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There are two series of hazard switch and mostly they spontaneously fail open and will not turn off. This seems to be due to constant spring pressure inside distorting the plastic body over decades. Same thing happens to OEM seat belt buckles. If you shove the button in too far and pin it with a toothpick, it deletes the brake lights. A few owners have 'fixed' their switches by adding a worm-drive hose clamp around the body to squeeze it back in, which works fine.

When mine failed, I took my Series 1 switch apart and shimmed the actuator with a strip cut from a Gary Hall business card!  Some hazard switches for FIATs and Alfas interchange but the wire numbers molded into the switch backs vary, so its possible to mis-wire them. The red button unscrews and inside is a garden-variety 3-watt light bulb, replaceable at any Autozone. All this is in a POCA Newsletter- with photos- from decades ago when I fixed mine.

The brake lights have nothing to do with the hazard switch.  They are completely separate from the hazard switch and will continue to work even with the hazard switch removed.

A temporary fix would be to disconnect the hazard switch at the nylon connector located near the hazard switch.  Fabricate a short jumper wire and connect it to the nylon connector pins that have the RED and the YELLOW wires.  This will allow you to drive the car and have functioning turn signals.


Haz Sw Jumper


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  • Haz Sw Jumper

BMW 2002 is def CORRECT, but believe 1502 and 2002 ti and 2002tii had the same thing..

my part was a 2002 part EXACT match - had the car but unfort I sold it, was my student "BOMBER" 100 HP in the mid 80th woow..since then I have Beemers now old E39 540 V8 (E39) and my E30 325/6 strait convert....prices are going up like crazy on this cars....what can I say..they are good..


Last edited by matg

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