cases, provide you with all the extra HP you will ever need (75 to 350 more HP). In some cases, such as in-line type engines with long runners, a direct port type system is advisable for maximizing distribution. Also, where more than 350 HP is needed, our direct port Fogger systems will provide the ultimate in distribution and power (up to 500+ HP). Direct port injection is also desirable when the system is hidden under the manifold.
QUESTION Should I modify my fuel system to use nitrous oxide?
ANSWER Most stock fuel pumps will work adequately for smaller nitrous applications. It is important to check to see if your pump can flow enough fuel to your existing fuel system (whether carburetor or fuel injected), as well as being able to supply the additional fuel required by the nitrous kit under full throttle conditions. It may be a good idea to dedicate a separate fuel pump to the nitrous kit.
QUESTION Which is the best position to mount a nitrous bottle?
ANSWER NOS bottles come with siphon tubes and, in order to maintain proper nitrous pickup, it is important to mount the bottle correctly. We recommend mounting the bottle at a 15 degree angle with the valve end higher than the bottom of the bottle. The valve end of the bottle should point to the front of the vehicle and the valve knob and label should face straight up.
QUESTION What are the advantages of using nitrous compared to other performance options?
ANSWER The cost of many other performance options can put you in the poorhouse. Dollar for dollar, you can’t buy more performance with less money than nitrous. With a nitrous system, performance and reliability can be had for a much more reasonable price while still retaining the advantage of a stock engine during normal driving. Nitrous offers tremendous gains in torque without having to rev the engine to excessive rpm’s. These factors help your engine last longer than many other methods of boosting horsepower.
QUESTION Does NOS manufacture kits for motorcycles, water craft, or snowmobiles?
ANSWER Absolutely. Call or write NOS to obtain our special catalog devoted specifically to these applications.
QUESTION What kind of pressures are components subject to in a typical nitrous kit?
ANSWER Pressures often exceed 1,000 psi. This is why NOS uses only high pressure tested aircraft quality components like stainless steel braided Teflon lines throughout its system.
QUESTION What is the function of the blow-off safety valve on the bottle?
ANSWER It is very important not to overfill a bottle; i.e., a 10 lb. capacity bottle should not be filled with more than 10 lbs. of nitrous oxide by weight. Over-filling and/or too much heat can cause excessive bottle pressures forcing the safety seal to blow and releasing all the contents out of the bottle.
QUESTION Will I have to change my ignition system?
ANSWER Most late model ignition systems are well suited for nitrous applications. In some higher HP cases, it may be advisable to look into a high quality high output ignition system with a built in spark retard.
QUESTION How do I know how much nitrous is left in the bottle?
ANSWER The most reliable method is to weigh the bottle to determine how many pounds remain. When a bottle is near empty (about 20% or less nitrous remaining) a surging effect is normally felt.
One other thing. You can buy so much for these things now, automatic bottle valves so you dont even have to turn a knob, purging valves for the nitrous side so you are ensuring the line is
full at the solenoid, and on and on. Just call em Will!
I had a 250HP plate system on my 351C powered Ranchero. Step one load the converter, Step two floor it, Step three hit the button(I didnt like throttle switches), Step four HANG ON!
QUESTION Will Nitrous affect engine reliability?
ANSWER The key is choosing the correct H.P. for a given application. A kit that uses the correct factory calibration does not usually cause increased wear. As the energy released in the cylinder increases so do the loads on the various components that must handle them. If the load increases exceed the ability of the components to handle them, added wear takes place. NOS kits are designed for use on demand and only at wide open throttle. Nitrous can be extremely advantageous in that it is only used when you want it, not all the time. All NOS kits are designed for maximum power with reliability for a given application.
QUESTION Can I simply bolt a nitrous kit onto my stock engine?
ANSWER Yes. NOS manufactures systems for virtually any stock engine application. The key is to choose the correct kit for a given application; i.e., 4 cyl. engines normally allow an extra 40- 60 HP, 6 cyl. engines usually work great between 75-100 extra HP, small block V8’s (302/350/400cid) can typically accept up to 140 extra HP, and big block V8’s (427-454) might accept from 125-200 extra HP. These suggested ranges provide maximum reliability from most stock engines using cast pistons and cast crank with few or no engine modifications.
QUESTION What are some of the general rules for even higher HP gains?
ANSWER Generally, forged aluminum pistons are one of best modifications you can make. Retard ignition timing by 4-8 degrees (1 to 1-1/2 degrees timing retard per 50 HP gain). In many cases a higher flowing fuel pump may be necessary. Higher octane (100+) racing type fuel may be required as well as spark plugs 1 to 2 heat ranges colder than normal with gaps closed to .025"-.030". For gains over 250 HP, other important modifications could be necessary in addition to those mentioned above. These special modifications may include a forged crankshaft, a high quality race type connecting rods, a high output fuel pump dedicated to feeding the additional fuel demands of the nitrous system, and a racing fuel with high specific gravity and an octane rating of 110 or more. For more specific information about your application, please contact the NOS technical dept.
QUESTION How does nitrous work?
ANSWER Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and 1 part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F, nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous “intercooling” effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F.
QUESTION How much performance improvement can I expect with a nitrous system?
ANSWER For many applications an improvement from 1 to 3 full seconds and 10 to 15 MPH in the quarter mile can be expected. Factors such as engine size, tires, jetting, gearing, etc. will affect the final results.
QUESTION How long can I hold the nitrous button down?
ANSWER It is possible to hold the button down until the bottle is empty. However 15 continuous seconds at a time, or less, is recommended.
QUESTION When is the best time to use nitrous?
ANSWER At wide open throttle only (unless a progressive controller is used). Due to the tremendous amount of increased torque, you will generally find best results, traction permitting, at early activation. Nitrous can be safely applied above 2,500 RPM under full throttle conditions.
QUESTION What kind of testing or research is performed on NOS products?
ANSWER NOS maintains a complete research and development center including computerized dynamometer equipment as well as a nitrous/fuel flow testing facility. In addition, NOS is actively involved in many aspects of racing: working closely with many top name racers to develop the most powerful and reliable nitrous systems in the world.
QUESTION How long will the bottle last?
ANSWER This largely depends on the type of nitrous kit and jetting used. For example, a 125 HP Power Shot kit with a standard 10 lb. capacity bottle will usually offer up to 7 to 10 full quarter-mile passes. For power levels of 250 HP, 3 to 5 full quarter-mile passes may be expected. If nitrous is only used in 2nd and 3rd gears, the number of runs will be more.
QUESTION Will I have to re-jet my carburetor on my car when adding nitrous?
ANSWER No! The NOS system is independent of your carburetor and injects its own mixture of fuel and nitrous.
QUESTION Is nitrous oxide flammable?
ANSWER Nitrous Oxide by itself is non-flammable. However, the oxygen present in nitrous oxide causes combustion of fuel to take place more rapidly.
QUESTION Will nitrous oxide cause detonation?
ANSWER Not directly. Detonation is the result of too little fuel present during combustion (lean) or too low of an octane of fuel. Too much ignition advance also causes detonation. In general, most of our kits engineered for stock type engines will work well with premium type fuels and minimal decreases of ignition timing. In racing application where higher compression ratios are used, resulting in higher cylinder pressures, a higher fuel octane must be used as well as more ignition retard.
QUESTION Where can I get my bottle refilled?
ANSWER Simply call 1-800-99-REFILL for the location of the nearest NOS dealer with refilling capabilities.
QUESTION Is there any performance increase in using medical grade nitrous oxide?
ANSWER None! NOS recommends and sells only the automotive grade, called Ny-trous Plus. Ny-trous Plus contains a minimal amount of sulfur dioxide (100 ppm) as a deterrent to substance abuse. The additive does not affect performance.
QUESTION Is it a good idea to use an aftermarket computer chip in conjunction with an NOS System?
ANSWER Only if the chip has been designed specifically for use with nitrous oxide. Most aftermarket chips use more aggressive timing advance curves to create more power. This can lead to possible detonation. You may wish to check with the manufacturer of the chip before using it. The top manufacturers, such as Hypertech do make special chips for use with nitrous.
QUESTION How long does it generally take to install an NOS kit?
ANSWER The majority of NOS kits can be installed using common hand tools in approximately 4 to 6 hours. NOS instruction manuals are by far the best in the industry and include specific installation drawings, wiring diagrams, and bottle mounting procedures as well as performance tips and a thorough trouble shooting guide.
QUESTION Which type of manifold is better suited for a plate injector type of nitrous system, single or dual plane manifold?
ANSWER As long as the manifold doesn’t interfere with the spray pattern of the bars, either will work fine in most cases. The distribution is better with a single plane at high RPM. If your goal is to increase power by more than 150 HP, the single plane manifold is better.
QUESTION Does nitrous oxide raise cylinder pressure and temperatures?
ANSWER Yes. Due to the ability to burn more fuel, this is exactly why nitrous makes so much power.
QUESTION Are there any benefits to chilling the nitrous bottle?
ANSWER No. Chilling the bottle lowers the pressure dramatically and will also lower the flow rate of the nitrous causing a fuel rich condition and reducing power. On cold evenings you might run on the rich side. For optimal running conditions, keep bottle pressure at approximately 900-950 psi. NOS has a nitrous pressure guage that allows you to monitor this. If you live or operate a nitrous system in colder temperatures, it may also be a good idea to purchase a bottle heater kit, part #14164. Generally, ambient temperatures of 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit will allow for best power potential of NOS kits.
QUESTION Are there benefits to using nitrous with turbo or super-charger applications?
ANSWER Absolutely! In turbo applications, turbo lag is completely eliminated with the addition of a nitrous system. In addition, both turbo and superchargers compress the incoming air, thus heating it. With the injection of nitrous, a tremendous intercooling effect reduces intake charge temperatures by 75 degrees or more. Boost is usually increased as well, adding to even more power.
QUESTION How complete is an NOS kit?
ANSWER NOS prides itself on offering the most complete systems on the market today. They include virtually every component that may be needed for a complete installation; parts such as extra long carburetor studs, gaskets, pipe tap, fuel hose, brackets, filters, fittings, hardware, wiring, 10 lb. bottle with Hi-Flo valve, comprehensive instruction manual, and all other major components are standard in every NOS kit.
QUESTION What is the difference between a standard and an NOS Hi-Flo bottle valve?
ANSWER The orifice of the Hi-Flo valve is much larger than the standard valve allowing for a larger flow of nitrous. With a small orifice valve a pressure drop could occur when nitrous flow is high; causing surging or inadequate nitrous flow. The NOS Hi-Flo valve eliminates this problem. NOS Hi-Flo valves are standard in all NOS kits.
QUESTION What affect does nitrous have on an engine with considerable miles on it?
ANSWER This depends largely on the actual condition of the engine components. Any performance modification to an engine that is worn out or poorly tuned will have detrimental effects. However, an engine in good condition, with good ring and head gasket sealing, should be able to use nitrous without any abnormal wear.
QUESTION Will the use of nitrous oxide affect the catalytic converter?
ANSWER No. The increase in oxygen present in the exhaust may actually increase the efficiency of the converter. Since the use of nitrous is normally limited to 10-20 seconds of continuous use, there usually are no appreciable effects. Temperatures are typically well within acceptable standards.
QUESTION How important is it to use nitrous and fuel filters in a kit?
ANSWER Some of the most important components of any nitrous system are nitrous and fuel filters. To keep contaminants from attacking the solenoid or plugging up a jet, NOS nitrous filters feature a special stainless steel mesh element from the aerospace industry.
QUESTION Will the percentage of performance increase be the same in a highly modified engine compared to a stock engine when using the same NOS kit and jetting?
ANSWER Not really. In most cases the percentage of increase is greater from a stock engine because it is not as efficient as the modified engine in a normal non-nitrous mode. However, since the effects of nitrous oxide magnify the output of any engine, the total power output will be much higher in the modified engine.
QUESTION Can high compression engines utilize nitrous oxide?
ANSWER Absolutely. High or low compression ratios can work quite suitably with nitrous oxide provided the proper balance of nitrous and fuel enrichment is maintained. NOS kits are used in applications from relatively low compression stock type motors to Pro-Modifieds, which often exceed 15 to 1. Generally, the higher the compression ratio, the more ignition retard, as well as higher octane fuel, is required. For more specific information talk to one of our technicians.
QUESTION Can service station fuel be used for street/strip nitrous oxide applications?
ANSWER Yes. Use of a premium type leaded or unleaded fuel of 92, or greater, octane is recommended for most applications. Many NOS systems are designed for use with service station pump gas. However, when higher compression or higher horsepower levels are used, a racing fuel of 100 octane, or more, must be used.
QUESTION What type of cam is best suited for use with nitrous oxide?
ANSWER Generally, cams that have less exhaust overlap and more exhaust duration. However, it is best to choose a cam tailored to normal use (when nitrous is not activated) since 99% of most vehicle operations is not at full throttle. There are special cam grinds available for nitrous competition which have more aggressive exhaust profile ramping, etc. Since cam selection depends largely on vehicle weight, gearing, etc., it is best to stick to cam manufacturers’ recommendations for your particular goal.
QUESTION What type of nitrous system is better; a plate injection system or a direct port injection system?
ANSWER The advantages of a plate system are ease of installation and removal, ability to transfer easily to another vehicle, ability to change jetting combinations quickly, and in most cases, provide you with all the extra HP you will ever need (75 to 350 more HP). In some cases, such as in-line type engines with long runners, a direct port type system is advisable for maximizing distribution. Also, where more than 350 HP is needed, our direct port Fogger systems will provide the ultimate in distribution and power (up to 500+ HP). Direct port injection is also desirable when the system is hidden under the manifold.
QUESTION Should I modify my fuel system to use nitrous oxide?
ANSWER Most stock fuel pumps will work adequately for smaller nitrous applications. It is important to check to see if your pump can flow enough fuel to your existing fuel system (whether carburetor or fuel injected), as well as being able to supply the additional fuel required by the nitrous kit under full throttle conditions. It may be a good idea to dedicate a separate fuel pump to the nitrous kit.
QUESTION Which is the best position to mount a nitrous bottle?
ANSWER NOS bottles come with siphon tubes and, in order to maintain proper nitrous pickup, it is important to mount the bottle correctly. We recommend mounting the bottle at a 15 degree angle with the valve end higher than the bottom of the bottle. The valve end of the bottle should point to the front of the vehicle and the valve knob and label should face straight up.
QUESTION What are the advantages of using nitrous compared to other performance options?
ANSWER The cost of many other performance options can put you in the poorhouse. Dollar for dollar, you can’t buy more performance with less money than nitrous. With a nitrous system, performance and reliability can be had for a much more reasonable price while still retaining the advantage of a stock engine during normal driving. Nitrous offers tremendous gains in torque without having to rev the engine to excessive rpm’s. These factors help your engine last longer than many other methods of boosting horsepower.
QUESTION Does NOS manufacture kits for motorcycles, water craft, or snowmobiles?
ANSWER Absolutely. Call or write NOS to obtain our special catalog devoted specifically to these applications.
QUESTION What kind of pressures are components subject to in a typical nitrous kit?
ANSWER Pressures often exceed 1,000 psi. This is why NOS uses only high pressure tested aircraft quality components like stainless steel braided Teflon lines throughout its system.
QUESTION What is the function of the blow-off safety valve on the bottle?
ANSWER It is very important not to overfill a bottle; i.e., a 10 lb. capacity bottle should not be filled with more than 10 lbs. of nitrous oxide by weight. Over-filling and/or too much heat can cause excessive bottle pressures forcing the safety seal to blow and releasing all the contents out of the bottle.
QUESTION Will I have to change my ignition system?
ANSWER Most late model ignition systems are well suited for nitrous applications. In some higher HP cases, it may be advisable to look into a high quality high output ignition system with a built in spark retard.
QUESTION How do I know how much nitrous is left in the bottle?
ANSWER The most reliable method is to weigh the bottle to determine how many pounds remain. When a bottle is near empty (about 20% or less nitrous remaining) a surging effect is normally felt.
Here's what happens when too much nitrous is used:
http://www.bacomatic.org/galle...ith_nitrous.JPG.html
That's a TRW L2379F forged flat top piston as used in a Pantera 351C.
The engine had closed chamber iron 4V heads, a Holley Strip Dominator
intake, a big Ultradyne solid flat tappet cam and was in the 490 HP
region without the nitrous. The nitrous unit was set up to add 250 HP.
When the engine was disassembled, the skirts fell off 6 of the 8 pistons.
While the engine was assembled, they were contained by the cylinder bore.
Oddly enough, the engine didn't make much noise. If you flip the pistons
upside down, there's a sharp edge stress riser where they cracked. FWIW,
L2379F pistons are available but are a different design from the originals.
If you get serious about nitrous, google up Mike Burch (a.k.a. n2omike).
He runs a 302-powered nitrous equipped '66 Mustang with home ported 289
heads. Nothing at all fancy but a load of nitrous and runs 10.63 sec @
129.3 mph in 1/4 mile. Some nitrous tips from Mike are below.
Dan Jones
**************************************************************************
Before you start, make sure to have a bottle heater and pressure gauge,
along with a fuel pressure gauge and regulator for the nitrous enrichment.
A good ignition system is also mandatory... one that doesn't keep advancing
the timing to the moon as the engine revs. It should STOP at around 36
degrees total. (with the nitrous off) Check it!!!!!! Wild advance KILLS
nitroused engines... Factory distributors are really bad about this.
Mostly geared to a carb system, but applies to all.... Here Goes!!!
Now that we've got the juice, how do we have fun with it?
Well first off, you don't want to get anxious and hurt your engine... Once the
system is properly installed, check to be sure its fuel enrichment is working
properly. Turn the nitrous bottle off, arm the system, and with the revs around
3000 rpm, tap the button. The engine should fall on it's face. It should be
about like hitting a kill button.
Now that we know it works (the engine is getting enrichment fuel). Let's see
what other items are necessary...
-COLDER spark plugs! Do NOT use Split Fires! For the street, use the coldest
non racing plug you can find... especially if you might have to use the
system with pump gas.
-A bottle heater and pressure gauge! You MUST know what your bottle pressure
is to get consistent results! The gauge tells you the pressure, the heater
allows you to control it. Keep it around 900 psi for best performance.
-Fuel... Use the BEST you can find! Detonation on nitrous can lead to some VERY
un-pretty things! Straight pump gas should not be used on systems over 125hp
on a 302. These engines with their 10 7/16" head bolts are prime game for
blown head gaskets if everything isn't right. A little detonation goes a
loong way on these motors...
Make sure you have a good ignition system with good wires.
**** Now that you are set up, how is it tuned???????? ****
First is timing. The timing NEEDS to be retarded about 3 degrees for every
50hp of nitrous boost. If you don't, it's bye-bye head gaskets, or worse! You
need to go with the upper end of this scale when pump gas is used (even if you
add octane booster). Just DO IT!!!!! I use MSD's Multi-Step Retard to do this
automatically anytime the nitrous is engaged. If you are in the market for an
ignition system, The MSD Digital 6 Plus costs $279, has a timing retard, a two
step rev limiter, plus is adjusted by little dials. (instead of chips)
******** FUEL SYSTEM ********
To start, make SURE your fuel system is able to maintain full fuel pressure at
full throttle high rpm with the nitrous engaged! It's better to be safe than
sorry here. I've seen cars break into the 10's with a single Mallory 140 or
Holley Blue pump, but wouldn't really recommend it. I use two Mallory 140's on
my car. One for the engine, the other for the nitrous.
******** FUEL PRESSURE ********
If the fuel pressure is too high, the car will exhale a bunch of black smoke
out the exhaust, and will not run anywhere near its potential. It will feel
very lazy (well, for nitrous). We want to lean it out, just not toooo far.
My buddy's 2V 351C Mach I went from 9.00 to 8.50 in the 1/8, just from lowering
the fuel pressure!
Start with the smallest hp jets, with the fuel pressure turned up extra high.
This will ensure an extra margin of safety. With the tranny in neutral (park),
bring the revs up to 3000 and tap the button. The revs should jump up a bit.
Probably not super crisp or fast... just kind of a 'VROOOOM'. Do this with the
bottle pressure at its operating range. (850-950 psi)
If it hits EXTRA hard, like BAM! You are probably a bit lean, and need to
increase the fuel pressure.
We can now start to decrease the fuel pressure.... Do this with the car in
neutral. Starting with the pressure high, we are going to be tapping the
button at 3000 rpm as we gradually decrease the fuel pressure.
As the fuel pressure is lowered, the engine will start to respond with
increasing aggressiveness. The VROOOOOM will start to turn into a BANG! When it
BEGINS to get pretty crisp, it's time for a road test!
At full throttle around 3500 rpm, hit the button and hold it for 3-4 seconds.
The car should respond in a positive manner. :-) As you let off the button,
kill the engine, coast to a stop, and check the plugs. They should look clean,
but have NO specks on the porcelain. If they do, it's aluminum from the
pistons, and the fuel pressure needs to be increased. Chances are, at this
point it will still be a little rich, and you will find no specks.
Decrease the fuel pressure a little at a time while making the above test. As
soon as you begin to see ANY specks on the plugs, raise the fuel pressure a
half pound or so, and you should be close to optimum for that hp level. If you
want to try other jets, you need to go through this same testing procedure
again. Start rich, and work your way down.
You will be **AMAZED** at how much better a nitrous system works once the fuel
pressure has been optimized!
**** Other things that help optimize a nitrous equipped car ****
- A good exhaust. BIGGER is BETTER! 3" pipe and mandrel bends rule in nitrous
applications!
- Proper camshaft. A lobe separation around 110 deg is a good compromise on a
carbed street engine. Some extra exhaust duration is also a plus. 8-12 extra
degrees is good. To maximize nitrous performance, go to 112. 114 on an EFI car.
- Compression. Low compression makes tuning a lot more forgiving. Make the
same mistake with both a high and low compression engine, and your chances
of living through it are MUCH better with the lower compression.
If an engine is a little low on compression anyway, (5.0 with a cam for
example) nitrous can bring in a SERIOUS wake-up call!
The weak link with 289/302's is the fact that they only have 10 measly 7/16"
head bolts.
351W's have 10 beefy 1/2" bolts, so they hold very tightly. SBC's have
seventeen 7/16" bolts.
If you plan on very much nitrous at all, you'll need to be sure the engine
has top quality gaskets and ARP bolts or studs. It will also need to have
good fuel and the timing will have to be kept in check, or you'll be changing
head gaskets.
To be safe, I wouldn't be using more than 100hp without all the above. Any
above that, and you'd better have race gas in the tank as well.
Many people get away with more, but their systems are running extra rich and
aren't tuned to make max power.
The safest bet is to use two pumps. A high performance mechanical can be used
to feed the engine, then an electric one can be used for the nitrous
enrichment. I like the Mallory 140, but it's fairly expensive now. A holley
blue should also work.
The billet distributer is an EXCELLENT investment. It will keep that wild
advance under control. It comes with really heavy springs installed from the
factory, so those will have to be changed to the lighter one for about any
application.
I like the new Edelbrock kits. They are very good quality. 100hp is a good
limit to stick with. That 100hp will feel really strong. You won't feel that
much difference stepping it up to 150 from there. Don't forget to pull 3
degrees out for every 50hp. You'll want to start around 36 degrees total (with
the engine revved up) then retard it to 30 with a 100hp shot.
Nitrous follows the rule of diminishing returns... You get a LOT more out of
that first 100hp than the next 100. Don't get greedy... unless you enjoy
changing head gaskets.
When using an electric fuel pump for the nitrous enrichment, it's a good idea
to wire it up to the 'arming' switch. This way, anytime the system is armed,
the fuel pump gets turned on automatically. (forgetting to turn the pump on is
a bad thing.
You can take the distributer apart and make a 'stop' that will keep it from
advancing past a certain point, but a MSD distributer @ around $160 is a really
good buy. A good fuel system is a good investment as well. Messing with the
stock unit involves a lot of trial and error...
I would recommend using your nitrous money to buy these items, get the engine
tuned in and running well... then invest in a nitrous system. Haste makes
waste. Do it right the first time, or you'll just end up having to do it again.
You might get by with a 50-75hp shot as it sits (except for at least a high
performance fuel pump teed off to the nitrous solonoid) but my advice is to
wait and do it right. You NEED to be able to control the fuel pressure and
timing. If you do go forward anyway, be sure to retard the timing by turning
the distributer before any nitrous blasts.
It weighs in at 3300lbs w/driver, has owner ported 289 heads, factory cast
crank, factory 289 rods, TRW pistons... and runs on 93 octane pump gas. The
trans is a stone stock toploader, and the car still rides on it's stock
suspension. The front has had it's sway bar removed, but still has the stock V8
springs. The rear consists of leaf springs and slapper bars.
You could point the car anywhere you wanted, and drive it there no problem. In
this state of tune, it's been driven 100 miles each way in 90+ degree heat to
cruise ins.
The secret is building the car for nitrous use. Nitrous doesn't need much
compression ratio, so the car can be built to run on 93 octane. It runs great
on the street, but come race time... replace the pump fuel with race gas, turn
the bottle on... and it turns into an animal. It's no slouch without the
bottle. Set up for nitrous, but not using it, it's still run 7.48 @ 92 in the
1/8, and 11.91 @ 113 in the 1/4. (It never got run much at the 1/4 off the
bottle... just a few runs) I don't get to the track much, and that's usually
1/8 mile.
The stick shift also helps streetablilty. To get the most out of my car with
an autotragic, it would need an 8" converter. This would be a major pain in the
butt on the street... and the street is where this car gets its most use. It
sees the road every weekend when the weather is good.
It's down right now, awaiting a new engine. The 289 headed unit lasted many
years, but finally wore out. (I had to pick the nitrous up from 150 to 200 a
few years ago to 'adjust' for wear) The new bullet should be a little hotter,
and will hopefully run just as good or better than the old one. It's taking
longer than I'd like... Weird obstacles, along with three kids age 5 and under
and tightened finances tend to slow things down a bit...
Lower compression + nitrous + stickshift = one extremely fun street car.
Hey, I admit it's not a 'daily driver', but if it was... it wouldn't be my
'toy'. It's just the ultimate 3" exhausted, nitroused, stickshift stress
reliever. Backing it out of the garage for a blast around the local roads
makes me feel all better and relaxed every time.
http://www.bacomatic.org/galle...ith_nitrous.JPG.html
That's a TRW L2379F forged flat top piston as used in a Pantera 351C.
The engine had closed chamber iron 4V heads, a Holley Strip Dominator
intake, a big Ultradyne solid flat tappet cam and was in the 490 HP
region without the nitrous. The nitrous unit was set up to add 250 HP.
When the engine was disassembled, the skirts fell off 6 of the 8 pistons.
While the engine was assembled, they were contained by the cylinder bore.
Oddly enough, the engine didn't make much noise. If you flip the pistons
upside down, there's a sharp edge stress riser where they cracked. FWIW,
L2379F pistons are available but are a different design from the originals.
If you get serious about nitrous, google up Mike Burch (a.k.a. n2omike).
He runs a 302-powered nitrous equipped '66 Mustang with home ported 289
heads. Nothing at all fancy but a load of nitrous and runs 10.63 sec @
129.3 mph in 1/4 mile. Some nitrous tips from Mike are below.
Dan Jones
**************************************************************************
Before you start, make sure to have a bottle heater and pressure gauge,
along with a fuel pressure gauge and regulator for the nitrous enrichment.
A good ignition system is also mandatory... one that doesn't keep advancing
the timing to the moon as the engine revs. It should STOP at around 36
degrees total. (with the nitrous off) Check it!!!!!! Wild advance KILLS
nitroused engines... Factory distributors are really bad about this.
Mostly geared to a carb system, but applies to all.... Here Goes!!!
Now that we've got the juice, how do we have fun with it?
Well first off, you don't want to get anxious and hurt your engine... Once the
system is properly installed, check to be sure its fuel enrichment is working
properly. Turn the nitrous bottle off, arm the system, and with the revs around
3000 rpm, tap the button. The engine should fall on it's face. It should be
about like hitting a kill button.
Now that we know it works (the engine is getting enrichment fuel). Let's see
what other items are necessary...
-COLDER spark plugs! Do NOT use Split Fires! For the street, use the coldest
non racing plug you can find... especially if you might have to use the
system with pump gas.
-A bottle heater and pressure gauge! You MUST know what your bottle pressure
is to get consistent results! The gauge tells you the pressure, the heater
allows you to control it. Keep it around 900 psi for best performance.
-Fuel... Use the BEST you can find! Detonation on nitrous can lead to some VERY
un-pretty things! Straight pump gas should not be used on systems over 125hp
on a 302. These engines with their 10 7/16" head bolts are prime game for
blown head gaskets if everything isn't right. A little detonation goes a
loong way on these motors...
Make sure you have a good ignition system with good wires.
**** Now that you are set up, how is it tuned???????? ****
First is timing. The timing NEEDS to be retarded about 3 degrees for every
50hp of nitrous boost. If you don't, it's bye-bye head gaskets, or worse! You
need to go with the upper end of this scale when pump gas is used (even if you
add octane booster). Just DO IT!!!!! I use MSD's Multi-Step Retard to do this
automatically anytime the nitrous is engaged. If you are in the market for an
ignition system, The MSD Digital 6 Plus costs $279, has a timing retard, a two
step rev limiter, plus is adjusted by little dials. (instead of chips)
******** FUEL SYSTEM ********
To start, make SURE your fuel system is able to maintain full fuel pressure at
full throttle high rpm with the nitrous engaged! It's better to be safe than
sorry here. I've seen cars break into the 10's with a single Mallory 140 or
Holley Blue pump, but wouldn't really recommend it. I use two Mallory 140's on
my car. One for the engine, the other for the nitrous.
******** FUEL PRESSURE ********
If the fuel pressure is too high, the car will exhale a bunch of black smoke
out the exhaust, and will not run anywhere near its potential. It will feel
very lazy (well, for nitrous). We want to lean it out, just not toooo far.
My buddy's 2V 351C Mach I went from 9.00 to 8.50 in the 1/8, just from lowering
the fuel pressure!
Start with the smallest hp jets, with the fuel pressure turned up extra high.
This will ensure an extra margin of safety. With the tranny in neutral (park),
bring the revs up to 3000 and tap the button. The revs should jump up a bit.
Probably not super crisp or fast... just kind of a 'VROOOOM'. Do this with the
bottle pressure at its operating range. (850-950 psi)
If it hits EXTRA hard, like BAM! You are probably a bit lean, and need to
increase the fuel pressure.
We can now start to decrease the fuel pressure.... Do this with the car in
neutral. Starting with the pressure high, we are going to be tapping the
button at 3000 rpm as we gradually decrease the fuel pressure.
As the fuel pressure is lowered, the engine will start to respond with
increasing aggressiveness. The VROOOOOM will start to turn into a BANG! When it
BEGINS to get pretty crisp, it's time for a road test!
At full throttle around 3500 rpm, hit the button and hold it for 3-4 seconds.
The car should respond in a positive manner. :-) As you let off the button,
kill the engine, coast to a stop, and check the plugs. They should look clean,
but have NO specks on the porcelain. If they do, it's aluminum from the
pistons, and the fuel pressure needs to be increased. Chances are, at this
point it will still be a little rich, and you will find no specks.
Decrease the fuel pressure a little at a time while making the above test. As
soon as you begin to see ANY specks on the plugs, raise the fuel pressure a
half pound or so, and you should be close to optimum for that hp level. If you
want to try other jets, you need to go through this same testing procedure
again. Start rich, and work your way down.
You will be **AMAZED** at how much better a nitrous system works once the fuel
pressure has been optimized!
**** Other things that help optimize a nitrous equipped car ****
- A good exhaust. BIGGER is BETTER! 3" pipe and mandrel bends rule in nitrous
applications!
- Proper camshaft. A lobe separation around 110 deg is a good compromise on a
carbed street engine. Some extra exhaust duration is also a plus. 8-12 extra
degrees is good. To maximize nitrous performance, go to 112. 114 on an EFI car.
- Compression. Low compression makes tuning a lot more forgiving. Make the
same mistake with both a high and low compression engine, and your chances
of living through it are MUCH better with the lower compression.
If an engine is a little low on compression anyway, (5.0 with a cam for
example) nitrous can bring in a SERIOUS wake-up call!
The weak link with 289/302's is the fact that they only have 10 measly 7/16"
head bolts.
351W's have 10 beefy 1/2" bolts, so they hold very tightly. SBC's have
seventeen 7/16" bolts.
If you plan on very much nitrous at all, you'll need to be sure the engine
has top quality gaskets and ARP bolts or studs. It will also need to have
good fuel and the timing will have to be kept in check, or you'll be changing
head gaskets.
To be safe, I wouldn't be using more than 100hp without all the above. Any
above that, and you'd better have race gas in the tank as well.
Many people get away with more, but their systems are running extra rich and
aren't tuned to make max power.
The safest bet is to use two pumps. A high performance mechanical can be used
to feed the engine, then an electric one can be used for the nitrous
enrichment. I like the Mallory 140, but it's fairly expensive now. A holley
blue should also work.
The billet distributer is an EXCELLENT investment. It will keep that wild
advance under control. It comes with really heavy springs installed from the
factory, so those will have to be changed to the lighter one for about any
application.
I like the new Edelbrock kits. They are very good quality. 100hp is a good
limit to stick with. That 100hp will feel really strong. You won't feel that
much difference stepping it up to 150 from there. Don't forget to pull 3
degrees out for every 50hp. You'll want to start around 36 degrees total (with
the engine revved up) then retard it to 30 with a 100hp shot.
Nitrous follows the rule of diminishing returns... You get a LOT more out of
that first 100hp than the next 100. Don't get greedy... unless you enjoy
changing head gaskets.
When using an electric fuel pump for the nitrous enrichment, it's a good idea
to wire it up to the 'arming' switch. This way, anytime the system is armed,
the fuel pump gets turned on automatically. (forgetting to turn the pump on is
a bad thing.
You can take the distributer apart and make a 'stop' that will keep it from
advancing past a certain point, but a MSD distributer @ around $160 is a really
good buy. A good fuel system is a good investment as well. Messing with the
stock unit involves a lot of trial and error...
I would recommend using your nitrous money to buy these items, get the engine
tuned in and running well... then invest in a nitrous system. Haste makes
waste. Do it right the first time, or you'll just end up having to do it again.
You might get by with a 50-75hp shot as it sits (except for at least a high
performance fuel pump teed off to the nitrous solonoid) but my advice is to
wait and do it right. You NEED to be able to control the fuel pressure and
timing. If you do go forward anyway, be sure to retard the timing by turning
the distributer before any nitrous blasts.
It weighs in at 3300lbs w/driver, has owner ported 289 heads, factory cast
crank, factory 289 rods, TRW pistons... and runs on 93 octane pump gas. The
trans is a stone stock toploader, and the car still rides on it's stock
suspension. The front has had it's sway bar removed, but still has the stock V8
springs. The rear consists of leaf springs and slapper bars.
You could point the car anywhere you wanted, and drive it there no problem. In
this state of tune, it's been driven 100 miles each way in 90+ degree heat to
cruise ins.
The secret is building the car for nitrous use. Nitrous doesn't need much
compression ratio, so the car can be built to run on 93 octane. It runs great
on the street, but come race time... replace the pump fuel with race gas, turn
the bottle on... and it turns into an animal. It's no slouch without the
bottle. Set up for nitrous, but not using it, it's still run 7.48 @ 92 in the
1/8, and 11.91 @ 113 in the 1/4. (It never got run much at the 1/4 off the
bottle... just a few runs) I don't get to the track much, and that's usually
1/8 mile.
The stick shift also helps streetablilty. To get the most out of my car with
an autotragic, it would need an 8" converter. This would be a major pain in the
butt on the street... and the street is where this car gets its most use. It
sees the road every weekend when the weather is good.
It's down right now, awaiting a new engine. The 289 headed unit lasted many
years, but finally wore out. (I had to pick the nitrous up from 150 to 200 a
few years ago to 'adjust' for wear) The new bullet should be a little hotter,
and will hopefully run just as good or better than the old one. It's taking
longer than I'd like... Weird obstacles, along with three kids age 5 and under
and tightened finances tend to slow things down a bit...
Lower compression + nitrous + stickshift = one extremely fun street car.
Hey, I admit it's not a 'daily driver', but if it was... it wouldn't be my
'toy'. It's just the ultimate 3" exhausted, nitroused, stickshift stress
reliever. Backing it out of the garage for a blast around the local roads
makes me feel all better and relaxed every time.
WOW! I can see nitrous got more complicated since fiddling with it 25 years ago. Here's what I did, being a simple guy. I deliberately gave it too much fuel, timed a run, read the plugs. Then a little less fuel, timed a run, read the plugs. It became faster and faster and as long as the plugs looked normal, I kept going. My first system, a fully adjustable one bought in Sweden, reduced my ETA by 1.4 seconds.