No spark

Maybe reseat the ground wire(s) for the MSD Ignition system.

Check grounding to the engine

I installed 2 extra woven grounding  straps. One at the end of the tranny and a big one from the starter bolt to the engine mount. I drove it for 600 miles with no hick ups and now this.

...Let's see if I have this Right. You say you have spark AT The Distributor...But NOT FROM the Distributor, TO the PLugs. Inside the Distributor CAP, and Centered, you'll find the Center Contact is a Round Spring-Loaded Graphite PIN. This pin makes contact with, and transfers the Sparks to the Rotor, which then, must be 'Distributed' to the 8 Plugs.

...I have personally found these Graphite pins Broken-Off!! The broken pin is NOT easily seen, unless you are looking for it!

If the Contact is Not damaged when You Inspect it, Check the Cap (All 9 Contacts, Outside to Inside) and Rotor for Continuity, and Check the OHM's Resistance of Each. Also Plug and Coil, High Tension Wires! This will tell All of Us Something.

Good-Luck!

MJ

...OR, Maybe Your Pantera just doesn't want to be Sold!! Gremlins or a Spirit. LOL

Odd there is spark to the distributor but not from it. I'm with Marlin. Pull the distributor cap and rotor and inspect them. Bad distributor pickup?

Got it figured out. The 6AL requires a minimum of 10 volts for the trigger wire, I had 10.18 volts during engaging the starter, apparently that is not good enough to satisfy the box. After pulling the distributor out and manual spinning it while hooked up to see it had spark and getting the crap shocked out of me and testing another distributor out of a Mopar the same way with both working like they should was puzzling. The car would die periodically when running the A/C and the radiator  cooling fans and would sometimes would not start after driving and letting it sit for about an hour. I hooked up a extra battery directly to the box and fired right up. I have a group 27 die hard with 750 cranking amps, it seams that should be good enough to take care of this car's electrical needs. I have become disenchanted with the 6AL box, it's so picking finicky. I don't know what the minimum voltage a ready to run MSD distributor needs but it would be less stuff to deal with. Is anybody running a old school dual point? Maybe more simple is more better.        

I'm sure other will chime in (looking at you panteradoug) with horror stories about MSD systems. I don't know about any dual point users but there are several who swear by the old DuraSpark system. I switched from an Accel Unilite to a Pertronix distributor. Dpug will tell you to look at the Pantera Electronics ignition control system.

I have recently used a Pertronix distributor, a full MSD system, and the new Progression Ignition distributor.  They are all good, but my favorite by far is Progression Ignition.  It is self contained and you set its curve (both mechanical and vacuum) on your phone.  Also stores multiple curves and has a rev limiter, easy starting via advance retard, anti-theft mode, and various gauges (speedometer, tach, vacuum, and real time advance) that display on your phone.  It is easy to setup and use.  All for $529.

Also, none of the distributors described above will work if there are low voltage issues.  They all need a healthy battery and charging system.  The original points based systems might be more forgiving.

@Donny Dotson posted:

Got it figured out. The 6AL requires a minimum of 10 volts for the trigger wire, I had 10.18 volts during engaging the starter, apparently that is not good enough to satisfy the box. After pulling the distributor out and manual spinning it while hooked up to see it had spark and getting the crap shocked out of me and testing another distributor out of a Mopar the same way with both working like they should was puzzling. The car would die periodically when running the A/C and the radiator  cooling fans and would sometimes would not start after driving and letting it sit for about an hour. I hooked up a extra battery directly to the box and fired right up. I have a group 27 die hard with 750 cranking amps, it seams that should be good enough to take care of this car's electrical needs. I have become disenchanted with the 6AL box, it's so picking finicky. I don't know what the minimum voltage a ready to run MSD distributor needs but it would be less stuff to deal with. Is anybody running a old school dual point? Maybe more simple is more better.        

I ran a Pertronix with a Pertronix Coil for over 12 Years without a Problem. I think the Part # was 1281-D? I couldn't this Part # on their site, maybe they changed things? There is a #1281 but back when I get mine, the # was 1281-D for Dual Points Dist.  Good Luck.

"Is anybody running a old school dual point? Maybe more simple is more better."  "The original points based systems might be more forgiving."

I converted my iginition system back to 1972-stock with dual points and I am really happy with that. In my opinion on motor-vehicles no semi-conductor devices are needed. O.K. I make an exception with the radio and the alternator

Robert

If you have spark into the cap that concludes the primary igniton system. Now on to the secondary ignition system. There you will find the problem.

Hello, the issue was voltage drop below 10.2 volts at the trigger wire when cranking on the starter causing the 6AL to not operate but, when spinning the distributor by hand out of the engine with the key in the run position sparked like a MOFO to the plugs. Running the 30 amp circuit to the dual cooling fans, A/C condenser, blower motor and lights was to much draw. When I install my new non electronic distributor today I will check the out put on my alternator. This was a tough nut to crack and hopefully this will help someone in the future because I thought as  well as everyone else this was a loose wire, bad connection or a grounding issue, I learn something new every day. I have a brand new 6AL, 8560 MSD ( I think that is the model #) distributor with 8MM wires (like new) and a 6A box with 1,900 miles on it for sale at a very reasonable price if anybody is interested.

Maybe you're just idling a bit too slow and the alternator is not charging enough to maintain the voltage with a dodgy battery? Perhaps try increasing the idle rpms a bit. Do you have an amp meter still in the car, is it showing a discharge scenario at idle? Cheers, Tim.

Donny,

Do you still have a ballast resistor installed in the vehicle?
IIRC, there should be no resistor with the MSD ignition system....

NO