Paint codes/formulas

 Based on the experience of other owners prior to you, 45-year-old paint codes for a paint formula that used components no longer produced are just about worthless even if you can find the correct code. 

And if you were able to get a perfect match to the original paint code, the 45-year-old paint on your car no longer has the same tone as the original paint.

IMHO,  getting a quality shop or a paint supplier to take a reading of your current paint and then mixing samples to match will be easier and provide a better product than spending time chasing down old paint codes. 

Larry 

Thank you Larry I agree!

Should I use single stage enamel?

It might be better match than basecoat/clearcoat

The color won't be a better match but the finish is different because it is a different system. I'm not sure that acrylic enamel is still available. It is not easy to apply without orange peel and runs. It's an entirely different approach.

It can be polished out to resemble two stage but the issue is that if you want to go that route, you can't control the thickness of the paint on the high points of the sheet metal and it is very easy to sand through.

i say sand through because that is what you do to polish it. You work the sanding up to at least 2500 grit if not 3000.Even if you get the paint, the original systems were force air dried going through a heat tunnel.

There was no hardener used in the paint.

The last enamel system that I used required a hardener. This is the bad system. The curing process produces potasium cyanide like used for executions in the "gas chamber".  Forget about using it where the paint shops are regulated. That won't happen.

You need to be out in an area where there are no nearby neighbors and where the fumes won't execute anyone.

Current two stages are much safer and more durable for a longer time.

There really are no shops set up for the enamel system. If you could find one it's going to be three days drive from nowhere and they will probably charge you double or triple just because.

Additionally, I know that there are NO groups judging Panteras for Concouse accuracy in the US that have any kind of jurisdiction. So when you see the term Concourse restoration advertised with a Pantera for sale, it is only a salesman's promotional abuse of the term.

I know that the Mustang, Shelby and Cobra people do not give any points at all for using the original paint systems. Any paint system is ok so why bother if you think you even get Brownie Points for using enamel?

Excellent points Doug.

I truly appreciate these great comments

This is what I am looking to touch up.

It had been badly touched up years ago.

Remainder of car is near perfect on a original paint car!

I understand but enamel is an sob to touch up. It just doesn't like it. It does not feather edge well and leaves fisheyes all over the place.

Since it doesn't flash up like other systems, it tends to run.

That color probably is best to blend.

Even if you had an entire can of brand new factory mixed paint you will find that often (not always) that the color on the roof is not the same as on the rocker panels. You always need to blend it as you go down lower.

You are going to get a lot of grumbling from the paint shop and many just won't want the work.

Jon Haas's Pantera is white and I know he hit a deer or something and bent a fender. PM him at Pantera-electonics and ask him what the shop did with the paint. He might even have a pint of it left over.?

Great

Would you have contact info for John Haas?

jhmotorwerke@gmail.com

Thank you kind sir!!👍

The biggest problem with trying to touch up the car is that the new paint that is out there might just not like to play well with what is on the car. If you do not seal what is on the car it  could probably bleed thru. Bring it to a paint supplier they can shoot it with a camera and most will even do a spray out or 2 on a card. I am finishing up my 3 yr resto on a early 72 that was black but was a orig white car. I did 7 -10 spray cards to try and match the orig white and not a shot in hell. If you have not tried any paint correction I would do that first as you will probably see the color brighten up but use a paint meter 1ft so you know what the thickness is of the paint so you know what you have to work with.

Besides what was posted here, be realistic: it could be 50 years since the car was originally panted and ALL paints will fade or change color in less time than that. So as Larry said, most internet-sourced paint-shade matching is a waste of time for touch up. Compare your exterior color with what was protected all this time behind the dash. inside the headlight buckets or on the floor- it is always a little different.