Pantera Front Lift Bar and Load Spreader

Nice idea and work! I will steal this one, since I´ve had the same concerns when lifting the front. Thanks

I like your idea better than the 2 x6 piece of wood I've been using. Good idea.

@jag13cat posted:

I like your idea better than the 2 x6 piece of wood I've been using.

Thanks for the compliments.

The 2x6 wood beam was my previous approach, but the new "load spreader" design also gives more room to get the jack under there, because of the recesses cut into the lifting beam.

It's tough with these really cool cars that are so low to the ground!

Nice idea, but looks like you then put a jack stand under the sway bar? 

Chuck nice idea, well as above using a wood beam. My issue is the GTS is so low in front (and rear) that I need to drive it first on a 2 inch thick platform and then get the wood beam etc in place.

No - sorry the picture makes it look like that.  I don't think that would be a good idea.

There are gussets (the center sway bar mounts) that are welded to the outside of the frame and to the suspension mount.  These mounts are welded on both sides, and on the top.  They are pretty stout.  The top of the jackstands fit right into the gussets (center sway bar mounts) for very secure position locating.

I use these as secure, flat mounts for the top of my jackstands - of course the user has to decide how to support their own car.  But if you go look at how the sway bar mounts are constructed - you will see that they are pretty stout.

This picture tries to show the jackstand positioning, and it shows the mount from the top.  The jackstand sits under the plate that swaybar mount is attached to, and up against the frame on both sides.

Another, permanent approach is to treat the front crossmember like many owners have traditionally treated the rear crossmember - Weld in a suitable steel bar to prevent the collapsing of the pinch weld. 

The photo is a bit unclear as everything is black undercoating or black paint. You are looking at the right hand chassis triangular corner gusset mentioned by Rocky, at the RH rear of the valance. The Allen head bolts are anchor bolts for the chassis brace sold by Larry Stock at Pantera parts connection.

The arrow is pointing to the right hand edge of the bar stock welded to the backside of the valance pinch weld.

it is approximately 10” x 3/4”, 1/4” thick  

Larry 

It took me a bit to figure out your approach (my fault, not yours), but basically what you did was strengthen the bottom of the front valence with the bar, right?

And as the bar sits on the gussets - so you can also use it as a jacking point?

Good idea - keeps that valence straight and really strengthens it.

I was just going to permanently weld the bar across the frame, but my body guy talked me out of it.  They didn't want to weld on the frame, and it would have reduced ground clearance by about 3/4"....

@rocky posted:

It took me a bit to figure out your approach (my fault, not yours), but basically what you did was strengthen the bottom of the front valence with the bar, right?

correct. As you noted, outboard ends are welded to the triangular gussets and bar is welded to bottom of valance pinch weld. 

Larry

Damn that looks like a nice set up. I just wonder how much weight that tube will take before it collapses. My car has a bottom belly so I can't jack on the sides and have just been using two jacks on the frame rails in the front. Seems like yours raised no problem though.

Hi Jan -

That tube is about 1/4” thick steel....  I have no doubt that it would successfully support the weight of the entire car, and more.

Since the bar sits solidly on the frame, and on the gussets, it protects those pinch welds, and won’t crush anything underneath the car.

I’m not sure if it would work in your situation or not, but you might check it out next time you get your car on a lift, or jacked up.

Great Idea. 

I have been using a 4"* 5/8" flat bar over the floor jack to bridge the chassis .The flat bar flexes but will take it but its always a bit of a drama..

Lifting with the flat bar option is a bit dodgy because you only  have the steel on steel as slip restraint.  I like this allot better because there is some lateral restraint if it moves laterally.  The front is very difficult to jack. The beast is running 13 inch rims on the front so its lowww.  Very difficult to get the  jack in .  I will have to check that the remaining room is enough for the slotted bar to fit above the jack. If there is I will make one up tomorrow.

Next stop  is to dig a pit in the garage floor...! 

@rocky posted:

Hi Jan -

That tube is about 1/4” thick steel....  I have no doubt that it would successfully support the weight of the entire car, and more.

Since the bar sits solidly on the frame, and on the gussets, it protects those pinch welds, and won’t crush anything underneath the car.

I’m not sure if it would work in your situation or not, but you might check it out next time you get your car on a lift, or jacked up.

Very good, thanks. Although I have a belly pan, the front of the car is still open foreword of the front firewall so your set up would work on my car too. I hardly have a need to jack it up but its more convenient than using two jacks. By the way I see you have a 1.5 ton jack and I was thinking of getting one from Harbor Freight but wasn't sure if that was strong enough for the rear of the car (I currently have an old 3 ton, but its a bit tall). I like that 1.5 you have since it is low and doesn't weigh that much either, easy to move around for an old fart.