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quote:
That t/o bearing in my previous post would be for a three finger pressure plate, not for a diaphragm pressure plate.

Can you tell the difference between a diaphram and 3-finger TO bearing just by looking at it?
I went from a diaphram to a 3-finger last year and didn't change the bearing. It's got me worried now.
I have a spare bearing part #1625-12
Any idea if this is for diaphram or 3 finger? Should I post pic?
Will
Quite right. 20 years ago I posted a suggestion that for GM type straight-finger diaphragm clutches, a radiused-face throwout bearing worked more progressively than a flat-face bearing used for stock Pantera 3-finger clutches. The tip came from Mac Tilton who has built a few racing clutches in his day.

That tip has been picked up, mis-quoted and misunderstood by many, and seems to have a life of its own, far removed from the original intent.
Once and for all: STRAIGHT FINGER diaphragm clutches such as GM sold on its '70-80s cars should use a radiused-face throwout bearing- which was what GM sold with those pressure plates. The sharp angle the straight fingers make with a flat bearing face like the Pantera uses as-stock causes a jerky feel or 'catch' at the clutch pedal as it is pushed in or released.

THIS DOES NOT APPLY TO CENTERFORCE DIAPHRAGM clutches which use bent-finger levers to fix this very problem!
I went up to Pantera Int'l Motors yesterday and spent some time with Jerry talking about T/O
bearings for the Pantera ( among other things ) He showed me the T/O they sell, which is a sealed bearing unit ( lasts forever) and is adjustable for either a 3 finger or diaphram clutch. Since I have a centerforce clutch, all I do is add the 2 spacers that come with the T/O (since the diaphram clutch is shorter on the throw than the 3 finger) and I'm good to go.Hope this helps everyone dealing with clutch issues.
quote:
Originally posted by MARLIN JACK:
Carlsbad, Check-In with Me at: pantera1974@verizon.net and I'll get one of Those Machined up for You! I bought My T.O. Bearing from P.I. Motorsports! They had the One for the '3-Forged Fingers'.

Marlin


Thank you Marlin Jack, I got the bronze Pilot Bushing from you in the mail on saturday, so I could start putting eveything together right away. I really appreciate your quick response and follow through.
It is great to work with professionals like you!!!
Regards, Mike B
A tip for those using a modern constant-contact throwout bearing like was mentioned by the Carlsbad guy: adjust your throwout bearing to just touch the clutch fingers after the car is nice 'n hot. Reason is, when the engine and ZF heat up, clutch clearances change. More contact than 'minimal' on such a throwout bearing will unload some clutch pressure, and it doesn't take too much before you have enough pressure gone to cause clutch slippage.

If the above is done properly, you can get a small extra amount of clutch throw with all-stock parts, helping the ZF synchronizers live a little longer during shifting. But you cannot adjust the clutch per the owners manual with a little free play and still use a constant-contact throwout bearing. The two are mutually exclusive.
FWIW, Marino Perna of Pantera East in FL, the inventor of the long-throw clutch slave, has another order into the place that casts these cylinders, so he should have them back in stock soon. His assemblies are made in stainless steel, by the way. I'd always thought the cylinders were adapted from another manufacturer, but I was wrong; they are purpose-built for the Pantera by Marino.
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