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Hi all. I've been working on my '72 Pantera steadily for two solid years. The goal has always been to have a great street car that will also see casual SCCA autocross competition.

While I am not new to autocrossing, I am new to racing a Pantera. I have addressed all of the Pantera specific racing issues that I know of. Please let me know if I have missed anything.

1. Baffled oil pan w/ pickup to solve the Cleveland oiling issues
2. New cooling system (hi-flow water pump, lay down fluidyne, twin sucker fans)
3. Rebuilt suspension with new bushings and bearings
4. New heavy duty PI half shafts.
5. Koni shocks
6. 1" rear swaybar
7. Hi performance brake pads from PIMotorsports.

I will be adding a roll cage and chassis braces in the near future, but thought that I could make an autocross or two without so that I can note the difference. A new brake system is also an option, but again, I wanted to see how the stock brakes with the PI pads hold up first.

I notice that Pantera Performance sells a "Camber lock kit". I was unaware that the Pantera was in need of such a thing. Is this the case with all cars?

Any thoughts/feedback is greatly appreciated.
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MacMan
Don't forget the heater hose knife valves and that the coolant catch can overflow line needs to be dumping behind the rear wheels ........Most places won't let you on the track without these basics. To augment your fire suit try the new material called CarbonX underwear......better than good stuff and it breaths...but it only comes in Gun Fighter Black.

Regards..............Jersey Doug #6434
Chris,

I thought I'd answer your question about the camber lock.

It's for the upper front ball joints which are mounted in the control arms in such a way so as to allow horizontal sliding adjustment (left to right). This is the manufacturer's provision for adjusting camber. The camber adjustment is secured by the clamping force of 2 bolts.

Apparently there have been instances in which the camber adjustment has shifted on an owner when smacking something with the front wheel. So a vendor has manufactured this plate with an adjusting screw so that there is more than just the clamping force of 2 bolts securing the camber adjustment. It also looks to me that the camber lock would make fine adjustments in camber much easier to perform.

I would advise you to run without it until you discover you need it. A better investment at this time would be a good camber/caster gage, such as the one sold by Longacre. This will allow you to monitor your settings & adjust them at track side. Other track side tools for maintaining the tires are toe plates, a tire pyrometer, a good tire pressure gage, a lightweight jack and a portable air compressor. (some guys run dry nitrogen in their tires because this maintains the pressure settings more accurately when the tires heat up)

http://www.longacreracing.com/

You may want to consider cleaning & re-greasing the front wheel bearings, then adjusting them a bit on the snug side (no play). Eventually you'll need to address the rear wheel bearing issue, my advice being to replace the bearings & install billet axles. No need to modify your uprights. You'll want to rebuild the steering rack, replacing the plastic bushing with the bronze replacement, and new, tight, tie rod ends.

I'm sure I don't have to tell you, when it comes to competition, it's tires, tires & tires. Hence my recommendation about the alignment tools.

So good luck, have fun & don't hurt yourself or your bitchen Pantera.

your friend on the PIBB, George

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quote:
Originally posted by QQPursuit:
MacMan
Don't forget the heater hose knife valves and that the coolant catch can overflow line needs to be dumping behind the rear wheels ........Most places won't let you on the track without these basics. To augment your fire suit try the new material called CarbonX underwear......better than good stuff and it breaths...but it only comes in Gun Fighter Black.

Regards..............Jersey Doug #6434


I don't have any heater hoses right now, so that's not an issue. lol But the overflow line is. Sounds like a good idea, on or off the track. I'll take a look at it this weekend. Thanks for the reminder.
One thing to be aware of if you're autocrossing a Pantera for the first time. Your head will be about at the level of the top of the cones. If you're used to driving another car, everything looks very different from a Pantera compared to most other cars. It's very difficult to look ahead and see the course. The lack of power steering and big front tires will surprise you too if you're used to something else. Will you be in a stock class? Vince
Macman....... One other thing I've done for mine (so as to keep stock looking for shows...etc) was to replace the drivers seat track system (which also lowered it) with an aluminum plate. Then for AutoX I swap the Pantera seat for a Corbeau Forza and a 4pt belt system........all in about 5minutes. (because 1st time in AutoX with stock seat and 3pt did squat to keep me in place).

I also went with that because in the regular seat, and wearing a helmet, I'd hit the roof.
Errraa Erraa......MacMan I almost forgot the best pearl of wisdom....Don't forget to bring the cell phone and the AAA "Plus" card. For, what is it, 75 bucks these guys will flat bed you anywhere within a 100 mile radius. Gotta be the best bang for the Street car Racer man's dollar on the Planet. I have not had the need to use it.....but I always carry it with me when I am on the track. Regards....Jersey Doug # 6434 QQPursuit
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