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Of value to anybody

noquarternoquarterMember
Out of respect for my fellow DeTomaso owners, so far I've never thrown anything out that I removed from my DeTomaso, working or not. But the pile is getting too high, I have to clean out the garage. So what parts are of use to anybody else? Example: orig front caliper and rotors, rear calipers? Cleveland block bored 0.040"? Is there anything that I would normally discard that I shouldn't?
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P pvanMember
If you are hanging on to it for yourself for just in case or to pass along to the next owner, it really has no impact on the community. If you are doing so in case someone needs something, any saved part (used or repairable) could potentially be something someone needs who wants to keep their vehicle stock or is a part that isn't being reproduced.
joulesjoules"Racing is Life, anything before or after is just waiting" - Steve McQueen
Mikael,

As the saying goes "One mans junk is another mans treasure". With rising values more project cars with major parts missing are coming out of hiding, plus there are the owners who now want to revert to stock to maximize perceived value. Thus my personal opinion is that there is value in many of the take off parts you have, notwithstanding they are located in Europe and shipping back to the USA has a cost.

The calipers I see on eBay and get sold regularly, rotors perhaps not worth the shipping cost and a 0.040 over block is a grenade in the making!

Julian
rockyrockyMember
quote:
rear calipers


PanteraDoug was looking for a set of stock rear calipers a while back.... IIRC

In my opinion there is nothing wrong with the stock fronts (a little heavy, maybe).

The whole set of brake parts you've got would be great for anyone with 2/3rds of a car that is trying to bring it back to life.

Rocky
panteradougpanteradougMember
I don't remember that about calipers right now. The fronts are little dinky things. They take up hardly any room at all.



I have actually seen 427 Ford blocks with eight sleeves in them to bring them back to standard bore. That's caused by the rarity and desirability of them.

The people who do that claim that it actually strengthens the block itself?

Therefore I wouldn't be so quick to dump the block as a result. Particularly if it's a good date code for a Pantera.

The rotors were thin to begin with. In some cases one cut on the rotors, the first put them on the design limits.

What the solution to them in the future is unknown. Even so, I'm not sure I want to dump those either yet.
George PGeorge PAdmin.
quote:


Originally posted by Joules:

... I may be full of crap but I had always heard you could not sleeve two adjacent cylinders on a 351C ...



Depends upon the type of sleeve.

There are gaps between each cylinder in the water jacket. The cylinder walls are nominally 0.160" thick. A block that has been bored 0.040 oversize still has cylinder walls that are nominally 0.140 thick. The cylinder walls may be too thin to handle thrust and combustion pressure, but the block's structural integrity is not in question at that point. If I can dry sleeve one cylinder, I can dry sleeve all eight. A 0.040 oversize block having no other issues would be a wonderful candidate for such machine work. The sleeves are much higher in quality and strength than the original casting. The resultant block would be much better in terms of cylinder wall strength and cylinder wall wear resistance than the original block.

However, installing wet sleeves, which means removal of the cast cylinders in total, does indeed weaken the structure of the block and is a completely different circumstance.

I hope all this makes sense, or perhaps it will give the curious something to investigate. There are some wonderful dry sleeves on the market.
noquarternoquarterMember
Brakes, orig 4 calipers and front discs. Discs looked like new, 20.1mm width. Help me find a value for these even if you don't want it please

Also booster, but frankly I don't remember if it works. I think I took it off in working condition because I needed a new master and Mike Drew found me a brand new master/booster combination

Orig rear lid shocks, for the originality fan. They're too weak, but can they be repaired?

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noquarternoquarterMember
Cleveland 351, bored 0.040. IMHO opinion there are plenty of miles left in that block with a new set of internals, the ridge at the top is almost nonexistent. But since I wanted a stroker kit and the Longchamp sees plenty of miles per year, I decided not to use it.

Like the other parts, if no buyer/collector steps up, will be given to the junkyard. Frowner

Thanks for input

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Last edited by noquarter
panteradougpanteradougMember
quote:
Originally posted by George P:
quote:


Originally posted by Joules:

... I may be full of crap but I had always heard you could not sleeve two adjacent cylinders on a 351C ...



Depends upon the type of sleeve.

There are gaps between each cylinder in the water jacket. The cylinder walls are nominally 0.160" thick. A block that has been bored 0.040 oversize still has cylinder walls that are nominally 0.140 thick. The cylinder walls may be too thin to handle thrust and combustion pressure, but the block's structural integrity is not in question at that point. If I can dry sleeve one cylinder, I can dry sleeve all eight. A 0.040 oversize block having no other issues would be a wonderful candidate for such machine work. The sleeves are much higher in quality and strength than the original casting. The resultant block would be much better in terms of cylinder wall strength and cylinder wall wear resistance than the original block.

However, installing wet sleeves, which means removal of the cast cylinders in total, does indeed weaken the structure of the block and is a completely different circumstance.

I hope all this makes sense, or perhaps it will give the curious something to investigate. There are some wonderful dry sleeves on the market.


By comparison to medicine, this is child's play.

If you are a sixty something year old surgeon, you can not procede on forty year old technology. Who cares with a machinest?

This is a relatively small advancement in technology. One must question a machinest that says 8 sleeves can't be done, when apparently this has been getting done for at least ten years.

Find another machinist. As a customer you MUST have more then a basic knowledge.

You just can't pick up Hot Rod magazine, say I want to build an all "unobtanium" 5000 cubic inch engine like on the cover and have not a clue on how it gets done.

8 sleeved blocks have been around for a number of years. I don't know how to do it. I do know how to find a machinist that does.

I personally wouldn't junk that block.
timsterentimsterenMember
quote:
Originally posted by No Quarter:
OK, cleaned the garage and attic of DeTomaso parts, have thrown out guaranteed worthless stuff. What's left, please make an offer, bear in mind freight from Denmark will be added. If no offer received, my Danish/Swedish/Australian friend Tim will be allowed to pickup what he wants, the rest will be scrapped.


Hi Mikael,
great :-) They don't call me a Magpie for nothing! Let me know if there is anything left and I will come past. If it is just goint to be thrown out then all of it is of interest to me, but it is great if the parts go to folks that need them.
I am intrigued by the Longchamp 'holley' intake manifold - is it a square bore without the spacer plate and what date / part number is it?

Cheers Tim
noquarternoquarterMember
quote:
I am intrigued by the Longchamp 'holley' intake manifold - is it a square bore without the spacer plate and what date / part number is it?

Frankly I can't remember if there even was a spacer or if I bought it. The manifold has the Ford Motorcraft holes and the Holley squarebore. If you think that's a mismatch, consider this, the intake manifold is 4V and the heads were 2V, talk about restrictions to flow there they meet!

Date/number, don't know, it's in the attic, too tired now...:-)
noquarternoquarterMember
quote:
I am intrigued by the Longchamp 'holley' intake manifold - is it a square bore without the spacer plate and what date / part number is it?

Strangely I found no numbers on the Longchamp intake in the usual place. That could mean that it's not a Ford US part? Aussie maybe, from 1978 when Ford US had killed the Cleveland. It's 4V and for Motorcraft carb.
bosswrenchbosswrenchMember
As far as boring & sleeving, its not the cylinders that may cause trouble but the bottoms where they intersect the main bearing webs. Which are weak even before being cut open. Pumped up 351-Cs have split horizontally from high combustion pressures. Thats why drag racers used furnace brazing when they sleeved more than one cylinder per side. And the furnace heat then caused every surface in the engine to need re-machining. This was all before aftermarket blocks came available. Will be interested in your results.
panteradougpanteradougMember
quote:
Originally posted by Bosswrench:
As far as boring & sleeving, its not the cylinders that may cause trouble but the bottoms where they intersect the main bearing webs. Which are weak even before being cut open. Pumped up 351-Cs have split horizontally from high combustion pressures. Thats why drag racers used furnace brazing when they sleeved more than one cylinder per side. And the furnace heat then caused every surface in the engine to need re-machining. This was all before aftermarket blocks came available. Will be interested in your results.


Whose results? I take a pitcher of Cosmo's and by the time I get to the third, I don't think about this any more. Maybe more correctly, unable to think about it anymore?

Those are acceptable results for me. Wink
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